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2005 CVPI with Autopage C3-RS1100


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tagree6w 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: February 01, 2016
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: May 24, 2016 at 12:58 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tagree6w
Hello! This is my first time installing a system like this. I feel as though I have most of the main wires connected and working properly. I already ran my siren, shock sensor, LED light, and antenna. My remotes connect and arm my alarm, the shock sensor works.
My absolute MAIN FOCUS at this point in the install is to get the doors to unlock/lock with the arm/disarm. The harness on the RS-1100 has 3 wires,
-Blue: (-)unlock pulse,(+) lock pulse output
-Red: +12volt output
-Green: (+)unlock pulse,(-) lock pulse output
I was on here and saw a post that explained exactly where the unlock/lock wires were. My lock motor is pink / YELLOW and unlock is pink/green. They stated my car didn't come with keyless, so i need to use SPDT relays to reverse polarity. For a joke, I connected the wires normally to the motors to see if it would unlock them, it did not. After this test, I wired up 2 relay's as follows.
87: 12volt constant
87a: wire from door switch
30: wire to actuator
85: -lock output from alarm
86: constant 12volt
I still cannot get the doors to unlock/lock. It might be worth mentioning I am not sure where the 12volt output from this 3 wire harness goes. during the initial hookup without relays, I did not use it. when I hooked the relay's up, I used this as their 12volt+.
I have yet to run my Tach because I am under the assumption I must tap into a fuel injector or coil. I also have an automatic and can't find my Neutral safety switch. However, I did notice a wire the cops had attached to the top of my brake, Could that be my neutral safety for an auto?
As stated, My MAIN ISSUE is the locking. if you can help with my remote start issue, I appreciate that. but im still studying everything on that so i don't feel as though I personally hit a stopping point. however, this locking thing is annoying and i've been looking everywhere on this site and bugging my local dealer. Thank you in advance.
tagree6w 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: February 01, 2016
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: May 24, 2016 at 1:00 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tagree6w
I should also mention, The forum I found in here told me to wire 1 relay to my lock, and 1 to my unlock. They also asked I cut my wires in half when I connect them to the relay
davep. 
Gold - Posts: 639
Gold spacespace
Joined: May 27, 2011
Location: California, United States
Posted: May 24, 2016 at 11:48 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote davep.
Next time use "2005 Crown Victoria" for vehicle description. Acronyms don't mean anything to people that haven't heard them before. I thought it was a Ford, because the wire colors look familiar.
I read your post 4 times. You wired it correctly. The locks should work.
Do the relays click when you activate the alarm / RKE? (they should).
If you put the car-side wire (should be terminal 87) to B+, does it lock or unlock? (It should).
Do the locks work correctly from both door switches with the relays installed? (If no, the relays are wired incorrectly).
If you jumper the blue and green wires to ground, do the locks work? (they should).
There's some ideas for your Crown Victoria Police Interceptor.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 25, 2016 at 5:56 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Hopefully you didn't hurt the RS1000 with your current wiring. The Red +12V output wire in that 3 Pin Door Lock harness
is not suitable for your needs. It is only for low current applications. Run the +12V input wire that supplies your
external SPDT lock relays to a suitable source ( like the Red or Light GREEN/ Purple wires in the main ignition harness )
through a +15 Amp fuse and then try the tests suggested by Dave.
Additionally, you might consider inserting a 1N4001 diode with the band towards the RS1100 in to the lock and unlock
output wires going to Pin 85 of the relays. For additional RS1100 protection, adding a 1N4004 or 1N4007 diode across
Pin 85 to 86 of the relays with the band towards Pin 86 will prevent any damage from a "coil collapse" pulse.
Soldering is fun!

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