1990 Chevrolet K1500 Z71 & Viper 5704

Key crank is much longer than remote start. Programmed for 4 seconds but never seems to get close to that long of a crank time. All fuses good.

I wonder if you have low oil pressure problem or bad oil pressure sender causing the crank time to take longer than usual. Have you tried setting the Menu 3 - Remote star Menu Item 14 to "increase" to see if it will crank long enough to start. In Tach Mode the "Cranking Time" Setting is not used. Only for Voltage sense or Off is the cranking time used. If that don't work try my next step. Try going to voltage sense for Tach and then set crank time to see if it starts that way. With voltage sense crank time will be adjustable and if over adjusted it will continue to crank even after engine has started until set time has passed. Some GM designs have a minimum oil pressure to close the ignition or injector circuit, if their is a issue with the sender then crank time can be longer than usual. And tach output may be enough while R/S is rolling over motor to trigger the crank sequence to stop because it thinks vehicle has started. It's normal to have a voltage drop under load, 9 vots seems a little low recheck your H3/6 Red and H3/9 RED / Black connections too the 2 Constant battery POS wires of the vehicle also make sure the unit has a good ground location. As a iffy main unit ground can cause all kids of weird issues. If Voltage sense cranks long enough to start and the connections are well made then I would look at the oil sender. If it has any oil on it or in the electrical connector when you unplug it replace it. Hope this helps.

Starter now cranks long enough to start. Seems like no spark. The oil sender has been replaced, but for twenty dollars and fifteen minutes, will try and solve the problem with its replacement. Fires up first crank still with key. This truck has been mine since day one and has been given much love. Oil pressure is fairly accurate at the gauge, but like I said, persistence usually pays off. Will check all the grounds again. The bit writer is key. Programming based on the number of times a button is pushed may not be the most accurate endeavor. Like I said earlier, determined to make this work. Thanks again for the help.

Now that it cranks long enough, turn the key to the on Run position and try and Remote start. Does it start? If so then their is a +12v feed problem from the R/S "H3 Pink" to ignition vehicle wire "Pink".

Also how did you connect to the heavy gauge vehicle wires? Did you use T-taps or did you strip back insulation? If T-taps were used you could have a poor connection that gives good voltage reading with no load but drops out due to high resistance.

Stripped back the insulation with a tool. Used a poker to make a loop. Wrapped wire around bare wire at least four or five turns. Soldered. Taped. Zip tied. I hope that part is solid, but will check the wires indicated. Then will test with key. Thanks for the help and I am going to prevail. With help!

You got starter crank with R/S so if it starts with key on via R/S crank then it's a current issue with the R/S H3 Pink wire Circuit. If H3 Pink is the issue the a work around is to use the H3 Pink/White for Ignition power and also hook up the H3 RED / White to power it. And see if the issue is resolved. Then you can check the resistance on the H3 Pink wire from Plug to Vehicle harness to rule out bad Pink wire, otherwise it's a internal connection or relay issue. Then it's a matter of either replacing the Bad component with the seller or buying it yourself. If it turns out to be the relay in brain and your stuck replacing the main Brain unit yourself a 1 way Alarm/Remote Start brain or complete system in the same series will be a exact replacement - Models Viper 5104 Clifford 510.4X Python 514 In any given series they use the exact same brain for 1-way 2-way LE or 2-way SST Alarm/Remote Start just different antenna and remotes. If you want to retain the same Brand Name and/or Model# just pull the 4 screws and swap the outer plastic case from brain to brain. You will also need to program the current remotes to the new brain, 1-way companion first then 2-way LCD remote. Everything else will be a plug and play swap.

Key on. Started like a champ with a little starter overrun. Will check wire connection for my error, and if that looks good , I will go through the steps mentioned above. KREG helped me put this model alarm in a vehicle I gave my son a few years back. I purchased one for the truck a couple years ago and my mom got sick a continent away. That ate up a lot of project time. No Warranty. Do you have a preference of those listed above? If it matters, I already have the bit writer. I actually enjoy the programming and wiring, but just would like to use the existing accessories with minimal effort at this point. The error part of "trial and error" is how I do most of my learning, but I want to finish this project.

Hooked the two wires up, made sure the flex relay was programmed correctly, nothing. Key on, started right up. Just to try all angles, went to program tach, nothing. It has programmed almost instantly before we tried the other methods to get it started. I am convinced the brain is the issue unless you think a reset deletion and reprogram will work. I tried this on three previous occasions. If I need to buy a new alarm, what is the latest and greatest. Is there a model that works well with an iPhone? I like the two way features and programming options. Willing to pay to complete my project. Or is the above mentioned models brain swap my best fix. The truck has been properly maintained and besides tires has cost me less than a thousand dollars. I am willing to spend the money to complete the project with some extras. I am running three sensors, the window and door modules, and a snake that blinds me flashing at night. Any suggestions with regards to the products you have installed? The site is awesome and will be receiving another donation for all the help it has offered. I found myself reading about issues that are unrelated to my install. I like the problem resolution aspect. Thanks again.

One last thing to try is to delete all remotes pull all power from unit, then repower and program remotes back to see it it make a difference some have had luck doing this! All the listed models are made by DEI and use the same plug count wire count and internally are identical. Just different branding and model# for all three. Same goes for the 2-way LE Respopnder and the SST like you have. One brain for 9 different units. You can use the LCD remote from the Clifford or Python to replace you Viper remote, just different plastic external casing. If you buy any of the above 1-way alarm/remote start and use you antenna and remotes, it's exactly the same as the model you bought. If it's the H3 Red OR the H/3 Pink that is the issue. You can get those from any DEI Remote start H3 harness even the 6 pin 8 pin or 10 pin ones. Remove the needed wire from the plastic plug using a small flat eye glass or jewelers screw driver to bend the tang flat and pull it out, bend it back out and insert it into the plug. If it's the brain its plug and play other than programming remotes. If you don't care that the brain has Python or Clifford on it and you remotes Say Viper then do nothing but swap wire plugs to new unit and program remotes like I said above.