Train horn relay switch

Hi, this diagram shows connection to factory horn I assume. What I want to do is wire it to a push button which is what I've drawn to look like one, in the circle I also assume is to be ignored if going to that switch. I have the hardware installed and wired to relays but I know nothing about relays, so if someone can help me to wire the switch in, that would be great.Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

The diagram shows a +12v horn output. 7 is the connection to original horn cut side, center is the steering wheel side of cut wire, and left goes to positive side of relays. If you vehicle horn output is (=) negative then you would have to swap current 86 relay grounds for +12 constant battery. 85 and 86 are coil that magneticly closes the contact between 30 and 87. If you don't want to cut or use the factory horn wire if it is (-) negative and use the additional push button instead then you would wire push button to +12v battery and the other side to shared 85 connection between relays.

lurch228 wrote: The diagram shows a +12v horn output. 7 is the connection to original horn cut side, center is the steering wheel side of cut wire, and left goes to positive side of relays. If you vehicle horn output is (=) negative then you would have to swap current 86 relay grounds for +12 constant battery. 85 and 86 are coil that magneticly closes the contact between 30 and 87. If you don't want to cut or use the factory horn wire if it is (-) negative and use the additional push button instead then you would wire push button to +12v battery and the other side to shared 85 connection between relays.

Thanks for replying, it is negative and separate from factory, is this correct? Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

Yes to the bottom diagram though for various reasons I'd take the ground sides (incorrectly marked as 86 BTW, should be the other way round) through a switch to ground.

Seems to be a real problem with the Chinese branded products having the relay coil labeled in reverse from the standard but is pre-wired in the horn harness that way.

lurch228 wrote: Seems to be a real problem with the Chinese branded products having the relay coil labeled in reverse from the standard but is pre-wired in the horn harness that way.

Surprisingly these aren't Chinese unlike almost everything else we're stuck with buying, they were made in Italy which played a big part in buying them, they do produce good quality products. The only instructions it came with is what you see and box claims to be an easy install, hardware and running wires yes, connections not so easy at least for me, I've never had to work with relays. So the 85 & 86 are labeled incorrectly but the wiring is still the same?Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

Without seeing them it could just be labeled wrong as stand convention is 85 ground and 86 coil. They will work either way as long as there is no quenching diode accross relay, Like is used on starter kill relay applications.

No reason for a diode so we should be OK, either FIAMM or Maserati brand at a guess, quality product but Italian car electrics? My version of a curse would be to do the electrics in a Fiat dealership.

Just make sure that the pueh button you want to add is wired to the non ground side of the joined relays and the button is fed +12v like howie II drew in the diagram.