BMW 556uw bypass wiring

malevolent wrote: The foot break BMW BROWN / white with the GTS BLACK/ white(13)and I have a relay white is hooked up again to ignition 2 BMW purple wire..no result. relay is functioning as intended. Am I not tapping into the correct ACC wire? GTS blue to BMW ignition 1 (green)?

Since you vehicle has no ACC it won't be used and can be taped off. Order of ignition wires shouldn't matter if they do the exact same thing in every position including the start position. but following the standard is always best. GTS IGN1 to Green, and GTS IGN2 Relay 30 to Purple, 86 and 87 to constant Battery +12v, and 85 to C3/13 White IGN2 output (-). Relay diagram is labeled backwards for 85 and 86 from the standard convention!

Remember to change the IGN2 to enabled so it matches the key cylinder.

Just a small wiring update..(mostly for my own piece of mind) GTS= Red --BMW Ignition Harness =RED / Green 12 Volt Constant. GTS= Blue ACC --Taped Off (not in use due to no ACC). GTS= Brown (Ign1)--BMW Ignition Harness =Purple (IGN 2). GTS= Orange (starter)--BMW Ignition Harness =BLACK/ Blue (Starter). GTS= PURPLE / white (start enable input-)-- BMW Clutch Pedal Harness. GTS= BLACK/ white (foot break)-- BMW foot break (+ when depressed). GTS= white (ign output)--BMW relay/purple wire (ign2) GTS= WHITE/ red (GWR) ---556UW=blue *note Relay will be rewired as you stated 556UW= jumper mode 2 556UW= antenna BLACK/ white & BLACK/ red (cut) BMW Transponder Ring side 556UW= antenna black (cut) BMW transceiver side 556UW= Black to ground 556UW= Red to constant 12volt 556UW= blue to GTS=WHITE/ red (GWR) 556UW= pink to BMW= green (ign1)

cant edit, but lets just say between you and me that I taped off the blue wire on the GTS and used the green wire (bmw ign1) and connected it to the brown GTS (ign 1) wire =P

When clutch is fully depressed the output needs to be (-) negative for it to work. Test with DMM on DC and 1 probe to ground and check for voltage on clutch wires, both without key in start(ON) and in start to verify polarity and output. If all clutch switch wires test positive when fully depressed you will need to convert the switched side output when fully depressed to negative with a relay. 85 and 87 to ground, 86 to (+)clutch out, and 30 to C3/14 PURPLE / White Start Enable Input (-).

I didn't get to double check the clutch yet, but I did change the relay and taped off the blue GTS acc wire...the results are....as soon as I press the button it goes into its on cycle the the egine start starts but it doesn't turn the engine over...so I say the bypass works. button is also acting different..not sure if it was intended...you now have to hold the button..displays on, then you have to press it again and engage the starter..if you let go it stops the starter...so depending on how long you hold the button the starter will keep trying to start the engine...hope that makes sence

Hold button for 1.5 seconds with no brake or clutch turns on the ignition. Repeat turn it off. From Off Apply brake and clutch and push and hold to crank until started.

Just tried what you said..it cranks, but doesn't want to start. the longer you hold it down the longer it cranks...just no engine start. I havent double checked the clutch or the foot break polarity.

IF it cranks then the clutch and brake requirements are being met as they won't stop the engine from starting if it cranks. So there is a bypass issue that is not de-activating the immobilizer allowing the injectors and/or the coil(s) to fire. If you hold the head of the key next to the key cylinder will it start.

Well your not going to believe this, I went ahead and tried it again and o realized I forgot to put the relay back in the relay harness....I must be tired. Regardless, went ahead and tried it again with the relay and no cranking this time. Took the relay off and still the same issue, no cranking. Going to check the wiring by the break pedal and the clutch just in case I snagged it while trying to test it.