Parasitic Draw from Remote Starter

I have a 2007 Honda Civic LX Automatic Transmission I bought a remote starter 2 years ago through a certified Viper Installer. I currently have a parasitic draw, 1.5ish Amp draw (pretty high) I disconnected the entire remote starter and removed it bringing the current down to 0.03 Amps which is under the acceptable 0.05 Amps. The remote starter is a Viper 4606? <(pulled this model off the viper website as it looks the same) I have an older model, however, I'm sure its basically the same. It also has the Smart Start capability installed Additionally it uses an idatalink bypass ADS-ALCA. Is there anyway to diagnose what exactly is causing the parasitic draw? Bench testing (I have access to a 12V power supply) or if it has to be on the car so be it. I would like to reinstall the remote start for the winter usages, however, if it's trash I might just install a new remote starter. Any input on diagnosing it would be great. Thanks in advance!misturnice

Most draws are because of a bad ground or failing internal relay. First off is to relocate your ground to a better spot. Use your DMM to measure the existing ground location and move if the ground resistance is too high.Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

The ground is a beautiful ground, self tapping screw right into the knee shield? pure metal bracket (sharp edges). How would you go about checking the internal relay/replacing it?misturnice

Actually that's a terrible ground, never ever use a self tapper, you have plenty of M6 bolts (10mm spanner) or tapped holes in the kick panel use one of them. Self tappers work loose. You have your self tap plus the knee pad mounting bolts all adding resistance. Plus there might be a safety issue there. Remove a bolt from the kick panel, file to bare metal around the hole.

That's funny that your measure your ground according to appearance instead of metering the ground resistance to the battery.Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Yes, I agree with Jeff, looks or actually measured?

I know it's a ground as I have continuity tested it in relation to other grounds, as well as I've used that area as a ground for my multimeter when doing other tests in the past. Personally have not tested the voltage drop as I didn't think to do so. the bolt never was loose, and it looks like a solid connection mechanically.misturnice

I have checked the voltage drop between the grounding point to the battery negative - it's 0.1 mV with the car running. And 0.0 mV when off. To me that sounds like a reasonable voltage drop. Correct me if I'm wrong.misturnice

The "knee kick panel" I mentioned is apart of the frame as far as I know, it's not exactly where my knee is, however, it's offset to the right where the center console meets the dash. As a safety concern, it isn't in reach of anything nor is it in direct line of sight of anything if there were to be an accident.misturnice

OK, now that you found that out, you can go onto the next thing. Since the remote starter is a two part system ( bypass unit and remote starter unit ) you can disconnect the bypass module first while doing the draw test on your DMM. measure the voltage drop if any before and after the removal of the bypass module.Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA