06 Chrysler 300 Parking Light Connection

Howzit everyone, first post here! I recently installed a Compustar/ADS remote starter module(FT-CH5-DC running RS-CH5 firmware) and Compustar RF kit(Slice Jr).   So the issue I'm trying to resolve is with the parking light hookup, I want to use the MUX wire at the headlight switch which if I understand works on various ground resistance makes different functions turn on/off. Currently I have the Brown/White at the headlight switch tapped to the ADS output(coincidentally Brown/White) with a 2.4K ohm resistor inline. I tested it by touching the tapped in wire with resistor to ground and it does indeed activate the parking lights, but when I do an actual commanded remote start(signal sent from module) it will flash ALL the lights including the headlights which I don't want to happen. Any ideas to ONLY have the parking lights flash and NOT the headlights? I was thinking use a relay with the resistor? Thanks

You need to account for total resistance to determine the proper size resistor to use. Depending on the target resistance needed you may need to raise or lower the ohms used.

Doesn't the module's Brown/White Parking Light MUX output already provide the resistance? Try it without the extra resistor, just a direct connection to the car.Soldering is fun!

That's actually what I did first, directly tapped in without any resistor. Thinking that the module takes care of the resistance like you said being there is a separate output wire for a normal NON-MUX connection(brown/black). But I actually got the same outcome where on a remote start trigger the headlights would flash on/off 3x, then remote start the car. Am I correct in assuming that the RS module should have no control at all of the headlights? Is it maybe possible that the modules "pre-resisted" mux output is already too much resistance from the get go therefore activating ALL the lights and adding a resistor inline is moot? Should I maybe try using the "regular" parking light output on the module(brown/black, negative trigger) which I'm guessing outputs a straight ground signal, with the resistor. Being that I know for sure that ONLY the parking lights will light with the headlight switch and 2.4K resistor inline touched directly to ground. Also because the module is made for several different vehicle there's no way that the "pre-resisted" MUX output(White/brown) can have the correct value for every application right?

In that case, I think I would use the modules plain (-) output to control a mini 12V relay* and use the relays contacts to control the Headlight MUX wire. Wiring below : Relay Pin 85 to module (-) Parking Light output Relay Pin 86 top +12V through 2 Amp fuse Relay Pin 87 to cars Headlight MUX wire Relay Pin 30 to chassis ground with inline resistor ** Relay Pin 87a not used - insulate * A mini relay would draw less current than a full size relay and not over-tax the solid state (-) Parking Light output from the module. ** There seems to be conflicting info on the resistor size. You are using a 2.4K ohm resistor while Bulldog Security lists a 1,670 ohm resistor. As Lurch228 states, you might have to do some testing to find the best value for that particular car. A 1,670 ohm resistor is not real common but you can create something pretty close. If you have a 451M door lock module kit laying around, you could use the 470 ohm and the 1,200 ohm resistors in that kit, connected in series, to get the Bulldog suggested value.Soldering is fun!

Sounds good, I will order a mini relay and various resistors and try out different values to see what works. And yes after looking there are quite a few different resistance recommendations for the same application. Thanks for all the info and advice!!

If the MUX on the module you are using is already resisted, confirm the output with a DMM and if its to low you then would add the additional resistor to equal the 2.4k total you need. If its to high then you can use the other non-MUX with the resistor needed, keeping in mind that you need to match the total resistance of all connections. IE adjust for internal resistance of the module. A additional relay to is over kill for a control wire (Controling a external relay with a internal relay of the module), it would be needed if you were directly powering the lights, but not necessary for MUX control. A poor connection can cause this. Sometimes just soldering the connection can be enough of a change (Lower the resistance).

Thanks for the advice!! I'm assuming the modules MUX output is already resisted because the diagram does not mention to use a resistor inline like other brands. Where would I connect the DMM's probes to measure the resistance needed? I'm guessing back probe 1 lead to the modules MUX output at the connector and the other into the headlight switch connector unplugged from the switch? Would I then need to trigger a remote start command from the module to simulate the signal being sent? That does make a lot of sense being that I tested the resisted circuit directly to ground with alligator clips first and then soldered the resistor inline to the module after. I was thinking a relay wouldn't be needed just to carry a ground signal.

So I called ADS tech line today and the guy says that for this application (06 300)the MUX cannot be used to trigger the parking lights and I would have to use the conventional hookup with the purple/white wire(+) at the pass kick panel with a relay to convert to a neg trigger. I'm not totally convinced of this just yet so I'm going to try what lurch228 suggested with a resistor on the direct parking light trigger for the module brown/black(-) and see what that yields. Definately will get my meter out and do some probing first tho, any suggestions where to put the probes to measure what size resistor I'll need inline? Thanks