Camry 2007 LE, Pkall, Viper 5704v

Hey All, THANKS ahead of time!!! Been slowly tinkering in my car and I guess I haven't done enough research yet. My problem right now is I am unsure if all the wiring has been done correctly, what I mean is I might be missing additional wires attached to the brain. I followed another forums post down to the T, found here: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=136209 Now I understand he is using a idatalink, where as I am using a pkall. I was under the impression that d2d would accomplish the same task regardless of brand but I might be wrong. What additional wires do I need to hook up from the viper's brain? For those TL;DR These are the connections I've made. Main Harness, 6-pin connector 1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT (BLACK (+)      @ DASH FUSEBOX, WHITE 1-PIN PLUG(A), PIN 1) 2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND (FIND A GOOD CHASSIS GROUND; BOLT ON RING TERMINAL ETC) 3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT (CONNECT TO POSITIVE SIDE OF SIREN (RED WIRE) (MOUNT SIREN somewhere by the brake fluid resivor away from moving parts of engine) (BRING THE (-) BLACK WIRE of the SIREN BACK inside the car and mount with above ground connection) 4 WHITE/ BROWN- PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay (NOT USED) 5 WHITE- PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT (Switch the fuse in the Viper control box to (-) setting) (Connect this wire to: BLACK (-)    @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH, WHITE 20-PIN PLUG, PIN 18) 6 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT NOT USED [/B} Door Lock, 3-pin connector 1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT NOT USED due to D2D with idatalink 2 EMPTY NOT USED 3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT NOT USED due to D2D with idatalink Remote Start, 10-pin heavy gauge connector 1 NC No Connection 2 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED 12V ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT (Connect to constant 12V; BLACK (+) @ DASH FUSEBOX, WHITE 1-PIN PLUG(A), PIN 1) 3 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY NOT USED 4 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT Connect to PINK (+)@ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 1 5 RED (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 1 INPUT (Connect to constant 12V; BLACK (+) @ DASH FUSEBOX, WHITE 1-PIN PLUG(A), PIN 1) 6 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) CUT BLUE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 7 Connect the side of this Blue wire that is on the key side (towards where one places key to start) (or the Right side) to this GREEN (+) Starter input. 7 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) Connect this cutted Blue wire (left side) ( or side that goes towards ignition towards engine) to this VIOLET(+) wire. This is the only wire which one has to cut and make separate connections from it(NOTE) 8 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT ( Connect this to WHITE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 2) (NOTE: FROM many above conversations with the fine folks I have decided NOT to place a relay to control this; WISE CHOICE) 9 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87 (Connect to constant 12V; BLACK (+) @ DASH FUSEBOX, WHITE 1-PIN PLUG(A), PIN 1) 10 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT Connect to YELLOW (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 6 SINCE THIS 2011 TOYOTA CAMRY has 2nd Starter wire, NEED TO CONNECT THIS AS WELL: so here is the process for that: need a SPDT relay 86 and 87 CONNECT to 30Amp Fused; 12V CONSTANT. You can take one wire and make a Y split after the fused portion. 85:   The ( 21 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT) from the 24 pin Aux harness on Viper 5706. 30: Connect to 2nd starter wire in Camry ( So this would be the GRAY (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 3) MUST: USE Diode 1N4004 across 86 and 85 with the strip or (cathode) towards 86.   One can solder this to the relay harness or crimp. Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin connector 1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA Ignition 2/Flex OUTPUT -NOT USED 2 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT -NOT USED 3 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT -NOT USED 4 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT -NOT USED 5 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT -NOT USED 6 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT -NOT USED 7 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT -NOT USED 8 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT -NOT USED 9 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) ( CONNECT THIS GRAY WIRE TO THE HOOD PIN underneath side ; crimp into connector provided and join)   Usually it is good to leave it NO condition; 10 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR N/O) Idatalink should take care of this with D2D 11 WHITE/ BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT -NOT USED 12 VIOLET/WHITE* TACHOMETER INPUT ( I AM NOT GOING TO USE VIRTUAL TACH as I think this is better as I don’t have a bit writer tool) SO: Connect to: BLACK (AC) @ OBD II Connector, BLACK 16-PIN PLUG, PIN 9) 13 BLACK/ WHITE** (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY /PARKING BRAKE INPUT GROUND THIS WIRE on a good chassis ground like with above harnesess. 14 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT -NOT USED 15 GREEN* (-) DOOR INPUT -NOT USED idatalink should take care of this with D2D 16 BROWN / BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT -NOT USED 17 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT -NOT USED 18 VIOLET* (+) DOOR INPUT -NOT USED 19 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT -NOT USED 20 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT -NOT USED Taken care by idatalink D2D 21 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT AM GOING TO USE with a relay for the 2nd starter connection; see above with the 10pin harness explained. 22 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT -NOT USED 23 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT -NOT USED 24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT -NOT USED

you're missing quite a few connections. You need status output for alarm disarm, lock/unlock, parking lights, brake shutdown. The idatalink is a Convenience (Door locks, tach, disarm, trunk release, etc) + Immobilizer Data. these connections through d2d. The PKALL is an IMMOBILIZER DATA ONLY. Which means you have to wire everything else besides the key data. My suggestion is buy yourself either bypass modules. Idatalink ads-alca + DBI-DL(TL)-1 firmware Flashlogic FLCAN + DBA-DL(TL)-1 firmware Xpresskit DBALL(2) my last resort bypass module Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

tedmond, Thanks. So shortly after posting I went ahead and look into it more and understand it as you have said it. It is only the immobilizer data. After all the time I've spent already I'd like to continue with a manual install, unless there are other benefits other than convenience with the Idatalink. Honestly I've enjoyed working on it. Just there is never enough time to do it all. But hey, my car has been cracked wide open for the last month, inching slower and slower. I guess my question so far is the connections made thus far from the above are they okay or will some of them need to be redone? I understand the 24 pin harness will need a ton more connections, and possibly diodes for the door locks? As I'm writing this I might consider the idatalink... hah fickle are my desires and pride... But anyways yeah idatalink, purely convenience?

the idatalink gives you viper alarm control from oem remote, which can be a nice feature if you choose to use it. Other than convenience and immobilizer data not much really. You could hardwire, which will take you a half day to diy. With the idatalink 2 hours tops. Its literally 10 wires. 8 of which are at the same location. If you feel hardwiring is the way to go, then go for it. I never looked over the connections so can't say if they were right. No diodes for door locks required.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

tedmond, Thanks. I figured for a $25 dollar difference it might just be worth it to save the time and live life haha. None the less great information for someone who decided on a whim to take on a fun challenge.

your vehicle is simple as it gets. Once you get the unit in hand, bench prepping makes it much easier to install. Everything is cleaner, less bulky. Make it 11 wires, i would add the rear defrost as well. Its one additional wire and it's one of the best features to have. PM me once you get your unitTed

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert