viper 5706 and 535t to 1994 Toyota Tercel

Hi. I am in the process of installing the viper 5706 and directed 535t into my 1994 Toyota Tercel manual. I also have two 451m relays and I am installing a power window kit and power door lock kit. I have come to connections that I am completely unsure of. I believe I was told that my car uses switching negatives, so here is where I am unsure. 1.     Light flash polarity – if the above is true then this should be set to negative. So far I have not used any relays and the original viper(300) system that was in the car had one connected to it. I used 2 1N4004 diodes, one for the ground when armed to the 535t and one for the aux output to the 535t and I am not sure if I would need to apply anymore. Viper 5706 Main harness – 6pin 4 Parking light isolation 5 Parking Light output 2.     Neither one is designated as being positive or negative, and I haven’t been able to find any information to point me in the right direction for my application but I am assuming #5 is a positive output. Aux harness – 24pin 3.     Do I need to apply a relay to these? 4 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT 5 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT 4.     Are these necessary to my application and will I need relays for these? 1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA Ignition 2/Flex OUTPUT 5 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT 11 WHITE/ BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT 17 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT 21 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT Remote start – 10pin 5.     The installer who was going to do this had these wires soldered together, and I am planning to connect them to the BLACK / YELLOW ignition (+) in my car 2 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED 12V ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT 3 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY 5 RED (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 1 INPUT 9 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87 Thanks in advance

It's nearly midnight here in the UK do nothing util you hear from me your am tomorrow. What you've listed for some of those connections are going to fry your unit!

thank you for the reply. Will wait.

Thanks, dog tired and I need my iPad in this room so I can read the info on one screen and type to the other! A couple of points, if the lock kit is a good one MES or SPAL, they will give you all the parts as a kit, this kit includes a timer relay so you won't need a 451, just trigger it from the 5706 blue and green NEG lock outputs. Either SPAL or MES relays will have 2 spare leads or terminals (depending on which type of timer relay)for just that function. MES is Swiss the best all around. OEM to lots of auto manufacturers, also sold by DEI. Try and place the window switches in the centre console then you can mount the 535T adjacent, boy will that save you time and wiring plus you'll have one shot up and down both sides.

I was on a bit a budget when I ordered the lock kit. Ill inbox the link to my wiring log so far, just in case there is anything else I might have made an error with

Official list. H3 Heavy gauge RED / white, RED / black and red join to WHITE/ green or WHITE/ red. If both are present split between. Pink to ignition 1 BLACK / YELLOW. Pink/white to to ignition 2 BLACK/ red Cut starter wire BLACK/ white. Green to key side. Purple (violet) to motor side. Orange ACC to blue/red ACC H1 Power inputs Red to ignition loom, WHITE/ green or WHITE/ red or heavy feed to fuse box from battery. Black to a bolt in kickpanel, scrape paint under bolt. Brown to siren. White to GREEN/ red in steering column. Open slot on top of 5706, change fuse setting to NEG (-). Orange to orange on 535t, no diode required. Door lock use 1 X 451 set up as add actuators. Violet, violet/black to 12V+ constant as above. WHITE/ black BROWN / black to good ground see above. GREEN/ black and blue/black split to motors. H2 24 pin connector. Blue/white, activate rear defogger, speak to me if you intend doing it. RED / white trunk release if fitted, again as blue/white above.Relays might be needed on each. WHITE/ violet Aux 1 to RED / white on 535T Grey hood pin mandatory use provided hood pin. (Safety factor).* Blue trunk trigger RED / white, trunk light or switch adjacent to lock* Violet/white tach input, black no 9 on check plug (OBD socket). If that isn't there refer to me for alternatives. BLACK/ white to parking brake switch at base or display light on inst. panel. If auto to a good ground (I usually solder to the black at H1). GREEN/ black to factory disarm white blue, either kick panel or factory alarm ECU* Green door trigger, BLACK/ white, 2 pin plug dash fuse box. BROWN / black, horn, to GREEN/ YELLOW, steering column loom. Brown to GREEN / WHITE, brake switch or driver kick panel. * If factory alarm ECU wire grey hood or blue trunk to same colours at factory theft ECU, then no hood pin needed TEST. Install locks and windows first! Remember what I said about the window switches! Take 535t and window power to thickest constant,e.g. at dash fusebox or battery + Test locks by grounding either thin green (lock), thin blue (unlock) momentarily on 451L. Don't power windows from ignition, power as above with a 25 amp fuse and share that feed with the 535t. Test 535t by either window switch giving you one touch up down or ground orange for close momentary RED / white for vent and open. Do not cut any unused wires, bundle up in a loom for future use.

Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it. That cleared up a lot of confusion. Will I have the roll up on arming without following this? https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/y_form_diodes.png

Yes not needed, don't know why they did it that way. My way, you've no programming at all apart from tach learn and change from manual to auto if you have an auto. You could wire aux 1 to the 535t orange, you have to set it as timed, say 10 seconds (that's the default timed anyway) and send aux 2 to the RED / white on the 535t, leaving that momentary (alarm factory default settings). That means the windows won't close when you arm, aux 1 to close and aux 2 to vent and open. More complicated and fiddly and only needed if you're going to leave a child or dog in the car.

Just wondering because the heat out here is nuts right now, so the vent option is necessary. I got that diagram from this post https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=138774 you were helping someone else, I figured that would have been useful to me

My original set up gives you vent. KISS. Did you read my last post, I think the guy was confusing himself more than me. Get the job done, then because I told you not to cut the wires, you'll be able to modify/chop and change if needed.