How to Solder, beginners guide

In all honesty im flattered that this topic is not only still stickied.. but still active. Been away quite a while and hope you all are doing good!

To the last poster regarding these race vehicles: Im very curious to know general locations of where you had connections fail. In general, if the solder job is done correctly, you end up with a joint that is not only permenant, but consumes far less space than a crimp cap or butt connection. I know with my solder jobs (ovbiously depending on size of wire) the actuall unmoveable portion of the joint is probably half the contact area of a butt connector.

To Flynntech: The most unsafe part of the entire job is simply how hot the tip of the iron gets. In a strange way i get the feeling you are talking about hot solder dripping down onto you? If so, this is not the case if done correctly. If you do as i said before, heat the workpeice up 1st, then let the wire "suck" the solder into it, as long as the workpeice is hot enough, you can unravel an entire spool of solder into the wire and it will continue to "stick" to the wire. Where the hot messy and dangerous drippage comes in is where people heat the solder NOT the workpeice.

Drey: I believe you question was addressed by someone else but please let me elaborate, or try to. The tin component in solder is what makes it so conductive. When you heat the connection and apply the solder, the tin connects the peices and forms a permenant bond. If done correctly, the solder will form a perfect bridge between the peices and give you a lossless connection. Simply using crimp caps or butt connectors doesent form this "lossless" bridge, creating a weak point in the system.

TY: It really all depends on what type of connector you are using. Alot of battery terminal ends sold aftermarket are simply large copper ring terminals without the plastic coating. - How I usually do them is: hold the terminal end in a vice or a pair of pliers. I use my Matco soldering iron without the tip in it. This gives me a mini blowtorch. Heat the connector for a good long time, enough so you can melt solder inside it plus time to get the wire inside it. I usually melt about 8-12inches of standard solder into it, place the battery cable in the end of it and let it cool. You end up with a perfect connection every time.

I still see it all the time. Anywhere i go where someone is soldering improperly. Its rather amusing watching someone heat solder up and letting it "drip" onto their workpeice... then claim they are a pro and do it on every job.

In general, select an iron that is appropriate for your type work. I used a Snapon soldering gun that got hot enough to start glowing.. im talking "dont get close to it cuz the pistol grip will burn you!" In an automotive aplication, this is overkill.

Still cant express how touched I am by this.. Thank you all for your great comments and questions and look foward to seeing you on the boards more often!!

<>Probably the most popular manually applied solder for electronics is rosin core 60% tin / 40% lead (Sn60Pb40).  It has a melting point between 361°F and 374°F.  It is suitable for all surface logging electronics, and for downhole tools that will not be run much over 300°F (solder begins to weaken below its melting point, so it is best to stay well below the melting point for an actual maximum working temperature).  But I have never liked the Sn60Pb40 solder alloy; I prefer eutectic solders.

Hi Xracerx,

What is a "plastic range?"

TomBk

A eutectic alloy melts to become a free running liquid at a single temperature which is lower than the melting point of any of its component elements. The lowest melting point eutectic cadmium alloy fuses at 46.81' C and also contains bismuth, lead, indium and tin. The rapid fusing characteristics of these and the near-eutectic alloys are useful in many temperature sensitive applications. The non-eutectic alloys melt over a range of temperatures and have a 'pasty' range in which they can be easily worked and shaped as solders, fillers and brazes.

I'm about to buy a cordless iron and i'm trying to figure out what one to get.

Has anyone seen the ColdHeat cordless elecrtic soldering iron? Used it? Opinions?

And what about the afore mentioned Butane ones. What do you like best for a cordless iron?

I have a wired one overpowerd to almost 240watts or something. I burn through a tip in 10 seconds if i keep it on, but it sinks the solder right into the wire. But ive been doing more and more work tucked into tight spaces in cars soldering above my head and its just not the best place to lug a big iron with a cord.

Awesome guide by the way

I use the Butane Snap-On version "I think they are all made by the same company" I love it for Solder, Heat Shink, and lighting weed when I get pissed off

I never used the cold heat version. I want to see one work before I buy one.

Has anyone tried the soldering Iron that is sold on tv? It's that one that comes with strippers and is SUPPOSED to work great. Probably another cheap t.v. thing, but I was just wondering.

Austin