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2010 acura tsx viper 4205V


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kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 29, 2016 at 4:36 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

"I have not officially done the factory reset, so it sounds like I do the factory reset then set to data mode before loading

the new firmware?" 

The Factory Reset won't harm the currently loaded firmware, it just clears everything.   Assuming the correct firmware is

already loaded, just Factory Reset, set Install Mode to Data and then do the Program to vehicle steps.

The relay wiring diagram will work OK.  Remember to connect the Vipers Violet Starter Output wire to the Pin 30 side of the
relay, not the Pin 87a side.

A few thoughts.  Using the Viper Orange GWA wire will give anti-grind when the default programming of Menu 2, Feature 9
is Option 1.  Additionally, it will prevent the car from starting with the key if the Viper is locked, which shouldn't be a problem
with the 4205V one button system because it has no ability to perform a lock function.  That being said, you could use the
unused Blue (-) 200mA Status Output wire as the relays' (-) input and do the same thing.  This would be anti-grind only.

Soldering is fun!
roger555 
Copper - Posts: 76
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Joined: July 24, 2009
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: January 29, 2016 at 6:06 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote roger555
kreg357 wrote:

"I have not officially done the factory reset, so it sounds like I do the factory reset then set to data mode before loading

the new firmware?" 

The Factory Reset won't harm the currently loaded firmware, it just clears everything.   Assuming the correct firmware is

already loaded, just Factory Reset, set Install Mode to Data and then do the Program to vehicle steps.

The relay wiring diagram will work OK.  Remember to connect the Vipers Violet Starter Output wire to the Pin 30 side of the
relay, not the Pin 87a side.

A few thoughts.  Using the Viper Orange GWA wire will give anti-grind when the default programming of Menu 2, Feature 9
is Option 1.  Additionally, it will prevent the car from starting with the key if the Viper is locked, which shouldn't be a problem
with the 4205V one button system because it has no ability to perform a lock function.  That being said, you could use the
unused Blue (-) 200mA Status Output wire as the relays' (-) input and do the same thing.  This would be anti-grind only.

Thanks Kreg. Just to clarify you are saying that I can use the GWA wire or the unused blue wire as the trigger for the relay diagram I posted?    Or this is in regards to another method without the relay.
Its surprising to me that a dedicated remote starter unit like this would not have a built in relay for anti grind. I guess the alarm has it more for the starter disable aspect.
Got my cord today so I'm about to start working on it soon, hopefully everything will go smoothly!!
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 29, 2016 at 6:27 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

Yes.  The relay diagram is good.  The relay trigger input can be Orange GWA, Blue Status Output or even thin Pink (-) 200mA Ignition output.  With the 4205V any of those 3 will give you anti-grind.  ( Not to muddy the waters, but using the last two options ( Blue or Pink wires ), the relays Pin 86 input could be just a +12V constant, too. )

Typically only alarm systems from Directed provide an internal relay for Starter Kill ( and optionally anti-grind ).  The more basic 4205V does not have this feature built in.

Soldering is fun!
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 29, 2016 at 6:40 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
When you connect the ADS USB cable to the PC and the bypass module, the first screen will show you the currently
loaded firmware.  If it is not DBI, then you can go through the process to select DBI 2 way and flash the module. 
Additionally you can set some options and advanced features if necessary.  Re-flashing the module is pretty much the
same thing as a Factory Reset but I still like to do the Factory Reset, Install Mode selection & lock in prior to vehicle
programming with the ignition key.
Soldering is fun!
roger555 
Copper - Posts: 76
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Joined: July 24, 2009
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: January 29, 2016 at 7:00 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote roger555
kreg357 wrote:
When you connect the ADS USB cable to the PC and the bypass module, the first screen will show you the currently
loaded firmware.  If it is not DBI, then you can go through the process to select DBI 2 way and flash the module. 
Additionally you can set some options and advanced features if necessary.  Re-flashing the module is pretty much the
same thing as a Factory Reset but I still like to do the Factory Reset, Install Mode selection & lock in prior to vehicle
programming with the ignition key.
Got it all programmed with the DBI-HA3 firmware a few minutes ago.   Pretty easy process and it was not even programed to the ADS-HA3!! Something completely wrong I don't remember exactly .   
So something unexpected just happened. I was showing my wife the two little viper remotes for the remote start, She said can I press it and I said ya sure then I hear her car out in the driveway with the lights on cranking up trying to start!!!   I did not expect this at all because the iDatalink is still on the table in the kitchen. The car never actually started, it didn't sound like it was cranking quite long enough . Also I thought the alarm should go off however she hadn't locked the car with the fob so maybe it worked because it wasent armed.
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 29, 2016 at 7:22 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Without a bypass module supplying the transponder info, the car cranked with the green immobilizer key light on the instrument cluster but won't start.  You should run in Tach Mode after you program the bypass to the car and do the Tach Learn.
Soldering is fun!
roger555 
Copper - Posts: 76
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Joined: July 24, 2009
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: January 29, 2016 at 10:44 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote roger555
Success! Everything seems to be working with the remote start. The defrost doesn't seem to be triggering though, need to investigate.
mscguy 
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Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posted: January 29, 2016 at 11:37 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mscguy
How did you wire the defrost?
Edit:Nvm. Just noticed its on your picture on the first page.
Assuming you changed the programming to defrost, Is it cold enough to trigger it? 55F or below.
More than likely the indicator won't turn on since you're triggering just the relay. You can check your 2nd status wire with your dmm to see if it's turning on.
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 30, 2016 at 12:13 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

Late edit here too.  Think the Forum is running slow...

MSCGuy has it covered, my info below is just a duplicate...

Re : Rear Defrost

Did you program the Viper for Defrost - Latched output?  The Blue/White wire will go to a (-) latched output 10 seconds
after a successful remote start.  On your TSX, it probably won't turn on the Defrost ON light at the dash panel control
but the defrost grid will indeed be getting power.  You can verify the Vipers (-) output on this wire with a DMM.  If there
is no frost on the rear window, you can verify the grid is on with a DMM at the window grid connectors (+).

Soldering is fun!
roger555 
Copper - Posts: 76
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2009
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: January 30, 2016 at 8:17 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote roger555
Ahh ok I was expecting to see the light, on my TL I wired it right to the momentary defrost switch so the light comes on.
I do have the blue/white wire programmed to a latched output so its probably working I just need some frost. This remote start doesn't have a thermometer option so the temperature shouldn't matter.
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