Power Window controller odd behavior

Great site you have here. I wish I would have known about it in 1999. Anyways, my problem concerns a car alarm that has been properly installed for years, but now has a malfunction. Vehicle: 1999 Dodge Dakota with 2 power windows (from factory, only the driver's window has "one-touch" down). Alarm: Rattler model 300 with a 530T window automation module. Problem: Passenger window still works flawlessly (roll-up on system arm, vent/roll-down on aux channel), but the driver's window has developed the following behavior...       When rolling down, the window only moves about an inch at a time (as though it is "venting"). Then, the 2nd press of the switch does NOTHING, followed by the 3rd press moving the window another inch down. Every OTHER press of the down switch moves the window ~1 inch. When rolling up, EVERY press of the up switch moves the window up ~1 inch. I don't think it is a problem with the 530T window automation module (since the passenger side still works), and it is not a problem with the install (because it had worked flawlessly for years). I'm asking if anybody can provide me with any leads. Is my truck's stock "one-touch" window switch malfunctioning?

Is this a case of a dead relay (if I have one for the windows)?

Or should I be looking for loose wires? System was installed at a Circuit City in 2001, and I don't know the specifics of how they worked-around the factory one-touch down feature. Any $0.02 out there? Thanks, Kurt

Correctly wired the 530t wiring should have gone directly to the motor wires in each door to give you one touch up and down on each window from any switch. I hesitate to say it's the OEM window control module subject to you going onto a Dakota owner's forum to find out if this problem has come up before. The other quick way to test would be to temporarily rejoin the factory up and down wires, that will tell you straight away whether it's OEM or 530t. Considering here in Europe vehicles are made for a 7 year lifetime, you haven't done badly with either alarm or window closer!

Thanks for your reply. I finally had some time to check things out, and... I reconnected the factory UP & DOWN. That window now works as it did stock. So that confirms my 530T as the culprit. I'll likely replace it with an identical unit for ease of install (same plug design still available, I hope). However, I'm curious about something, and was wondering if anybody wanted to weigh-in... Would the "530T resistor mod" be a possible remedy? My DIP switches are already set at the highest threshold. Assuming the 530T's internal relay for the driver's-side is not responding, might more current get it to trigger? There was ONE TIME in the last couple months when the driver's window did an "auto up" as it should. This gave me a slight glimmer of hope

How hard is it to switch the two window outputs? Ie put the passenger window on the malfunctioning driver's output for a test. If the window motor or drag characteristics have changed over the years, that might explain the recent behavior. If the driver output can run the passenger window correctly, then its the driver motor or window mechanism that is at fault, and not the module.

I have a 91 S-series pick up I drive every day for work. The window motors in 1st gen S-series are notorious for becoming "slow" and eventually just stop moving until they cool down. I've replaced at least a dozen motors in my 20 years of owing 10 different S-series. I recently went to replace the motors in the DD. I had the door panel off, and ran the window to position the regulator for removal. The glass moved normally. I ran it up and down for 5 minutes, and it worked flawlessly. wth? All I did was take the door panel off. The inner rubber molding was hard as a rock. In the down direction, it acted as a wedge, jamming and inhibiting the glass to move down. I "broke" the rubber with my finger, so it was more flexible, and the windows worked normally again. I never did install the motors.

Point is it may be an increase in resistance from a mechanical deal causing the problem. And not an electrical or electronics malfunction.

Again, a LIKE Dave! You reminded me of one of the Mits. Galants I had in the 80's where I shaved with a stanley knife the inner moulding to make the window work properly on the driver's door, my fault I'd had the door apart to install Boston mid and separate tweeters.