2000 ford F250, Avital 4105L remote start.

2000 F250 Diesel w/ factory keyless entry. I had ordered the 4103lx so I printed out the instructions for it and planned this out. What I received was the 4105l instead. I believe these systems are nearly identical but may be wrong. I've got most of the wiring mapped out but I'm hung up on a few details of conflicting info. Primary harness (H1) pin 1 lt grn/blk factory alarm disarm--n/a pin 2 grn/wht factory rearm--n/a pin 3 yel (+)ignition out (to alarm)--n/a pin 4 wht/blu (-)activation input--? pin 5 org (-)ground when locked--? pin 6 brn (-)horn output--dark blu at gray molex plug pin 7 RED / wht (-) trunk release--n/a pin 8 blk ground--under kick panel pin 9 wht (+/-) light flash--brn at light switch 4-pin satellite-- haven't found a reason to use this yet. Heavy gauge relay wiring 6pin all at ignition harness pin 1 pnk (+) (30amp) output to ignition--RED / blk larger of two pin 2 ppl (+) (30amp) output to starter--RED / lt blu pin 3 org (+) (30amp)output to accessory-- gray/yel pin 4 red (+) (30amp) high current 12v input--yellow pin 5 pnk/wht (+) programmable output acc or ignition--? pin 6 red (+) high current 12v input--connect with pin 4 to yellow Door lock, 3 pin This is where I'm a little confused. I have already setup a 5 wire alternating 12v positive door locks, with the two five pin relays that I have ready to install but through researching on the internet, I've been getting conflicting info. If I were to install right now, I would go with the (type-C)door locking setup. Please correct me if this isn't correct. Remote start harness 5 pin pin 1 (-) neutral safety switch input-- I would think this would be necessary but in all the write ups Iv'e seen that are similar to mine they have not used it. Can someone can explain this one to me? pin 2 tachometer input--wht/pnk at main harness pin 3 (+) brake switch shutdown-- lt grn at top of brake pedal pin 4 (-) pin switch-- seems flimsy and wasn't going to use if not necessary pin 5 (-) 200mA 2nd status/rear defogger output--n/a In some of the write-ups they mention using a relay setup at the ignition. I don't understand why or what type of relay setup it is. Other than that and the door locking setup, I feel pretty confident in this install. Any pointers and help in those general areas or anything you see or notice, please let me know. Here to learn and maybe someday teach.

Primary harness (H1) pin 1 lt grn/blk factory alarm disarm--n/a pin 2 grn/wht factory rearm--n/a pin 3 yel (+)ignition out (to alarm)--n/a pin 4 wht/blu (-)activation input--?        Not used pin 5 org (-)ground when locked--?  Not used pin 6 brn (-)horn output--dark blu at gray molex plug pin 7 RED / wht (-) trunk release--n/a pin 8 blk ground--under kick panel pin 9 wht (+/-) light flash--brn at light switch  Set jumper to (+) 4-pin satellite-- haven't found a reason to use this yet. Heavy gauge relay wiring 6pin all at ignition harness pin 1 pnk (+) (30amp) output to ignition--RED / blk larger of two pin 2 ppl (+) (30amp) output to starter--RED / lt blu pin 3 org (+) (30amp)output to accessory-- gray/yel pin 4 red (+) (30amp) high current 12v input--yellow pin 5 pnk/wht (+) programmable output acc or ignition--?     set to IGN2   BLACK/ Lt Green pin 6 red (+) high current 12v input--        Light GREEN/ Purple Door lock, 3 pin This is where I'm a little confused. I have already setup a 5 wire alternating 12v positive door locks, with the two five pin relays that I have ready to install but through researching on the internet, I've been getting conflicting info. If I were to install right now, I would go with the (type-C)door locking setup. Please correct me if this isn't correct. If your truck has Factory Remote Keyless Entry, you have Type B door locks. With Type B locks, you can connect directly from the 4105 to the trucks wires. Remote start harness 5 pin pin 1 (-) neutral safety switch input-- I would think this would be necessary but in all the write ups Iv'e seen that are similar to mine they have not used it. Can someone can explain this one to me?     Auto trans = connect to chassis ground pin 2 tachometer input--wht/pnk at main harness pin 3 (+) brake switch shutdown-- lt grn at top of brake pedal pin 4 (-) pin switch-- seems flimsy and wasn't going to use if not necessary         And they are prone to rust. Get a mercury tilt switch and install under hood hinge bolt. pin 5 (-) 200mA 2nd status/rear defogger output--n/a Soldering is fun!

I can't thank you enough. It's awesome having forums like this. I got all the ignition harness wired in. Hopefully I can wrap this project up in a day or two after work. Here to learn and maybe someday teach.

The install went great! ust need to get it programed and fix a known problem with my shift linkage. At first, after I finished the install, the ignition would come on then off three times but the truck would never attempt to turn over. Being frustrated, at that point I decided to call it a night. Well, about ten minutes later I remembered that every once in awhile I would have to lift up on my shift lever to get the truck to start. So I tried it again while holding the shift lever up and it worked. I can't thank you enough kreg357.Here to learn and maybe someday teach.

There's a common issue with those shifters. If you lay on your back looking up at the dash toward the left side of the truck you will see where the shifter cable connects. There is 2 torx bolts that come loose and cause your issue. Just reach up and tighten them up.If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe