Viper 5706v install 2005 Silverado ex cab

vital_idol wrote: sorry if I'm beating a dead horse. starting to get overwhelmed and haven't even started the install. Regarding this step: Relay Pin 86 and 87 to thick RED / White @ ignition switch harness through 20 Amp fuse Connect pin 86 & 87 to Red or Red/White Constant 12v (Ignition Harness) If I'm understanding correctly, do I need to get a length of wire then for these 2 connections from the relay to splice into the ignition wires? What gauge wire would be appropriate?

The Relay Pin 86 draws very little current. You can connect this wire to the Pin 87 wire right at the relay. Then you would run the Pin 87 wire to it's +12V constant power source. That wire should be fused and needs to be 12 gauge ( 14 gauge would be OK for a short run of less than 15 inches ).Soldering is fun!

This thing is killing me and all I'm doing is going over each harness/wire and removing those I won't need. On the previous page that runs through each wire, some say not used and some say handled by D2D. If i'm planning to utilize D2D, then its safe to remove that wire correct? I'm a little confused on the tach now. I have the wire on the alarm that says its input from Tach, and the wire on the flcan that says output tach. Do those connect? or is that only if i'm not connecting it to the truck tach? As was said in this statement... "Also take heed of the Tach signal drop-out warning. Personally, I would connect the Viper directly to the trucks White Tach wire at the back of the instrument panel. Never an issue that way." If I want to use the truck tach, i connect the viper wire #12 on the harness to it correct? Then I don't need to use the wire on the flcan?

..... and another question. Wiring the flcan, i have highlighted the wire in the picture. Does it just splice into an 12v ignition wire? Like the #2 wire from RS harness that I will connect to ignition red wire, can it just be connected at the same splice point? or am i interpreting this wrong?

This is where you really start to get into it. As for removing the un-used wires : It does keep things neat to de-pin all the un-used wires but if you end up needing them it could be a PITA. I cut the un-used wires to about 2.5 inches, bundle them into groups by connector and encase them in heat shrink tube. If I end up needing a wire, I can pull it out of the heat shrink and solder the cut section back on. Again, it's your choice. Here is where it can get confusing. You have decided to go D2D. That means that many signals are handled by the D2D connection. Lets take the Tach signal. The FLCAN obtains that signal via its' connection to the trucks J1850 wire. It passes that Tach signal to the Viper via the D2D harness automatically. Supposedly the Viper will use this "Data" Tach signal properly. However, it is supposed to ignore the Data Tach signal is a Tach signal is hardwired to the Vipers' Violet/White Tach In wire. Interestingly enough, this Tach In signal could come from the FLCAN's Purple/White Tach output wire or the truck itself at one of several locations. As previously mentioned, the GM1 firmware has been known to mysteriously drop the Tach Output signal, both Data and hardwire. That is the reason that I suggested going directly from the Viper to the White Tach wire at the instrument panel. Again, it's your choice. On this same note about the Tach signal, it is possible to go into the Advanced setting while Flashing the FLCAN module and turn off the Tach Output. Yes, the FLCAN Pink IGN (+) In wire gets connected to the Vipers Pink (+) Ign1 output wire which continues to the trucks Pink IGN1 wire. One thing to remember is that the FLCAN will only supply the front door status to the Viper. If you have a 4 door trunk, you must add those door trigers to the Vipers' Door Status Input to ensure proper alarm monitoring. This is where you learn about diodes. Here is the info on the rear door triggers :   Driver's Rear Door Pin LT BLUE/BLACK (-)   BCM VIOLET CONN, PIN A3 (ALL MODELS)   Pass Rear Door Pin      LT GREEN/BLACK (-) BCM VIOLET CONN, PIN A2 (ALL MODELS) Diode info can be found on this site. You will need some 1N4001 diodes. Are we having fun yet? Now you can see why a good 12V shop charges the amount they do for a quality install.Soldering is fun!

This is not going well.... 2 hours in with pretty much zero progress. i've removed the cover, stripped one wire, pinched a finger, stabbed a finger. have fixated on where i'm going to put the alarm brain for way too long. Any suggestions where it should be put? tried putting it to the right of the metal bracket but not sure that will work. on verge of breaking down and paying someone but that will just make me upset for much longer...

Don't stress out.   I spend some time looking for the best place to locate the R/S unit. Typically it comes down to a secure location that is within wires reach of all the necessary vehicle connection points. Cut the wires to length and route them in groups to their final destination. The closer to a factory appearance, the better. Just be sure to keep away from anything that moves to prevent chaffing and allow extra slack for tilt steering wheels, etc.Soldering is fun!

day 2. have made some progress although haven't touched the RS yet... Any way of determining the tach wire? like a way to test that its the correct white wire?

I feel your pain man. ive had my dash torn apart in my daily driver for two days trying to get some help on here and nobody seems to be able to help for some reason and I pretty much have it all done as far as I can tell just having bypass module issues

oh i've gotten plenty of help. I probably should not have attempted this myself based on how much help i've needed, but on the plus side, I think i'm nearing the finish line. couple more wires on the RS and the tach wire. Then just need to figure out how the rear doors get wired. so far, its 2 wires on the BCM that I'm guessing i connect 2 of the wires on the Viper that say door input. somewhere in there i need diodes.    Oh then the part i'm afraid won't be to my liking, cleaning it up and putting everything back together and hoping it doesn't look like a hack job.

that's good people are helping you. I wish I could get the same lol