Troubleshoot audiovox prestige aps 785

Hi everyone, I had to replace my internal fuse box/multiplex unit on my 2003 Honda Accord LX. I disconnected the battery, replaced the fuse box, reconnected the battery... Everything seems to work except my car alarm. Is it a matter of reprogramming the alarm (I hope)? If so, how do I do it? I tried to access it by pressing the button under dash 3 times, but I haven't received the chirp confirmation... The lock button on the remote works sometimes (unlock works rarely), the LED blinks like crazy... Please help... Aha - it's Audiovox Prestige APS 785. Thank you in advance for any help.

Did you have the key turned to the run position when you pressed the button 3 times?

Yes, I did. When I wanted to open my car today, I had to use the key unlock button, not the alarm remote unlock button. So I opened the door, got in - the LED was blinking 3 times all the time. I turned the key to run position, press the valet button 3 times... after the 2 time I heard the central lock unlocking the doors, and the LED stopped blinking. Then I tried the lock/unlock buttons on the remote - they worked but only when the car doors were wide open. If I shut them completely the lock/unlock on the remote doesn't work. Now, I tried accessing programming the alarm, so I turned the key to run position, pressed the valet button three times, I saw the LED flashed one time, I pressed the channel 1 button on the remote, I didn't get the chirp (only heard the central lock), I pressed the valet button once, the LED flashed 2 times, pressed the channel 2 button on the remote, nothing happened, I pressed the valet button once, the LED flashed 3 times, pressed the channel 3 button on the remote, again nothing happened... no chirp, nothing. At the end the LED blinked couple times. Then when I tried the lock/unlock on the remote - nothing...

Cezaryt- I suspect a poor connection. I would double check both red power lead connections, the ignition connection and the ground of the APS785. If those connections are solid, confirm the fuses are good. You may want to reset the APS 785 anyway by removing and re-installing the fuses. Lectric Guy

You lost ignition

i am an idiot wrote: You lost ignition

What do you mean? I've taken off steering column covers, and it looks like nothing's changed.

Lectric Guy, Thank you for your post. The fuses are good. I've removed both, the 2 and the 30 and they look to be ok. I've checked the red wire, removed the insulation, and the connection is pretty solid (btw, it's connected to the white wire - go figure - which goes to the fuse box/multiplex). I've attempted to access programming again. It looked like I've successfully programmed one remote, even though there was not "chirp" confirmation, BUT the lock/unlock works only with the drivers doors open. Once I shut the door, lock buttons on the remote works only the first time; unlock doesn't work at all... which doesn't make sense. I've also noticed that sometimes the LED blinks, but the blinking is fading. Also, when I disconnected the battery, and reconnected it, the alarm should sound (it didn't), but instead the LED was flushing continuously. When I tried to start the engine remotely, the LED was flushing, and you could hear the clicking, but the engine didn't start (then I've turned the switch off - I don't want to have any problems)... Anyway, nothing makes sense to me... I'm so close to giving up...

With the ignition switch in the on position the unit will enter programming mode when you press the valet switch 3 times. With the ignition switch in the on position the alarm will not arm. It is arming when you press the lock button. It should not do that. The alarm does not know you have the key in the on position. It lost Ignition. Use a volt meter to make sure there is 12 volts on the yellow wire of the alarm when the key is in the on position.

cezaryt- These are the "basic" power connections that must be present for the system to work. These connections supply power to the brain and all the circuits of the APS785: There are 2 red wires with fuses---These need to see 12V constant. These wires provide power to the brain and outputs.   There is a blue ignition wire in the 6 pin harness--This needs 12V when the key is in the "On", "Run" and "Start" positions. This wire controls programming and remote start mode information for the brain.   Your black ground needs a solid ground connection to chassis metal (no paint). This is required--please note this may be a different ground connection point from your bypass ground depending on the install.   Please confirm all these connections with a voltmeter.     Lectric Guy

Gents, First of all - thank you very much for your help. Second - I have a good news - the alarm works! :-))) I don't know how or why, but it works. I was away for a week, and yesterday when I tried to use the remote, I noticed that it armed as it used to (with a chirp). Disarming didn't worked, but I was able to get to the programming mode and programmed all four remotes. I tested them, and all of them worked. Even the remote starter. Again, I don't know how it happened... but last week, I took all the related covers (from the kick panel, steering column, etc.) and I pushed all plugs into the fuse box, alarm units, etc... following your advise of bad connection. It looks like it helped. Once again - thank you very much for your help.