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2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee remote start problems


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money9117 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: July 26, 2015
Location: Delaware, United States
Posted: July 27, 2015 at 4:26 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote money9117
Hey everyone,
Hoping someone can help me sort this out. I have a 2004 Overland and I am attempting to install (its in there but not working) Viper 5607v remote start/alarm with a DB-ALL bypass module.
SO here is where my issue starts (it actually doesnt start). I wired everything up as per the instructions from the DB-ALL and the Viper install sheet. Everything works: lights, locks, starting the jeep with the key, etc, however starting the jeep with the remote start will crank the engine but will not fire. even if I hold a key up to the immobilizer. I have also followed the directions from install guides on this forum with no luck.
So heres a list of what I have hooked up:
From the viper:
6-pin main harness
1. red 12v constant - 12v constant
2. black chassis ground - ground
3. brown siren output - siren
4. wht/brown parking light iso wire - not connected
5. white parking light output - #11 pin on headlight switch (yellow)
6. orange ground when armed output - not connected
3-pin door lock
not connected
10-pin remote start heavy gauge
1. no connection
2. RED / blk fused 12v acc/starter input - red 12v constant ignition harness
3. pink/blk flex relay input 87a key side - not connected
4. pink/white ignition 2/flex relay output - blk/orange ignition harness (programmed in viper for acc 2)
5. red fused 12v ignition input - red 12v constant ignition harness
6. green starter input - not connected
7. violet starter output - yellow ignition harness
8. orange acc output - BLACK/ red ignition harness
9. RED / wht fused 12v ignition 2 - red 12v constant ignition harness
10. pink ignition 1 input/output - dark blue ignition harness
24-pin aux/shutdown/trigger harness (only listing whats hooked up)
13. blk/wht neutral saftey/parking brake - grounded
17. pink ignition 1 output - pink at 10-pin pink to dark blue ignition harness
20. brown brake shut down input - not connected
From what I have read and researched this ^ does not need to be connected with the DB-ALL.
DB-ALL connections
14-pin
2. yellow/violet J1850 - yellow/violet #2 pin obdII
8. yellow ignition (car side) - blue/wht car side immobilizer harness
9. orange / YELLOW ignition (immobilizer side) - blue/wht harness side immob
13. red 12v - red 12v constant ignition harness
14. black ground - ground
12-pin harness
5. violet/wht tach output - 24-pin harness violet/wht tach input
8. violet/grn parking light output - #11 pin yellow headlight switch
9. violet/brn parking light output - #11 pin yellow headlight switch
10-pin harness
9. pink ignition input - pink 10 pin harness pink to dark blue ignition harness
D2D harness
-connected to viper module.
I consider myself a competent person when it comes to wiring things up, all connections are soldered and either heat shrunk or taped no lose wires and all wire not being used are taped as well so they wont short.
I have tried to learn the virtual tach but the remote start wont start so it wont learn. I than connected the tach output on the DB-ALL to the tach input on the 24 pin connector on the viper and learned the tach and changed modes in the viper from virtual tach to tach in menu 3 item 2 option 4.
So when I press remote start with the system armed, all doors shut, etc it cranks the jeep for about 4-6 seconds stops, flashes parking lamps once, waits a few seconds and cranks again for about 4-6 seconds, stops, flashes once, waits, cranks 4-6 seconds flashes and stops and the remote says remote start error.
From other installs I have searched through it seemed to be ok to connect all the fused 12v's together and punch them to a single 12v constant source. If this is my issue I will probably be pretty wizzed lol.
On a side note I would like to have my horn honk with the siren when the alarm is tripped is this as simple as connecting the #16 wire (BLACK/ brown) from the 24 pin harness to the grey/orange horn wire under the steering wheel or is a relay needed?
I have tried to explain this the best I can SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!!!!!
Thanks James
and yes i tried
FLY ARMY
fly army!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 27, 2015 at 7:54 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
On the 24 AUX harness, disconnect the thin Pink from the thick Pink right away.  Not needed and you connected a low current (-)
to a high current (+).  Hopefully the Viper didn't get whacked.  Put a DMM on the thick Pink and see if it gets power during a R/S attempt.
Soldering is fun!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 27, 2015 at 8:08 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Only the DB-ALL2 Violet/Brown and Violet/Green wires should be connected to the Yellow Parking Light MUX wire.  Disconnect the
Vipers White wire quickly.  It is not needed and could mess things up.  The Type 3 Install guide is kinda confusing with that R/S wire...
Soldering is fun!
money9117 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: July 26, 2015
Location: Delaware, United States
Posted: July 27, 2015 at 8:41 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote money9117
Headed out to try this now.
fly army!
money9117 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: July 26, 2015
Location: Delaware, United States
Posted: July 27, 2015 at 9:31 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote money9117
OK went out and just tried this and I had already cut the thin pink wire off this set up so just the pink thick gauge wire and the thin pink gauge wire from the dball go to the blue wire in the ignition harness.
When I attempt a start with a DMM grounded and the positive lead on the pink wire I get a small load from the pink wire.
I also have the tach connected from the dball and viper unit hard wired and have learned the tach per vipers instructions.
Also what position should the 10amp fuse be in on the relay unit? My lights still work without that even in place.
Just to clarify when you teach the DBALL you plug the 10 pin, 12 pin, 14 pin, d2d in than after you get the solid red you insert your key, turn it on (NOT START?) wait for the led's and turn it off?
All in all I feel as though it is something with the ignition because like I mentioned before it wont start with the key in or near the ignition during remote start but if the key is in the ignition and turned to the ON position it will fire right up.
fly army!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 27, 2015 at 10:06 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

If you are going D2D, the Viper Parking Light Fuse/Jumper doesn't matter but Positive is fine.

It's possible that the thick Pink is no longer working due to the thin Pink mis-wire.  It should show +12V constant a few seconds after a R/S is initiated and stay at +12V for the whole 12 minute run time.  You could try are few tests.

1. Disconnect the thick Pink from the Jeep and DB-ALL2.  Move the Pink/White wire from the BLACK/ Orange ACC2 to the Dark Blue IGN1 and DB-ALL2.  Reprogram the Viper to Flex = IGN2.  Try a R/S.  You won't have power to the ACC2 but the Jeep should R/S OK.

or

2. Cut the thick Pink near the Viper, before the DB-ALL2 and Jeep connections.   Initiate a R/S and jumper in +12V to the car side of the cut Pink wire a second later.  This will simulate the Viper IGN1 output near the correct time.  The jumper should have a 20 Amp fuse.

If the thick Pink is out of commission, it could cause problems because it is used as an input for the Viper as well...

Soldering is fun!
money9117 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: July 26, 2015
Location: Delaware, United States
Posted: July 27, 2015 at 10:17 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote money9117
I will also try this tomorrow, if the thick pink wire is done i am assuming I basically fried something internally in the viper unit?
Thanks again
fly army!

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