remote start install, 2001 Chevrolet S10

Hello-- I got my son a remote start for Christmas. We live in the boonies of north central Montana. Not much close for installers. So were doing it ourselves. Its a Ready Remote by Directed, Model 24921B. The vehicle is a 2001 Chevrolet S10 V6. We installed it as per the limited instructions. The truck has primary and secondary ignition, which we wired to remote, primary and secondary accessory which we had to wire through relays as the remote only has one accessory wire. We wired tach wire to coil. We wire the 12v inputs of remote to 50 A 12v wire under column. Grounds are good. Everything is soldered. The alarm disarm is wired. Brake Safety is wired. Hood pin is wired. It came with a 556U bypass. Our truck will run just fine with a metal key made by the local hardware store. So not sure if it has any kind of coded key. But we went ahead and wired up bypass module. 12V, ground, and the blue (status output) to the blue status output on the remote. We hung the little antennae ring around the key like the diagram shows. The remote starter will engage the starter, crank the engine, the engine fires, the starter disengages, and the engine quits. It will start fine with the key. With the key in the ignition, the remote does the same thing.   As soon as it fires, the starter disengages and the engine quits. I even tried turning the key on and remote starting and the same thing happens. When I run the diagnostics on the remote it indicates a "low voltage/low RPM shutdown". I went through the proper procedures for "tach learning" and I changed the programming from the default "virtual tach" to "tach". I'm kind of running out of things to try. Any Ideas?It is not the critic that counts

Your S-10 has the Passlock2 immobilizer system. The 556UW is for transponder chip based immobilizer systems and won't work with Passlock2. Paslock2 disables the fuel pump. Without a correct bypass module, the engine will crank and possibly start using the remaining fuel in the rails but won't stay running. Look for a Passlock2 bypass module. There are many available but some are no longer in production, like the Directed 556LW.Soldering is fun!

That makes sense. Thank you very much. I will see what I can find.It is not the critic that counts

I have a couple questions, kreg357: why does our truck start with a non factory key? It's just a plain old metal key from Ace. Also, why won't it run when I start with remote start and key is in ignition and in the on position? I'm not questioning your diagnosis, just want to understand how this Passlock2 works.It is not the critic that counts

Valid question. The Passlock2 system uses a resistor than is contained in the ignition cylinder itself rather that a transponder chip in the ignition key head. If you remember the earlier GM VATS system, this resistor was mounted on the key itself and when inserted into the ignition cylinder, electronic contacts mated with the resistor to use this specific resistor value. With Passlock2 the internal resistor circuit is turned on when the key is in the ON position. If you noticed the install guide for the 556LW, it has wires that connect to the trucks Passlock2 wires in the steering column. The two wires are Reference and Resistance. The Yellow Resistance wire is the wire that the truck monitors to verify the correct value and enable the fuel system. With transponder based systems you can verify the R/S install by trying a remote start up with the ignition key held against the ignition cylinder. With Passlock2 that test doesn't work. Neither does inserting the key and turning it to ON if the vehicle is one of those that needs to see the Accessory wire drop out ( 12V to 0v ) during cranking. The only test you can do is the Idle Mode or PitStop Mode test. I'm not sure if your ReadyRemote 2491B system has that feature. This test would only verify some of your ignition wire connections. Hopefully you can exchange the 556UW for a Passlock2 bypass module.Soldering is fun!

I like the PLJX for Passlock Bypass.