Tacoma 2010 and Viper 4706v

cherxiong wrote: resolve the brake shutdown issue/remote starter stop after around 15 second - 1 minute?

What do the Shutdown Diagnostics say are the cause of the shutdown? DEI Remote Starters have a shutdown diagnostic. It will tell you what triggered the shutdown. Ie, where to look for the problem. "Shutdown" also includes "failure to start". To enter shutdown diagnostic mode: 1. Turn the ignition off. 2. Press and hold the Program switch. 3. Turn the ignition on and then off. 4. Release the Program switch. 5. Press and release the Program switch. The LED reports the last system shutdown by flashing for one minute in the following grouped patterns and stops flashing when the ignition is turned on. Shutdown Flash Patterns: 1 System timed out 2 Over-rev shutdown 3 Low or no RPM, Low battery (for voltage & Virtual tach modes) 4 Remote control shutdown (or pulse on wht/blu wire) 5 (-) Hood shutdown [gry wire grounded] 6 (+) Brake shutdown [brown wire has 12V present] 7 Neutral safety [blk/wht wire NOT grounded]

Ted : are you actually testing your wires? like i said before if the shutdown shows brake input, temporarily disconnect it to see if it stays running.

verity in programming its not on voltage sense I did, but I remove both the hoodpin, then the brake input. My car wont start after both of these wires are removed. I think it doesn't start because of the hoodpin was not there anymore when the brake input was removed. I will try to just remove the brake input sometimes this week and leave the hoodpin on to see if it starts. If it does start and keep running when the brake input is removed, what would it be the solution to the problem? One of the thing is: It fails only the first try. Remote start does start and keep running after the second or third try. Davep: What do the Shutdown Diagnostics say are the cause of the shutdown? I did the diagnostic test. It gave me a combination of flahes: 5 flashes, 6 flashes, then 4 flashes. 4 flashes Transmitter shutdown (or optional push button) 5 flashes (+) Brake shutdown 6 flashes (-) Hood shutdown

If it doesn't start first time around you need to check the second starter. Also The viper will only attempt to restart in tach less. In tach mode the second it's running it'll stay running. when you flashed the firmware djd you turn off all the unnecessary options ? I've seen bypass units report a fault on a trigger when there is no oem hood pin and brake status across the network. I understand the tl1 is for transponder only but using d2d might be your issue. Hardwire your dball (power ground and status)Ted

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Thanks Ted. The remote starter doesn't attempt to restart itself. I'm the one that attempt to restart the remote myself the second time or third time after it fails to start/keep running the first time . When the car is turned off after driving, it requires me to remote start a second time or third time again in order for it to start and running. The same cycle again. I flashed the firmware when I haven't connect anything at all.

cherxiong wrote: I did the diagnostic test. It gave me a combination of flahes: 5 flashes, 6 flashes, then 4 flashes. 4 flashes Transmitter shutdown (or optional push button) 5 flashes (+) Brake shutdown 6 flashes (-) Hood shutdown

For the DEI's I'm familiar with, the shutdown diagnostic only flashes the LAST shutdown. R/S the vehicle with the remote. If it shuts off by itself, wait until the dash lights turn off, then run the diagnostic. Don't turn off the ign with the remote (Code 4), or anything else. Just wait for it to time out. You should see code 3 IF there is a tach or programming error. IF you see code 1, AND the dash lights stay on for the entire run-time after the engine stops running, you have programmed "engine checking = OFF" and something isn't powered-up correctly that causes the engine to shut off. Like the electric fuel pump.

Thanks for all the information. I will look into all the possible solutions.

Ted, Davep, and Howeii Sorry. I haven't test/check any of the connection I made, because i have no time yet. I have a quick question regarding my connection: When I change the menu 3 from option 1 (Virtual Tach)to option 4 (Tachometer) the car cranking when remote start, but not start and engine not running. It just shuts off right away after the cranking. Does this mean I wire the tach wire to a wrong connection? Is this why my vehicle has the problem with the first attempt remote start with the Virtual Tach mode? The car only start with the Virtual Tach mode and still have issue with the first attempt.

Ted : If it doesn't start first time around you need to check the second starter. And how do I check this option to see if there is a problem?

Tach. There should be a hardwire tach point at the OBD socket, pin 9. If not a fuel injector, test:- DMM set to 20VAC red probe to suspect wire and black probe to ground. You should get a reading of 1.5 to 5 VAC. NOTE AC setting. Have you tested to see if there's a second starter? If yes wire up as follows:- A67_tac_2nd._starter.bmp I have a feeling you're connecting up without actually testing and verifying anything.

I did test for ACC, Ignition, Starter, and 12VDC and labeling them before making connection. Found 1 ACC, 2 Ign, 2 Starters, and 2 12VDC. I did test the door lock and unlock for voltage change before connection. The wires that I didn't test was the TACH wire at the OBDII, the key sense wire and the Brake wire. I know that I got the brake wire wired correctly because when the car start with remote, stepping on the brake shut down the car. Your diagram for the relay is different from what I found in here. Again down here is how I connect my second starter with the relay. Does my connection makes any difference from your diagram. A lot of post on this 12Volts showed that the second starter should connect as what I did. MY 30/40 AMP RELAY PIN 86 AND 87 JOIN AND CONNECT TO A 20 AMP FUSE, THEN TO A SECOND 12VDC AT THE KEY SWITCH PIN 85 CONNECTING TO PIN 21 [VIOLET / YELLOW (-)200mA STARTER OUTPUT)] OF THE VIPER PIN 30 CONNECT TO 2ND STARTER WIRE AT THE KEY SWITCH A DIODE 1N4005 WAS USED ACROSS 86 AND 85 WITH THE STRIPE TOWARD PIN 86. PIN 87A WAS NOT USED