the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

2007 Toyota 4Runner, Viper 4806


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
unclebeansie 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: February 16, 2015
Posted: February 19, 2015 at 1:15 AM / IP Logged  
I'm looking to install a Viper 4806 RS in my 2007 4Runner V6 SE and wanted to confirm all of the connections required before I dive in. I do have quite a bit of experience with wiring and soldering but this will be my first remote starter install.
First off I'd like to keep most of the existing functions of the factory alarm and factory remotes including:
-Lock: one press locks all doors, all 4 signal lights flash once and vehicle beeps once (not the horn)
-Unlock: one press unlocks d/s door, second within 3sec unlocks the rest, all 4 signal lights flash twice and vehicle beeps twice (not the horn)
-Back Window: Roll down back window on rear hatch when button is held down
-Panic: I don't really care about maintaining this function
Regarding the immobilizer bypass module I was thinking about getting the XpressKit PKTX as it comes with the correct firmware already loaded for this Toyota vehicle. Any thoughts on if this is a good unit to go with or not for my application? Other suggestions?
On to the connections, please help me confirm and fill in the blanks/question marks.
Remote Start / Bypass Unit Vehicle
Connection     Colour     Description     Colour     Polarity     Location
H/1     Red     (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT   WHITE/ Blue(50A)    (+)   Ign. Harness
H/2     Black     (-) CHASSIS GROUND      chassis ground       
H/3     Brown     (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT      not used?       
H/4     WHITE/ Brown     LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relay      not used?       
H/5     White     PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY      Green    (+)     D/S Dash 16pp (set viper to +)
H/6     Orange     500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT    not used?  
1     Blue     500mA (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT      Green    (-)     D/S Kick 18pp
2     Empty     NOT USED
3     Green     500mA (-) LOCK OUTPUT      Blue     (-)    D/S Kick 18pp
1     Pink/White     (-) 200mA Ignition 2/Flex OUTPUT      not used?       
2     Blue/White     (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT       To bypass module?       
3     RED / White     (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT      not used?       
4     BLACK / YELLOW     (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT      not used?       
5     Dark Blue     (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT     not used?
6     WHITE/ Black     (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT     not used?
7     WHITE/ Violet     (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT     not used?
8     ORANGE / Black     (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT     not used?
9     Gray     (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO)      not used?       
10     Blue*     FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity)    not used?  
11     WHITE/ Blue     ACTIVATION INPUT      not used?       
12     Violet/White**     TACHOMETER INPUT    BLACK/ White   (ac)     ECM behind glovebox or at data link connector under D/S dash   
13     BLACK/ White***     (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY /PARKING BRAKE INPUT       chassis ground       
14     GREEN/ Black     (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT      not used?       
15     Green**     (-) DOOR INPUT     not used?
16     Empty     NOT USED
17     Pink     (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT     not used?
18     Violet**     (+) DOOR INPUT      not used?       
19     Violet/Black     (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT      not used?       
20     Brown     (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT      is this required to be connected?       
21     Violet / YELLOW     (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT       not used?       
22     Gray/Black     (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT     not used
23     Orange     (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT       not used?       
24     GREEN / WHITE     (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT     not used?
1     RED / Black     (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ACC and starter relays      WHITE/ Blue(50A)      (+)    Ign. Harness
2     Pink/Black     (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY        not used?       
3     Pink/White     (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT      Blue / YELLOW      (+)      Ign. Harness
4     Red     (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ignition 1 relay       WHITE/ Blue(50A)     (+)     Ign. Harness
5     Violet     (+) STARTER OUTPUT    GREEN/ Black    (+)     Ign. Harness
6     Orange     (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT     not required if you don't care about the radio, etc... coming on while remote started?
7     RED / White     (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ignition 2 and flex relays      WHITE/ Blue(50A)     (+)      Ign. Harness
8     Pink     (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT       BLACK/ Red     (+)     Ign. Harness
For the bypass module; obviously the 4pin D2D harness between the 4806 brain and module, then the four wires per PKTX instructions (assuming I get that module):
- Rx
- Tx
- While Running (status): 4806 Aux harness pin2 (Blue/White)?
- Key Sense: GREEN/ YELLOW    (-)    Ign. Harness
Not sure where the back window fits into all of that? Don't suppose trunk release output or one of the aux outputs would work for that given the factory remote/function is having to hold down the button while the window lowers?
Given that the majority of connections are at the ignition harness, are there vehicle specific prefabricated adapters out there that just T into the existing plugs? Minimize the number of factory wires you need to splice into.
Thanks!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 19, 2015 at 1:13 PM / IP Logged  

Remote Start / Bypass Unit   Vehicle

Connection     Colour     Description     Colour     Polarity     Location
H/1     Red     (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT Red (30A)    (+)  @ Ign. Harness
H/2     Black     (-) CHASSIS GROUND        chassis ground       
H/3     Brown     (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT GREEN/ red (-) @ junction connector above gas pedal, gray 12 pin plug, pin 8       
H/4     WHITE/ Brown     LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION   not used  
H/5     White     PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY     Green    (+)     D/S Dash 16pp (set viper to +)
H/6     Orange     500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED            not used
1     Blue     500mA (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT      Green    (-)     D/S Kick 18pp
2     Empty     NOT USED
3     Green     500mA (-) LOCK OUTPUT         Blue      (-)     D/S Kick 18pp
1     Pink/White     (-) 200mA Ignition 2/Flex OUTPUT      not used     
2     Blue/White     (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOG        not used      
3     RED / White     (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT not used       
4     BLACK / YELLOW     (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT   not used     
5     Dark Blue     (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT   to bypass GRW (-)     
6     WHITE/ Black     (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT   not used       
7     WHITE/ Violet     (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT   not used       
8     ORANGE / Black     (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT not used         
9     Gray     (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO)   pink/green (-)  @ driver kick, blue 18 pin plug, pin 6    
10     Blue*     FACTORY HORN INPUT not used         
11     WHITE/ Blue     ACTIVATION INPUT   not used     
12     Violet/White**     TACHOMETER INPUT     BLACK/ White   (ac)   at OBD2 data link connector under D/S dash   
13     BLACK/ White***     (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY    chassis ground       
14     GREEN/ Black     (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM      not used       
15     Green**     (-) DOOR INPUT           not used       
16     Empty       NOT USED
17     Pink     (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT      not used        
18     Violet**     (+) DOOR INPUT not used     
19     Violet/Black     (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT   not used       
20     Brown     (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT   GREEN/ YELLOW (+)  @ brake switch   Mandatory connection   
21     Violet / YELLOW     (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT        not used      
22     Gray/Black     (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT not used
23     Orange     (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT           not used     
24     GREEN / WHITE     (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM not used         
1     RED / Black     (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ACC & starter         WHITE/ Blue(50A)      (+)    Ign. Harness
2     Pink/Black     (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A   not used      
3     Pink/White     (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT          Blue / YELLOW      (+)      Ign. Harness
4     Red     (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ignition 1 relay      WHITE/ Blue(50A)     (+)     Ign. Harness
5     Violet     (+) STARTER OUTPUT      GREEN/ Black    (+)     Ign. Harness
6     Orange     (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT          WHITE/ green  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3
7     RED / White     (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ignition 2     WHITE/ Blue(50A)     (+)      Ign. Harness
8     Pink     (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT       BLACK/ Red     (+)     Ign. Harness
ACC circuit is needed for Heat / AC

For the bypass module; obviously the 4pin D2D harness between the 4806 brain and module, then the four wires per PKTX instructions (assuming I get that module):

- Rx    Pin 4 Pink/Green       ( Pin 3 is empty on this 7 Pin plug )
- Tx    Pin 5 Light GREEN/ Red
- While Running (status): 4806 Aux harness pin 5 (Dark Blue)
- Key Sense:  GREEN/ YELLOW (-)  @ key switch, blue 4 pin plug, pin 2

Soldering is fun!
unclebeansie 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: February 16, 2015
Posted: February 19, 2015 at 10:44 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the reply kreg. A few questions...
1. Is there a reason why you use the Red(30A) for 12VDC constant input on the main harness instead of WHITE/ Blue(50A)?
2. Is the H/3 Horn Honk connection needed? Is the factory beep/chirp when you lock/unlock the doors still maintained?
3. For Status output to the bypass, I read on this post that you're better off going with Blue/White instead of Dark Blue. Does it really matter?
4. Is the hood pin input a mandatory connection? I assume yes, as I see it on the start up diagnostics. Do you know if the hood trigger type is NO or NC for this vehicle?
5. Do you know if it's possible to maintain the back window roll down function of the factory remote (and possibly add roll up function)? Do you need to use a relay with the trunk release output or one of the aux outputs?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 20, 2015 at 4:58 AM / IP Logged  

Answers :

1.  If there are multiple +12V constant sources available at the main ignition switch harness, I like to split / balance the

      R/S systems load.  No sense in possibly overloading a vehicle circuit.

2.  The Horn connection is optional.  While the vehicle has a nice audible output when using the factory remotes, I don't

      believe the Viper's connections to the vehicles lock circuits will trigger it.

3.  Interesting information about the (-) Status Output wire as compared to the (-) 2nd Status Output wire.  You learn

      something new everyday!  I have used the Dark Blue wire with no issues on the few DEI installs I have done.  Nothing
      is mentioned in the last full install guide I have ( 5901 ) and the wires Status output descriptions are the same, but they
      might have changed things on the newer systems.  I am not a big DEI user and have never actually put my dual trace
      o'scope on those outputs but Chris always provides great info.  I chose the more common Dark Blue (-) Status wire
      for the bypass to leave the Blue/White (-) 2nd Status available for its' defroster feature, if you needed it.

4.  According to the info I have, the Factory Hood pin ( if installed ) is a standard N.O. circuit.  It will show chassis ground (-)

      when the hood is open.  The Viper default programming should be OK.  While your Viper 4806 is not an alarm system
      needing a hood pin input for security reasons and the R/S would work without it connected, it is a very important
      safety feature.  If your truck has the factory hood pin, it's an easy connection inside the vehicle.

5.  The factory remotes should continue to work normally, except when the engine is running.  I would use a window

      roll-up module ( like the 529T ) and two of the Vipers' AUX output for the up / down option you want.  I have no info on
      the rear window motor and it's wiring but I'm sure there are other Forum members that can supply it.

Soldering is fun!
unclebeansie 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: February 16, 2015
Posted: February 20, 2015 at 12:00 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks again kreg.
2. With the horn honk output, given this is just a remote starter, do you know if this is solely used for notification honks when unlock/lock is triggered? This doesn't affect the factory alarm sounding the horn does it? What I'm thinking of doing is connecting the factory piezo buzzer to this H/3 horn honk output connection instead of the horn. Think that would work? I just don't want the piezo buzzer becoming the new alarm sound if the alarm is triggered.
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: February 20, 2015 at 5:07 PM / IP Logged  
1. As Kreg mentioned, if you have the ability divide your constant 12v connections. No real benefit besides preventing overload.
2. Horn is only needed for audible confirmation. The factory beep does not stay intact. The viper 4806 sounds the horn on lock, unlock, and start by default. I find this VERY annoying.Changes can be made in programming. IMO It should only notify you on Second lock.
You will not get the signature toyota/lexus "beep" by using the horn wire. No you cannot integrate into it, as the sound is generated by the oem speaker which creates the beep.
If you want the oem sounds, purchase a piezo siren from radioshack- this becomes a stand alone
3. There are 2 status wires, both defaulted are GWR wires. The second status can be changed for rear defrost purposes: aka Rear defogger out. This output can be triggered by aux 1 or under 55degrees automatically
Rear defrost: GREEN/ Red (-) @ Right side of fuse box. Middle Plug Pin 1
4. Hood pin in mandatory. I've always put them in.
5. roll up and down can be integrated into the viper. You need two relays:
Roll down: BLACK/ Blue (+)
Roll up: Yellow/Red (+)
Common: BLACK / YELLOW (+)
Roll down: Short BLACK / YELLOW & BLACK/ Blue @ Right side of fuse box. Middle Plug Pin 8 & 19
Roll Up Short BLACK / YELLOW & Yellow/Red @ Right side of fuse box. Middle Plug Pin 10 & 19
85 - aux down or up
86 - constant 12v fused @ 2 amps
Diode across 85/86 Silver band towards 86
87 - common
30 - down or up
Although the 4806 is NOT an alarm, it has the ability to page you if an intrusion occurs. extra wiring involved.
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
unclebeansie 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: February 16, 2015
Posted: February 21, 2015 at 1:24 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the info Ted.
2. Ya, with a bit more research and confirming it in the service manual and wiring diagrams I have, the piezo here is actually a small speaker given an audio signal from the ECU. Too bad.
Good suggestion; a cheap 12V piezo seems like the way to go. So just connect the piezo (+) to a 12V supply wire and (-) to the horn honk output (H/3)?
3. I'll give the dark blue a try first for status to bypass leaving the 2nd status free to use with defog. So just to confirm the defog functionality...
If I hook up the 2nd status/defog output up to the defog, the defog will automatically come on after 10seconds of being remotely started if the temp. is below 55degF? I don't need to change the option of the feature to latch or pulse do I?
5. Ya, I'll go the two relay route if I decide I want to keep this feature. A lot cheaper than a module.
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: February 21, 2015 at 6:33 AM / IP Logged  
2) correct. a relay might be needed to increase current on the ground.
3) it automatically turns on below 55degrees. changes are required Menu 3 Item 11 Option 3.
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Friday, March 29, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer