2009 Corolla Japanese Made.

Thank you. I just don't want to be too much burden. I am trying to install Viper 4706V. DBALL2 by-pass flashing with XKLOADER2

Howeii and Ted Do I need the Biwriter to program the Viper or the DBALL2? or any thing else?

You need to program the DB-ALL2 via the XK loader having downloaded the program from the Xpresskit site. Depending on whether a plug at the BCM or a driver kick panel plug controls the windows raising if so you only need the bitwriter to program aux for that function. Frankly I'd only spend the money if you were doing lots of installs.

Howeii, I might assuming like your profile signature said. I tested the ignition switch and came out as follow. Please help me double check to confirm that I am right. Ignition Switch 8 pin Connector    Pin 1 : White (Ignition 1)     Pin 2: A pair of Black (Accessory)     Pin 3: Yellow (12 V DC)     Pin 4: Emptied Pin 5: A pair of White (Starter)     Pin 6: White ( 12 V DC)     Pin 7: Gray (Ignition 2)     Pin 8: Emptied Tested result with Multimer Tester    Pin 1. ACC = 0   On = 12    Crank = drop to 10V DC         Pin 2. ACC = 12 On = 12   Crank = drop to 10V DC     Pin 3. ACC = 12  On = 12     Crank = drop to 10V DC     Pin 4. No test (Emptied)       Pin 5. ACC = 0  On = 12     Crank = drop to 10V DC     Pin 6. ACC = 12 On = 12     Crank = drop to 10V DC     Pin 7. ACC = 12  On = 12     Crank = drop to 10V DC     Pin 8. No test (Emptied)

Correction Pin 7. ACC = 0  On = 12     Crank = drop to 10V DC

Use a test light, Snap-On, Mac NOT a DMM much quicker and more reliable.

I was a going to pick you up on pin 7. When you have pairs going to a single terminal (pin) you can connect (ONLY via solder and Scotch 33 please) to either.

Meter or DMM are both reliable test tools, I agree that a test light is quicker to use. Personally, my fluke dmm is used more often than the power probe. On that note, as Howie mentioned, a bitwriter is not necessary. Even pros rarely touch the bit-writer, unless it's a "custom" setting. The programming menu is fairly sufficient for the avid DIYer. If your DBALL2 is not flashed, pick up a XK-loader if you plan to do other cars in the future. If not, it would more cost effective to have a shop flash it for 10-15 dollars. Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

X 2 with Ted. We seen all of this before where an avid amateur has all the finest (most expensive) tools. Frankly the only top of the range tools are my Snap-On spanners and sockets, Milwaukee compact combi drill and Milwaukee compact screwdriver plus Weller soldering equipment. The only wires you mustn't probe with a tester would be data, e.g. CAN or LIN networks or airbag circuits, data wires are usually in a twisted pair and measure about 2.5 V, airbag circuits generally have yellow looms. TBH the last late Yaris I did, I used a spare key and a 556U plus hardwire. No need for a DB-ALL. The other install caveat would be don't turn on the ignition with anything unplugged. VAG are the worst offenders (airbag, ABS lights staying on) but Toyotas have been known to cause nightmares on occasion especially if not firmly plugged back in. I have a pair of no-name DMMs with a 10 amp DC current rating, more than adequate for this kind of work.

Thanks both. You two are very formative (So generous to amateurs like me). I bought the XK-loader and flashed the By-Pass DBALL aready. Hope I got the right firm ware. I don't need to do anything with the remote starter right, besides connecting the wire and programming the remote control.