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Excalibur Remote Start, 2002 Trailblazer


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zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 114
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: April 19, 2017 at 9:45 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote zerovandez
Hi all
Vehicle
2002 Chevy Trailblazer LTZ 4wd
Remote Start
Excalibur RS-160-EDP+
Bypass Module
iDatalink ADS-TBSL PL
Additional Info
1. Accessory 2 Relay installed
#86 to the accessory output of remote starter and first accessory wire in the vehicle.
#85 to the ground out when running wire of the remote start (from Excalibur blue wire satellite port)
#30 to the second accessory wire in the vehicle
#87 to the fused side of the remote starter's main power wire.
2. Factory Alarm Disarm
Not connected. Couldn't find the "lt green" wire as most articles state. I've read elsewhere that often times this is not needed.
3. Hood Pin
Not connected (left open)
I've soldered all of my connections. When I first connected the harnesses to the excalibur, the dash lights and gauges cycled on and off about 3 times (as if it were trying to remote start). I then move onto programming the excalibur unit as such
1. white/blue wire a activation pulse - 3x (connected to grey lock motor wire)
2. enabled virtual alarm
Then I connected and programed the iDatalink bypass. Now I try to hit the lock button 3 times and nothing happens. So I take the white/blue activation off of the lock motor wire and put it to ground 3 times - still nothing happens. I've reset it and have tried again but no luck.
any ideas?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 6,263
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: April 20, 2017 at 9:27 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
A few thoughts...
1. Did you connect the Neutral Safety (-) Input - BLACK/WHITE to chassis ground? ( auto tyrans only )
2. Did you verify that this input wire, Brake (+) Input - BROWN/RED, only sees +12V when the Brake pedal is depressed?
3. Did you verify that the programmiong Option 11 is set to OFF for Auto Trans?
4. The White/Blue R/S activation wire is looking for a (-) signal. You might have to use a relay to convert the
    (+) Lock Motor pulse to a (-) pulse for input to the White/Blue wire.
Soldering is fun!
zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 114
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: April 20, 2017 at 10:06 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote zerovandez
Thanks for chiming in, Kreg.
1. Yes, this wire is grounded
2. Yes, the brake input wire only see's 12v. I'm able to program the RS unit using the brake pedal but don't have a way of verifying if any of the programming is stored (no confirmation lights and/or clicks)
3. By default, Manual transmission mode is set to OFF. And I just manually programmed it as such - test RS again without any luck
4. Isn't grounding the rs activation wire 3 times duplicating a 3x pulse?
I guess the other question is - How do I know that the programming I set in the RS is stored?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 6,263
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: April 20, 2017 at 6:47 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
4. Isn't grounding the rs activation wire 3 times duplicating a 3x pulse? Yes, as a test, manually grounding that wire will work and should kick off a R/S sequence. But as an "add-on" R/S, you will need to find a suitable (-) input signal being as you have no R/S remotes.
I don't use Omega products, so I'm not sure how to verify the program settings. Is there any specific Tach/Tachless Learning procedure?
Soldering is fun!
zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 114
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: April 21, 2017 at 11:41 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote zerovandez
Actually, i have reset the unit in the same way i program options and the device actually resets so i guess no feedback is good for this unit lol.
Anyhow, i can wire in a relay to see if that helps but that brings me back to manually pulsing a negative signal - theres no activity from the rs unit so what is a relay really going to do for me?
Maybe this thing is broken?
Forgot to add - the tach setting is on tachless high. Which means this unit will detect a voltage increase of .03v after start.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 6,263
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: April 22, 2017 at 6:08 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
What indications does the RS-160 give as you change programming options? Parking Light flashes or horn beeps?
How do you have the ADS TBSL PL connected to the RS-160? W2W or D2D? If D2D, which RS-160 port did you use? I'm guessing
that the default option in the programming tables is Opt 1 ( but you said the Manual Trans mode default is OFF...). Anyway,
I would change/set the programming so that the D2D port you used for the bypass module is set to iData, not DBI. The SOLO
series iDatalink modules are only native iData mode D2D comm.
Last but not least, try changing the Engine Detection Mode to Crank Only. Think the 2002 model year had "one-touch starting".
Then manually trigger a R/S with the White/Blue wire to chassis ground 3 times.
Soldering is fun!
zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 114
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: April 23, 2017 at 12:17 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote zerovandez
Yes, parking lights ans i can also hear the relays clicking over.
Im using the black data port to the idatalink ads-tbsl pl device. Options are set to idata protocol on the rs160.
I changed the engine detection mode to crank only earlier today and still nothing. Ive also emailed the manufacturer for support. Whats really boggling to me is that im not wven getting any fail errors. It just simply doesnt work :(
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 6,263
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: April 23, 2017 at 4:47 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Being as the Parking Lights work and you can change programming options, the RS-160 seems to be somewhat functional. Guess you could re-verify that the thick Red and Red/White wires are getting power at the brain / connector and ensure that the Black ground wire has a soldered on terminal lug and is well secured to a clean, rust free chassis frame area.
If you haven't tried it yet, perhaps pulling both fuses and letting is "rest" for 30 minutes before re-inserting the fuses might help. Other than that, I'm tapped out. Never used a RS-160 or any Excalibur units so no prior experience.
Soldering is fun!

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