2010 Civic Viper 4706V Dball2 unlock on RS (resolved)

Hey everyone! Sorry for any non-conformance in the forum - I'm a 1st time poster. Please help direct me as needed. I took a project on last year with ~95% success. But I don't use it, so it's a 100% loss and really need to recover from this. I believe I need a small amount of guidance to make this 100% successful... Please help! I have a 2010 Honda Civic Anto-trans (non-hybrid) that I installed, programmed, and fine-tuned with the XKloader2 (Honda4) and Bitwriter (running x2.9). Everything I wish to do works... I can remote start unlock/lock doors with remote. But I have a small issue with the remote start: It unlocks the doors, starts the car, but never re-locks the doors. This makes is rather useless (to me) as I will not use it this way. If someone were to open a door in the remote-started/unlocked mode, the factory alarm goes off. I have tried so many parameters with the bitwriter and have tried with and without the lock/unlock outputs from the dball2. Currently I have them connected but know if I disconnect them, I still can lock/unlock with the remote, so I figure it's using the CAN bus full time. I've read that maybe I need to install relays for lock and unlock connected directly to the door switch wires (lock, unlock, and common). If anyone could please nudge me in the right direction -OR- provide help (I'm willing to $$), PLEASE let me know. I'm in central PA close to Penn State. I'm willing to provide any additional information I may have omitted here - just ask. Thanks

Is it possible when the DBALL2 was flashed, the Smart OEM Alarm Control was set to the default setting which is ENABLE. There are three choices for the Smart OEM Alarm Control: Disable Safelock Enable (Default) I believe the Safelock feature unlocks the vehicle, remote start, and then relocks the vehicle. There is also the safelock feature in Menu 3, Item 16 of the 4706. Have not use it myself, but that's where I would go next.When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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Think the DB-ALL2 lock outputs to the Civics' lock wires must be connected. Have you verified that DB-ALL2 Feature 6 is set to Smart OEM Alarm Control = Enabled? If this doesn't work, have you tried the Safelock setting? I'm not a DB-ALL2 user and have never had any issues with the units I install so those are my only thoughts. A lot of Honda's with Factory Alarm systems must Unlock before and then relock after a R/S. DEI products make this difficult.Soldering is fun!

Ah, Mr. Smoke you beat me but we're traveling the same path...   Soldering is fun!

Kreg Happy New Year I only beat you by a millisecond I'm sure.When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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Thanks everyone! I will carefully review the options while programming and post another follow-up once I have time. Happy New Year!

Sorry for the delay in replying... I only have a couple of days a week available to work on this and the weather has not been cooperating :( I appreciate all input. It is nice to be able to get professional opinions quickly and help direct me to locate the issue. With [your] input, I learned my issue was not common and I concluded that there is something wrong or something I am missing. So I went back to the lock/unlock wiring to make sure I have it right. From previous troubleshooting, I had left the wires disconnected so I knew I had to reconnect them to try all the programming settings as advised. This time I didn't bother disconnecting the battery and noticed something strange... As I connected the unlock wire, the doors unlocked! This didn't occur with the lock wire - only the unlock wire. So I got to thinking and tried it several times and every time I touched the wires together the car door unlocked. Since the lock wire didn't act this same way, I suspected there may be something wrong with the DBALL2 so I opened it to have a look. Sure enough... there was a chip that I had let the magic smoke out of... it had a hole blown in it. Thinking this is most likely the root cause I bought another new DBALL2 and also some IC's (ULN2003) from Digi-Key to try replacing the chip to see if that's all that is blown. I was successful in repairing the DBALL2 and it works perfectly now! I also kept the new one as a spare... So the whole time I was trying all different settings, the product was really bad. I'm sure that I caused this during some part of the install. And I would have never picked up on this [tiny] fact if I would have disconnected the battery again. At least I probably wouldn't have... I don't do this all the time and would have thought nothing of the doors unlocking when the battery was reconnected. So, THANK YOU ALL! This has been a pain in my backside and it's finally relieved and understood thanks to [your] input!