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12v air valve wiring?


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fordfan2 
Member - Posts: 27
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Posted: January 03, 2016 at 8:01 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote fordfan2
I'm looking for some guidance on wiring some air ride valves. I have 4 air valves that I want to control individually. My plan was to use 2 3 pole/prong switches. The two middle prongs 12v and then other two prongs on each will have the individual valves. My issue right now is not only do I want to control them individually but I also wanted one switch to open all 4 valves at the same time. Problem im having is if I control just one right now it controls all of them. So I'm trying to figure out how to isolate them from each other but also trying them together. Any suggestions? Thank you!
Ween 
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Posted: January 03, 2016 at 8:11 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote Ween
So an additional switch to operate the valves? Either a 4 pole switch or a single pole switch with 4 diodes (one to each valve). The diode needs to be rated at more than the current required to operate the valve.
fordfan2 
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Posted: January 03, 2016 at 11:14 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote fordfan2
Yes it would be 3 switches total. Two would be for all 4 valves. The third switch would be for all 4 valves together. Just not sure exactly how to wire the third switch. The valves themselves don't have a current rating on them so I'm not exactly sure how much current that need for the diodes.
Ween 
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Posted: January 04, 2016 at 6:01 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote Ween
Since the current isn't known, 1N5400 series rectifier diodes would be fine. A car audio shop may have them. The banded end of the diode goes to each valve. The unbanded ends all connect together and to the switch. Other terminal on switch connects to 12V.
fordfan2 
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Posted: February 21, 2016 at 7:03 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote fordfan2
Ween wrote:
Since the current isn't known, 1N5400 series rectifier diodes would be fine. A car audio shop may have them. The banded end of the diode goes to each valve. The unbanded ends all connect together and to the switch. Other terminal on switch connects to 12V.
Just getting around to finally doing this. Thank you so much for the help Ween! That last switch that controls all 4 valves, I plan to wire in a relay that I can activate via Viper alarm system. I plan to use one of the aux outputs. I understand its a negative output from the viper module that will give me the ground for my relay coil. Is there any relay youd recommend for this job? Does this require a relay that has a diode across the coil or should I be okay with a regular 12v 30/40 amp relay? Again, Thank you for the help! Its much appreciated!
I plan to wire relay as follows.
86 - 12v constant
85 - (-) 200 mA Output from Viper
30 - Fused 12v constant
87 - Piggyback To all valve switch
Ween 
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Posted: February 22, 2016 at 7:18 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote Ween
If you are using the four diodes then you can have the relay contacts in parallel with the switch.
fordfan2 
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Joined: January 29, 2010
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Posted: February 23, 2016 at 3:12 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote fordfan2
Ween wrote:
If you are using the four diodes then you can have the relay contacts in parallel with the switch.
Yes, I took your advice and went with the diodes. So correct me if I'm wrong when I say
#30(relay) constant to hot side of switch (middle prong)
#87(relay) to valve side of the switch.
So it would use the constant to run all the valves on the switch, and then when activated via remote, would energize the coil and do the exact same thing. Very nice and simple. Again, correct me if I'm wrong.

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