Mazda Sting 2003, keyless entry, locking module

Good day.I think I have fried my friends central locking module.tried to hook up keyless entry with factory central locking.this vehicle has has 3 wires coming from the switch to the module and 2 thick wires going from the motor to the module.I think I should have add a actuator in drivers door.but I have put positive to one of the switch wires while testing for pulse which were wrong.the central locking is just dead after that,no fuse poped at the fusebox and the circuit board of the module still looks fine with no burned tracks.can anyone tell me if this module have a fuse or if there is any other solution by adding 2relays etc,before getting a new module or installating aftermarket central locking.the pictures attached are exactly the same module I'm talking about. Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

I see the pictures does not upload please view link http://www.tav-autoverwertung.de/shop/bilder/produkte/gross/1821_1.jpgDo it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

Use any aftermarket lock timer such as SPAL or MES. The two thick ones are motor wires, there will also be a constant 12V+ and ground. The three thin wires are triggers, one will be ground, the other two go to ground depending on whether vehicle is locked or not. A timer relay is used because in either locked or unlocked state one of those wires will be constant ground. Thus if you use ordinary relays, you will drain the battery and burn out the actuators. You should never have put a live to test anything!!! When not sure test passively either using a DMM or a test light. Remember also the two motor wires sit on ground therefore attaching a live will instantly short. Unless it's a tiny surface mount circuit board you've probably simply blown the first diode inbound from the wire you touched. The easiest way to add an actuator is simply to parallel the motor wires.

I used a DMM,the one wire always showed -tve while the other 2 goes to -tve while lock and unlock.I used a 2A fused jumper wire connected to ground and touched the trigger wires Momentarily to see if it lock and unlock.I do this with some cars with -tve trigger wires.but on this one nothing happend it just moved a little on unlock -tve,so I made the brave move by putting my jumper wire on +tve and did the same move and it silently just went dead with no sound smell nothing (which I messed up).do you normally just put a actuator on these cars driver doors?I see with the mazda 323s you add a actuator in driver door.Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

Yes Japanese made Hondas, Saabs Astra Mk l and 2, Volvo 740 plus Mits Shogun (Japanese version aka Pajero), Mk ll Golf, Imprezza until 2000 plus others all had what is known as single point locking in the UK. This means a switch operated by either the plunger inside a lock outside and motors in the other doors. With multipoint, it means you have motors in ALL doors. Trick with single point cars was to trigger the relay via the thin triggers and parallel the motor wires to the added driver door actuator. Your last post simply confirms what I already posted this: they are the trigger wires:- "one wire always showed -tve while the other 2 goes to -tve while lock and unlock" Also many European and some Japanese notably Honda won't lock if the driver door is open the trick is to move the catch on the lock at rear of door to the closed position.

I'm sorry for the lack of understanding,but I would love to have this behind my back as this is the most fustrating part of installations.what do you mean by "Parallel the motor wires"more detailDo it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

The two thicker motor wires, just join the new actuator wires to those two.

Ok,so what effect will It have on keyless entry?lock and unlock from alarm,does the alarm wires still go the -tve trigger wires from door switch.I always thought when they talk about add actuator in drives doors you just take a slave motor mount it in drivers door with the wires going to alarm brain which already have onboard relays.Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

That's one way but its easier to do a I described, most alarms only have low current NEG outputs nowadays.

Out of interest if your alarm does have built in relays you could use it to replace that lock module BUT disconnect the wires going to door lock plus join existing motor wires and your new wires to the new actuator to it.