2006 dodge ram st r/s

Hi, i'm new here and have been tinkering with a remote starter install, my first r/s install, on my 2006 dodge ram st. Its bare bones no power anything has no security to bypass so i went with the relay route. I'm installing a crime stopper sp-402 just wanted something cheap to make sounds and control the door lock actuators that i put in. The problem i'm having is with the accessory wire. I have everything hooked up and soldered. The problem i was originally having was the heater would turn on then off to start then wouldn't turn back on. I thought my resistances were wrong i am using a 610 ohm (614 ohm to be exact) resistor to ground. I've tested the line and came up with closer to 580 ohm's, however not sure if i did that right. Tried that one and it didn't work either. So i figured my problem was i needed to isolate the acc wire and followed directed doc 1084 to a t and now it wont turn the accessories on at all, i get a air bag light. I've checked the accessory wire coming from the remote start and it has power before and after ignition. I've read that you could use the PURPLE / orange wire instead of a resistor for the acc. Tried that and everything worked but now i have an abs light kicking on only when remote started and the truck will wait about 30 secs after i turn the r/s off with the key fob before it shuts down all the way. I'm at a loss for what to do next, i have checked all my connections and resistances and searched on the net for anything, about to give up and see if i can a data link to talk to the computer and go that route. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

The fact that initially the ACC turned on then off with start and then wouldn't turn back on is a classic sign of voltage drop. Are you measuring the resistor resistance with the relay included as it adds resistance to the connection. If there is a voltage drop through the Remote start unit that will throw it off too. Try measuring ACC resistance and Voltage of vehicle and compare to the resistance and voltage of R/S and adjust as needed to get a close match. If voltage thru R/S drops it will look like higher resistance to the computer.

I didn't even think of that, mostly because the second start wire is a 180 ohm through a relay on the same line and it was working fine. However that does make sense. I will check that when i get home from work and post what i find out. Thank you

No problem You have a range that will work and if 614ohms works until start then there is a enough of a voltage change to push it over or under the limit of the range!

I didn't have a chance to check this yesterday, have been fighting the flu. But today I checked the resistance on the relay and it wasn't much so i dropped my resistor down to 605 ohms and it works before crank and after crank now! I'm still learning most of this on my own and the help of this site but there was a voltage drop of a little over a volt. I have the exact voltage written down somewhere. One thing that was odd was the stereo was working the entire time before and after just no heat. Thanks again for the help. Looks like i need to go study ohms law.

Your welcome