2008 Escape DBALL2 Programming Issues

Where do you have the dballs ignition input pink wire wired to , it should be wired to the pink heavy gauge wire on the remote starter, I'm kinda coming to a loss why it won't program the Ford Escape is a easy car to do boguckialex

Yeah, that's exactly where its wired to. I dunno, how often does a dball fail? Maybe I'll order a new dball and an xk loader just so I can see for myself it's the right firmware.

I don't know the fail rate , as I don't use many of them, my preferable brand is fortin or the idatalink I've had issues with the dball to if you where 100% sure is wired properly and you where going to buy another bypass I would recommend the idatalink one as you won't have to change much wiring it's the same install type.boguckialex

Could you list your DBALL wire connection for the Black, Red, And Blue connector. List what each of the listed wires, (Type 1a),is connected to on the vehicle. I have used many DBALLs in my installs. Maybe I've been lucky with not having any issues. What model remote starter are you installing?When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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I have it set up as 1b now, It's paired with a Viper 5704. Blue connector: *Brown wire -> connected to red H1/1 on remote start *Yellow wire -> Pink ignition wire, H3/1 on remote start *ORANGE / Red -> Cut end of GREEN/ Purple in left driver kick panel *Yellow/Red -> Other cut end of GREEN/ Purple in left driver kick panel Red connector: *Gray/Black -> Orange accessory wire on remote start H3/3 then diode to Blue/Grey on vehicle ignition harness *Yellow/Black -> Yellow/Orange at key cylinder *ORANGE / Black -> Violet/Grey at key cylinder Black connector: *Pink -> Pink ignition wire, H3/1 on remote start (Same as yellow wire on the blue connector) Then the D2D cable, and as I mentioned before the remote start takes over control just fine if the vehicle is already running.

bogucki wrote: I don't know the fail rate , as I don't use many of them, my preferable brand is fortin or the idatalink I've had issues with the dball to if you where 100% sure is wired properly and you where going to buy another bypass I would recommend the idatalink one as you won't have to change much wiring it's the same install type.

I will look into those, and I really appreciate your help and responses today! I've put in 4 or 5 remote starters over the past 5 years and this is the first real pain in the butt one. All the others were with DBALL also and I guess I've just stuck with them for no real reason other then brand recognition and availability.

Just to verify. Your first post stated that the vehicle has no factory alarm, correct. If so I would wire it up as Type 1a, W2W. forget the D2D. its only 3 wires. I've only done a couple of DBALLs in D2D. Never had any issues with W2W mode. When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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smokeman1 wrote: Just to verify. Your first post stated that the vehicle has no factory alarm, correct. If so I would wire it up as Type 1a, W2W. forget the D2D. its only 3 wires. I've only done a couple of DBALLs in D2D. Never had any issues with W2W mode.

It doesn't have an alarm that I know of since we tried to get it to go off without any luck, however my friend (the owner) thought it did. I originally installed as 1a and had the programming issues and moved onto 1b just in case it does have an alarm but it didn't solve the problem. Would you suggest reverting back to 1a? Thank you for pointing out that W2W is only 3 extra wires, I don't know why I didn't take a look at that. We're going to dig into it again next week