2012 Ford Focus PTS/Man Trans Viper 5706/Dball2

Hi all, quick backstory, I had my Viper 5706/Pkall combo in an older Ford that I no longer drive, but my new (new to me anyway,) car is a 2012 Ford Focus, Titanium, manual transmission, PTS.   The Pkall can’t be used on this car so I kept it in the family by using the Dball2. I have been advised that the idatalink is also a great choice, (maybe even a better choice?)   I’m reusing the 5706V for the remote start functions, so why the 5706v? 1)     2 way LCD remote 2)     Up to 1 mile range, (I work in a 10 story building with a large parking lot where I may have a view of my car and sometimes not.) 3)     Dball2 by itself with 3x “Remote Start Ready” (RSR) not applicable for Manual transmissions. I received fantastic advice here so here are my new questions. I’ve attached pics of the wiring diagrams for the 5706v and Dball2, as well as the application charts for my car, ( for those that are learning like me.) I’ve marked on the 5706v install sheet which wires are “covered” by the D2D and don’t need to be physically wiRED / hooked up. I’ve marked which wires are D2D and which are Hard Wired.    I’ve also made some marks on the Dball2 sheet to reflect my Manual Trans application.   (I was able to flash my Dball2 with the correct FORD5 v1.13 for Push To Start) 1)     I’m using D2D, and the wiring diagram shows connecting an (+) Ignition status form the 5706v H3/10 PK to the Dball2 RED 12 pin connector/9. It says on the Dball2 application chart that it does “Ignition status” (last column in vehicle app guide pic). What’s the deal, hook it up W2W or not if using D2D? 2)     I have to hardwire the rear defroster H2/2, but the defroster circuits for the side mirrors are either run from the same rear defroster circuit or they’re run from individual door modules. Is there a way to tell what I have without door disassembly? If I do have modules, from the wiring diagram, they’re powered by the door module, so they’re turned on/off through the Data network…means I can’t control them with the remote start/Dball2, (unless that is a bitwriter option?) 3)     In my previous car, I had to wire the individual Accessory circuits so I could have the Heater or A/C on in a remote start, do I have to wire separate accessory circuits from the 5706v in the Focus? I’ve been looking at the HVAC diagrams and of the various modules, it looks as if they’re “hot at all times.” Is it just a matter of the BCM seeing a Push To Start command and then turning stuff on? 4)     I bought a Directed THFD1 harness but it looks like I don’t need that due to using the D2D. Looks like that harness is used if you have an alarm/remote start that does not support D2D (?) and don’t want to cut/splice wires. Is there anything I’m missing? Thanks everybody!

1) Yes; violet/brown DB-ALL 2 to pink on H3 of the Viper. 2)Can't help you too much with this, too different to the Euro version as well as having softer suspension, BUT. The defoggers for the mirrors will be a nightmare, you'll have to go into each door and get the output from each door module. The vehicle uses a CAN to the door which then divides into LIN to component I/O!! I even had to do that with lock/dead lock/unlock. If you have mirror defrost on with engine run then turn off. does the defrost automatically come back on when you restart? If so leave them on when you finish the previous journey. 3) Your last sentence is correct. 4) Put aside the harness just follow that D2D diagram.

Thanks Howie! I just had an "uh..duh!" moment, Rear Defroster switch signals the BCM/etc to turn on the rear defroster, as well as telling the individual door modules (via CAN) to turn on the side mirror defrosters, so that might be a non-issue. I plan on getting the install done this weekend, and we'll see how it goes. Yeah, softer suspension = spot on. I would of liked the upgraded handling package (firmer struts,) but I'd pass on the 18's with summer rubber. They look great, but not interested in the tire $$ or the bent rims due to Midwestern roads.   Maybe I'll upgrade the susp. down the road....

Of course in Europe especially BMW you kill the sports suspension option and with most Euro cars stick to the smallest size wheel diameter.

Alrighty, I was able to get the Dball2 programed by a local, authorized Dealer. A BIG thank you to Z-Tech in Naperville, IL. (Side note for other amateurs like myself, you can program the firmware via the XKloader through the Directed website, but you can not do the KEY2GO.) I've now programmed the 5706v for a manual transmission in the feature menu. I've also performed the tach learn procedure, and received 2 parking light flashes in return, (D2D learned/response.) So now I'm getting the 7 blinks when trying to do a remote start. This means the MTS shutdown procedure has not been performed, so when I do that, I get another problem. Doors closed, engine running: 1) Apply brake 2) Apply E/parking brake 3) Release brake 4) Push remote start button but I get an "Error" message on the remote. My connections are all the same/listed above. Is there a way to verify what signals I am or am not getting via the D2D, such as verifying parking or foot brake apply is being monitored? I'm going to give my install and feature menu another once over, but I'm kinda' out of ideas. Any ideas/help is appreciated, Thanks!

Also, forgot to add that I did enable the (checkmark) all available options during the firmware flash. I didn't actually click any of them, they were all selected as default so I just left it as is and flashed the firmware. Do I have to turn any of those off? Did some more searching on here, of the problems others have had, I checked my install and all seems to be ok. I've tried the remote start initialization procedure and still the Error, and get the same code: #7.

BLACK/ white parking brake input try hardwire. Also temporarily set up as an auto, then try it, error code will point to what is wrong.

Ok, BL/WH park brake hard wired to vehicle harness (WH/VT) at BCM. Remote Start MTS shutdown procedure now works correctly, however, it will not remote start. The car powers up, but I get a "push clutch to start" message on the dash display. It does this a couple times, then sets of the alarm. If I manually depress the clutch during a "remote start," the car starts/runs fine. Seems the Dball2 isn't generating/transmitting a clutch closed signal, etc or (?)

FIXED IT. I guess since I don't work on cars professionally anymore I also don't check my wires thoroughly...what a silly goose. I found my mistake double checking the clutch circuit via the factory electrical manual: There are two BU/OG wires in connector C2280A at the BCM, one is from the clutch switch and the other is from the hood switch. I had my Dball2/Clutch / YELLOW wired to the hood switch, WRONG! So when I connected to the correct BU/OG clutch wire and did a remote start procedure, all worked perfectly. Thanks to Howie II for the parking brake hardwire tip, etc. You're a lifesaver mate!

Old Ford trick since around 1999, one wire colour, multiple wires all different functions, that's why I pull the plugs and check the terminal numbers with a magnifying glass! You're so lucky you didn't have to go to the actual clutch or brake switch!