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clifford 4105 problem


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mendozer 
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Posted: November 14, 2016 at 11:57 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mendozer
ok so I switched the locks to the BROWN / white and the GREEN/ YELLOW. It functions as in it unlocks and locks, but now the remote start doesn't activate. It cranks over then stalls out, but the dash remains on. I don't understand how that glitched the starting sequence.
mendozer 
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Member spacespace
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Posted: November 15, 2016 at 12:09 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mendozer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8I8kLcHKEQ8
does this mean I feed one tail of the diode Y like in the video to blue / YELLOW and the other to GREEN/ YELLOW then the bottom of the Y to the door unlock (blue) wire?
smokeman1 
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Posted: November 15, 2016 at 3:16 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote smokeman1
No start on the remote start. Try undoing the last change you did see if it remote starts or not.
If not, do the Remote Start Shutdown Diagnosis. The Status LED will flash a number of times to indicate why it shut down.
Relearn Tach signal?
Are your connections soldered or quick connect with t-taps or such.
The bulldog link shows a diagram for using the diodes.
Does this vehicle have a factory alarm?
Is it possible that you changed the Heavy Gauge Pink/White from Ignition to Accessory? with the button pressing? May have to get your DMM out to test the outputs of the 4105 to verify the function of the Ignition wires.
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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mendozer 
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Member spacespace
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Posted: November 15, 2016 at 4:10 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mendozer
All I switched was the locking wires nothing else. I'm going to check the mounting of the ground again to be sure. If still nothing I'll redo the locking wires to where they were. As for the thicker wires I'm pretty sure they're in there right since it started before. As for the led Las night it was just flashing continuously no pattern so the diagnostic was useless as it caps out at 8.
smokeman1 
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Posted: November 15, 2016 at 4:43 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote smokeman1
But, is it possible that you changer the Pink/White from Ignition 2 to Accessory? That could be your no start reason. Test the output of the Pink/White during the remote start sequence.
Try doing the shutdown diagnosis.
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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mendozer 
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Posted: November 15, 2016 at 4:50 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mendozer
I don't think so but I'll check. So what hook battery up then test multimeter into the harness pins? I don't really understand how to tset things without exposed wires like I test in the house
smokeman1 
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Posted: November 15, 2016 at 5:08 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote smokeman1
Put the red probe of your DMM on the Pink/White wire, black probe to chassis ground. Set DMM to dc volts. Activate remote start, pink/white wire should show a constant 12 volts as an ignition wire during starter cranking. As an accessory wire, it should show 12 volts and then drop,(to a lower voltage) during starter cranking.
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mendozer 
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Posted: November 15, 2016 at 5:37 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mendozer
Ok thanks. I didn't think it would read through the insulation
smokeman1 
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Posted: November 15, 2016 at 6:14 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote smokeman1
You have to pierce the insulation to the bare wire.
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mendozer 
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Member spacespace
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Posted: November 16, 2016 at 10:48 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mendozer
I grounded it better to the body with a screw. Then it wouldn't start at all. I checked wired and both pink/white and pink spike to 12v but neither stay bc the car doesn't actually start now. Not even with my key!
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