the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

06 Pontiac G6 Avital 5303/DBall2 confused


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
liam66 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: April 05, 2016
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: July 14, 2016 at 10:38 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote liam66
06 Pontiac G6 Avital 5303/DBall2 confused -- posted image.06 Pontiac G6 Avital 5303/DBall2 confused -- posted image.
Hey guys, ran into a snag here, could use some help. This is the Avital 5303 and DBall2 for a 2006 Pontiac G6. In the pic you'll see a purple circle that shows what looks like a connection between dball (+) ignition input and starters (+) ignition output and then out to the ignition switch. Considering all broken blue lines are not required, how do I read that connection? Also the dball2 pic shows the starters ignition as an "output" and the starter pic shows the ignition as an "input". I'm hoping someone can sort this out for me, thanks.
lurch228 
Silver - Posts: 1,338
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2012
Posted: July 14, 2016 at 11:56 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote lurch228
When using D2D the remote start output is not needed to trigger the DBALL2 which is what the blue segmented line does in a hardwired install. It being done through data instead. The DBALL2 is showing the connections at the relay pack output. And the remote start is showing the connections at the brain before the relay pack(Ribbon cable to relay pack). Which allows the key power to be sensed to enable user to enter programming modes and also disarm with out remote if need be.
liam66 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: April 05, 2016
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: July 16, 2016 at 10:25 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote liam66
lurch228 wrote:
When using D2D the remote start output is not needed to trigger the DBALL2 which is what the blue segmented line does in a hardwired install. It being done through data instead. The DBALL2 is showing the connections at the relay pack output. And the remote start is showing the connections at the brain before the relay pack(Ribbon cable to relay pack). Which allows the key power to be sensed to enable user to enter programming modes and also disarm with out remote if need be.
Thanks for replying Lurch, appreciate it. What your saying then is that I don't need the ignition wire from either, if I'm reading it right. If that's the case then I only need the brown accessory wire to the ignition switch? This pic is the heavy gauge relay that came with it, I think I read on a forum (I've read so many I can't remember) that because of d2d I don't need it either, is that true? All the black lines in the xpresskit pic is what I have done so far. I'm installing the start only and not the alarm. Parking lot at work is a fair distance away from locker room and I only want to start it from there. If you don't mind helping me out with this that would be great.
06 Pontiac G6 Avital 5303/DBall2 confused -- posted image.
lurch228 
Silver - Posts: 1,338
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2012
Posted: July 16, 2016 at 1:34 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote lurch228
All solid wires in the DBALL2 will need to be connected. Will need the H/3, H/5, H/6 for remote start. Your vehicle uses acc drop out to start crank sequence. So the Pink H/6 ignition wire is also needed from the alarm/remote start.
liam66 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: April 05, 2016
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: August 20, 2016 at 12:03 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote liam66
lurch228 wrote:
All solid wires in the DBALL2 will need to be connected. Will need the H/3, H/5, H/6 for remote start. Your vehicle uses acc drop out to start crank sequence. So the Pink H/6 ignition wire is also needed from the alarm/remote start.
Hi Lurch, I have been working on this a little bit at a time, too busy but I finally went at it and hit a wall again, I'm close I think. I watched a video on YouTube from Lessco so I emailed him a couple questions since he knows these Avitals which he did reply. There was too much to type so that is why I made a short video after work so he knows what I'm talking about which is a lot easier. https://youtu.be/2MNi8Rb2ySw His last suggestion was to try this " gwr means "ground when running", that should be connected to a -negative 2nd ignition at the 5303l. Give that a go." I don't see a 2nd ignition at the Avital so I asked about it and no reply anymore, chances are he blew me off, no big deal. Check this out if you don't mind and let me know what you think, thanks.
Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
lurch228 
Silver - Posts: 1,338
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2012
Posted: August 20, 2016 at 1:51 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote lurch228
If you vehicle didn't come from Pontiac dealer with remote start already then you need a full aftermarket remote start install.
It looks like you have misunderstood what is needed to remote start your vehicle. If the vehicle has OEM factory remote start then you don't need all the extra wires that are needed to remote start a vehicle that doesn't have OEM factory remote start. The DBALL2 is capable of communicating with the OEM factory remote start and starting the vehicle If it has it. If you had OEM factory remote start you wouldn't need the 5303 unless you wanted to eliminate the OEM factory remote start limitations like 10 min. run time, and 2 remote starts limit before having to insert key to reset. For aftermarket control of OEM remote start you would need the DBALL2, XL202,and either the 6211t and compatible remote or the 6711t and compatible remote.
For complete aftermarket remote start install-(All Ribbon cable wires) should be hooked up between the H3 relay satellite pack and the main 5303 unit, as they are control wires to activate the relays of the relay satellite pack. As the Acc. and Ign. need to be powered up by the 5303 to achieve remote start (H3 heavey guage wires).
Battery RED / WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS to H3/3,H3/5     
Ignition 1   PINK     (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS to H3/6     
Accessory 1 BROWN     (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS to H3/4
Also have you read and programmed the DBALL2 per the Programming: Type 2 instructions. If you have tried and it failed you will need to reset the DBALL2 per the instructions. Then start by following the Module Programming (D2D Installation) connect plugs in order listed first then proceed to (Programming: Type 2 instructions)
Once you have this resolved post back.
liam66 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: April 05, 2016
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: August 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote liam66
Hey Lurch, I loved something up, hopefully an easy fix. I finally found some time to get back at this a couple days ago and try what you suggested, and then HELL YA! it fired up, then quit. I connected the remote start ribbon between the relay and 5303, then relay H3&H5 to constant 12v, relay H6 positive out to ignition switch and since brown accessory was plugged into the dball, I disconnected it from there and connected to relay H4 accessory. Since the ignition and accessory wires are a lot smaller than the heavy gauge relay, I separated the heavy gauge wires at the end to make a 1/3 of the wire to solder to. I programmed the 5303 to menu 3 #1 (4) tachometer then learned the tach with key starting, didn't work, menu 3 increased cranking time to 2.0, still didn't work, I reprogrammed/relearned the dball and that didn't work. So I read somewhere on this forum that a guy programmed menu 3 # (2) voltage and worked for him, so I tried it and that's when the bad doodie happened. It briefly started then shut down, dash lights / headlights flickering then chattering sounds like under powered relays and then the infamous starter solenoid shatter. I checked all the relays under hood and battery still has 12.74 volts, everything still works, windows, radio, OEM remote etc. When I try to start, seconds only it feels like it wants to start but not anymore, all it does now is all chattering. Finding the source is tricky, I definitely feel the chatter at the throttle body mostly but also at the solenoid and at the coil pack unless it's an echo off the firewall. To me it sounds like a fried relay somewhere I don't know to look, what do you think?
Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
liam66 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: April 05, 2016
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: August 25, 2016 at 7:39 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote liam66
liam66 wrote:
Hey Lurch, I loved something up, hopefully an easy fix. I finally found some time to get back at this a couple days ago and try what you suggested, and then HELL YA! it fired up, then quit. I connected the remote start ribbon between the relay and 5303, then relay H3&H5 to constant 12v, relay H6 positive out to ignition switch and since brown accessory was plugged into the dball, I disconnected it from there and connected to relay H4 accessory. Since the ignition and accessory wires are a lot smaller than the heavy gauge relay, I separated the heavy gauge wires at the end to make a 1/3 of the wire to solder to. I programmed the 5303 to menu 3 #1 (4) tachometer then learned the tach with key starting, didn't work, menu 3 increased cranking time to 2.0, still didn't work, I reprogrammed/relearned the dball and that didn't work. So I read somewhere on this forum that a guy programmed menu 3 # (2) voltage and worked for him, so I tried it and that's when the bad doodie happened. It briefly started then shut down, dash lights / headlights flickering then chattering sounds like under powered relays and then the infamous starter solenoid shatter. I checked all the relays under hood and battery still has 12.74 volts, everything still works, windows, radio, OEM remote etc. When I try to start, seconds only it feels like it wants to start but not anymore, all it does now is all chattering. Finding the source is tricky, I definitely feel the chatter at the throttle body mostly but also at the solenoid and at the coil pack unless it's an echo off the firewall. To me it sounds like a fried relay somewhere I don't know to look, what do you think?
LMAO! I typed loved and it auto corrected to love
Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
liam66 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: April 05, 2016
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: August 25, 2016 at 7:41 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote liam66
it did it again........06 Pontiac G6 Avital 5303/DBall2 confused -- posted image.
Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
liam66 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: April 05, 2016
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: August 25, 2016 at 7:43 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote liam66
I assume forum doesn't like swearing
Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
Page of 3

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Friday, March 29, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer