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'02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Remote Start Install


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hoobie7 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: October 26, 2015
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: November 21, 2015 at 9:07 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote hoobie7
I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee with factory alarm and transponder keys.
Here are my parts:
Viper 4806V remote start
DEI 457CW Chrysler Door Lock Interface
DEI 555C-W Transponder Bypass
I've been using the pictorial found HERE.
I have found two vehicle wiring diagrams that conflict slightly HERE and HERE.
I have some electronics background but I am trying to decide if this is more than I should tackle.
My biggest questions right now are "Does this look right?" and "Do I need a relay for flashing the parking lights?"
Below is my current wiring diagram I plan to use, hopefully it's readable.
'02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Remote Start Install -- posted image.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 21, 2015 at 9:36 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

I have never used the 457C or 555CW modules but, I have found a few errors.

H1/5 can go to the Parking Light wire with a 1,300 ohm resistor in-line.  Just set the Viper internal jumper/fuse to (-).

On the 24 Pin harness, Pin 17 is not used.  Do not connect it to the (+) IGN1 wire.

Both bypass modules are looking for a (-) GWR input from the R/S.  Instead of using the Dark Blue (-) Status Output

for both, use it for only one and then use the Blue/White (-) 2nd Status Output for the other.

On the very important H3 harness, Pin 4 and 7 must go to a +12V constant source.  All fused RED / xxx wires get +12V

inputs.  The Pink/White wire is a Flex output.  You should Program the Viper for ACC2 and use that for the BLACK/ Orange
ACC2 wire.

Think everything else is OK.  Just remember that one of the reasons they stopped making bypasses like the 555CW is

problems with pellet placement and cold weather.  You might have to spend some time getting the pellet positioned in
the best place and make sure to secure it well.

Soldering is fun!
hoobie7 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: October 26, 2015
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: November 22, 2015 at 3:51 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote hoobie7
Kreg, thank you very much for the sanity check!
That was very helpful and I am confident enough that I can do this myself.
A couple final questions:
I thought about using Pin 2 of the 24-pin harness for the rear defogger.
I found the suggestion to tie the two status wires into one HERE.
Do you see any issue twisting these together onto one status wire?
Second, would a 1k ohm and a 330 ohm in series be close enough to the 1300ohm resistor required?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 22, 2015 at 4:16 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

Yes, if you are planning to use the Viper's 2nd Status / Defog as Defog, you can combine both modules (-) GWR inputs and connect ( solder, please   '02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Remote Start Install -- posted image.  ) to the Dark Blue (-) Status Output.  I like to keep things separate if I'm not planning on doing the Defog.

Yes again.  If you have a DMM available and multiple 1k and 330 ohm resistors, test them ( they have a 5% tolerance ) and pick 2 that give the closest to 1,300 ohms.

Soldering is fun!

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