Run-away remote start. Can’t cut engine.

I need help figuring out what went wrong with my installation. I have a 1996 Honda Accord EX Sedan with V-tec and no factory alarm/remote entry that I know of. The old AviStart 3200 (Avital) quit working so I decided to replace it with a new Carvox CX-999. It's a two-way car alarm with remote engine starter. The alarm works and arms/disarms with power door lock lock/unlock respectively. Remote start only engages when the car is armed (I suppose that makes sense) so I'm ok with that. The big problem is that I can't kill the engine by stepping on the brake and/or turning the key to run position. So Basically, I could just drive away without the key. I tested and could shift and drive away w/o the key in the ignition. The only way to shut off the engine is to press on the remote start again. My key has no effect whatsoever here. I can still start my car the normal way with a key. I have checked and rechecked 3 times already and can't seem to find anything obvious. I do have a Brown(+) Wire for brake pedal input of the alarm connected to the brake wire which produce 12v when depressed. I have positively tested it with a meter. I appreciate any advice or suggestion you may have. Thank you

My hood pin switch is working as I can arm the car with the hood up, but remote start won't engage. Remote start would cut engine when I triggered the alarm by opening the driver door with my key.

Seriously? Sorry but that brand is trouble, try connecting brown directly to a POS source after you initiate the RS. If that works then redo by soldering that brown wire. If not birthed Carvox and buy DEI.

howie ll wrote: Seriously? Sorry but that brand is trouble, try connecting brown directly to a POS source after you initiate the RS. If that works then redo by soldering that brown wire. If not birthed Carvox and buy DEI.

I'm afraid that I am leaning toward your opinion too. Anyway, I connected the brown wire directly to a POS source as you suggested and nothing changes--the engine was still on. I switched out the alarm brain (I bought two), and it didn't change a thing. What does that mean? Did I forget connecting some wires? right now I just assume that something is wrong with my installation and not the alarm itself. HELP!!!

The only things that will stop an R/S are foot brake, parking brake if manual, hood switch and over revving if programmed for tach. Once you've eliminated those you're back to faulty unit. One last continuity check though, from the plug at the Carvox end, see if also shows 12 volts at the brown wire's terminal when you press the foot brake.

Out of interest, one 30 amp fuse to power the remote start part? Unsafe and nasty. Ford Fiestas in Europe in the 90's use to draw 30 amps on the ignition circuit alone. Also shows a relay to cut the ignition. Nooooooo. Only cut starter.

howie ll wrote: The only things that will stop an R/S are foot brake, parking brake if manual, hood switch and over revving if programmed for tach. Once you've eliminated those you're back to faulty unit. One last continuity check though, from the plug at the Carvox end, see if also shows 12 volts at the brown wire's terminal when you press the foot brake.

Continuity check was good as I got the same volt at the plug. See pix.

Check the harness of the other unit to make sure they did not put the brown wire in the wrong location on the harness that is in the car. If you put 12v on that wire it should kill the vehicle.

Checking voltage on the brown wire will not work like you are doing it. No current draw = no voltage drop. Plug it back in and check it again. There could be 1000 ohms of resistance in the wire or connector and it will still read 12 volts with no current going through the wire.

i am an idiot wrote: Checking voltage on the brown wire will not work like you are doing it. No current draw = no voltage drop. Plug it back in and check it again. There could be 1000 ohms of resistance in the wire or connector and it will still read 12 volts with no current going through the wire.

With the alarm in armed position and R/S engaged, I disarmed the alarm and performed the voltage test at the brown plug with the plug plugged in and active + brake pedal depressed; my meter read 13.8 volts. The engine kept on running of course( I know it should cut out in theory). The brown wire is in its correct position on the plug since the menu also indicates that it is in the 5th position.