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Remote Start, 2000 Silverado


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99civictrbo 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: May 14, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 14, 2006 at 7:45 PM / IP Logged  
I installed only a remote start on a silverado today. It was my first install so im pretty new at it. I have a couple questions, Do i need an immobilizer, and for the parking lights do I need a diode to isolate something? The silverado is a 2000. The first time I hooked up the something, It did a sound as if the engine was cranking but the ground was not bolted so I disconnected the ground to securely fasten the ground. Afterwards the systems does not do anything. I dont think the system is being recognized. The system is a BOA DIY system. I didnt hook up the parking lights so I have no idea when the transmitter is being programmed.
99civivtrbo
Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,602
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: January 14, 2006 at 8:56 PM / IP Logged  
You need a Passlock II bypass module ( either a PLXR, GMBP or 555L ) that will allow the vehicle to start. The parking lights you do not need any sort of diodes or resitors for, just direct connect to the parking light.
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
99civictrbo 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: May 14, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 14, 2006 at 9:15 PM / IP Logged  
I thought I needed a relay since I looked at the vechicle wiring here at the 12volt and it says its a (+) and the Boa systems says its made for a (-) system. So Do I just connect them to the parking light wire from the system and thats it. Also, should the something crank anyways becuase it doesnt do anything, or is that normal since it doesnt have the bypass. Last, is the bypass hard to install?
99civivtrbo
another-kelly 
Silver - Posts: 618
Silver spacespace
Joined: July 11, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 14, 2006 at 11:56 PM / IP Logged  
negative p. lights is white in the light blue plug at the BCM. for the passlock bypass, if you're gonna go with a DEI product. i'd suggest the 456G or 457G. just connects to the OBD II connector w/out touching any of the passlock wiring. a bit easier for a newb
99civictrbo 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: May 14, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 15, 2006 at 12:59 PM / IP Logged  
Ok, I connected the parking lights and the system seems to be working since I was able to program the transmitter. The parking lights flashed twice acknowledgeing the transmitter had been programmed. However, I think I have two final questions. I know I dont have the bypass for the immobilizer, but i still try testing the system to see if it would crank or anything. Nothing happened. I pressed the start button twice to see if the accessories would start and the ignition and nothing. Is this normal since I dont have the Bypass or should the truck still crank. Also, I didnt hook up the tach wire since it said it was optional. The system uses voltage readings as default to monitor the truck or the tach if hooked up. The manual stated the tach as optional, should I hook it up regardless?
Any help would be appreciated thanks,
99civivtrbo
Ravendarat 
Platinum - Posts: 2,821
Platinum spacespace
Joined: February 23, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: January 15, 2006 at 1:08 PM / IP Logged  
I would hook up tach. Under the hood on the drivers side close to the fire wall there is a plasic box that houses an electrical board (fuses relays etc). Remove the small siler bar above it then remove the entire plastic housing. On the side closest to the firewall is a harness with green tape on it, in that harness is a white wire. Thats your tach. Now regardless of whether tach is connected or not it should have at least turned on the acces and ign when you tried to start it so I would check your fuses and your ground again.
double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
99civictrbo 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: May 14, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 15, 2006 at 1:13 PM / IP Logged  
Well i checked the ground this morning and it seems to be working. The fuses are good, The only thing I can think of is that the system need the to bypass the immobilizer, which is what I do not have. I would get it today but stores are closed so I will get it tomorrow. What I dont know, is if the system shoudl crank or do anything since it does not have the bypass for the immobilizer?
99civivtrbo
anickle 
Member - Posts: 42
Member spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: January 15, 2006 at 10:44 PM / IP Logged  
the system should still crank, it should start and then instantly die with the security light flashing at you until you have proper bypass.  Like Ravendarat said do tach if it is accesible in any vehicle always hook up tach(in the chev i like to go to whitewire behind cluster 4 7mm and it is out very easy)
andrew nickle

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