verify this remote start install, 03 Excursion

Just got the vehicle back from my mechanic and visually things look great, but there are some issues I want to figure out. There was existing RS installed before, wires cut, bad splices, 1 existing relay left in, etc. Instructions were not clear enough on 1 vs 2 keys required and couple other things. RS worked great at first, now doesn't. I think it's the bypass module problem. So it's 2003 Ford Excursion with 6.0 diesel, factory keyless entry and looked like no factory RS or alarm (conflicting wiring information because '03 was year change from 7.3 to 6.0, 2004 Excursion diagrams were used for most part) Omega/Excalibur RS360EDP+ 1-way remote start Omega OL-IB-FMTL bypass module RS wiring as is: 6pin power harness: Accessory (+) Output - ORANGE => RED / BLACK ignition harness Ignition #1 (+) Input/Output - PINK => WHITE/ YELLOW ignition harness Start (+) Output - VIOLET => GREEN ignition harness Constant 12v (+) Input - RED => YELLOW ignition harness Ignition #2 (+) Output - PINK/WHITE => N/A Constant 12v (+) Input - RED / WHITE => LT.GREEN/ PURPLE ignition harness 14wire harness: Remote Start Activation (-) Input - WHITE/ BLUE => N/A (EDP+ MODELS ONLY) Status / Anti-grind (-) Output - ORANGE => N/A (EDP+ MODELS ONLY) Alarm Ign. Control (+) Output - YELLOW => N/A Flashing Light (-) Output - WHITE/ BLACK => N/A OEM Alarm Arm (-) Output - GREEN/ RED => N/A Trunk Release/CH2 (-) Output - RED / WHITE => N/A System Ground (-) Input - BLACK => body grround OEM Alarm Disarm (-) Output - GREEN/ BLACK => N/A Horn (-) Output - BROWN => BLUE under steering wheel, yellow jacket Hood Trigger (-) Input - GRAY => N/A Brake (+) Input - BROWN / RED => LT.GREEN brake pedal switch Tach Input - VIOLET/WHITE => N/A Flashing Light (+) Output - WHITE => BROWN headlight switch Neutral Safety (-) Input - BLACK/ WHITE => body ground 3pin lock port: 3 PIN DOOR LOCK PORT Lock (-) Output - GREEN => WHITE/ RED driver's kick panel Constant 12v (+) Output - Empty Pin Unlock #1 (-) Output - BLUE => BLACK/ WHITE driver's kick panel Black data port => to black data port on bypass module 3 PIN SAT. RELAY PORT (RED) => not used Green Data Port => not used OL-IB-FMTL wiring as is: Data port => data port on RS IGNITION (+) INPUT - PINK => WHITE/ YELLOW ignition harness ECM TX - GRAY/RED => GRAY/RED PATS pigtail green connector ECM RX - GREEN/ RED => RED / BLACK PATS pigtail green connector Before we head to the issues, does it look OK?

Connect pink/wht to gry / YELLOW at ignition switch and program "flex relay" for accy if you want the HVAC to work with R/Start. I found both 7.3 and 6.0 diagrams for 2003. Both engines were available that year. None of those PATS wire colors are on the diagrams I pulled up. So I can't verify you got the bypass correct.

It's a 6.0 - if you could post the diagrams, it would be great. Again, I found conflicting info because of engine change that year, so any clarification would be helpful. Thanks for advice on ignition #2 wire. Does it require an additional relay? One thing I just noticed is that the tach wire is not hooked up. I believe it was programmed as virtual tach or something like that, but would hooking it up (to lt.GREEN / WHITE behind brake release?) make it start better? Is there any way to extend the crank time past 2.25 seconds? I am really not planning yet to replace my batteries and starter and just know that it takes longer to start it in cooler weather.

I don't repost copyrighted material, not to mention it's cumbersome and time consuming. Your current pressing issue appears to be with the PATS and bypass. The wire colors in the diagrams I found, and what you posted are completely different. Not sure how to help if the correct wire colors can't be determined. You should use the tach. Probably the Wait to Start input too, although the 6-uh-ohs start a little quicker than the 7.3's. The DEI's have a 4.5 second crank option. Doesn't mean yours does. I've noticed on my DEI and 7.3 that if it hasn't been run for a few weeks, the first RS will have a short crank, no start. Then it tries again, and cranks the 3-4 seconds that it takes to wake it up after prolonged sitting. Then it reliably R/S's every time until it again sits. Never figured out why it does this. I have both tach and WTS inputs hooked up and programed.