I don't even want to consider swapping the OEM deck out, I want to retain the factory look of the car and the radio is pretty much a piece of the dash. I have yet to see a kit that makes adding an aftermearket deck look even remotely stock.

Parrot says to install their system inline between the amp and speaker, what I am guessing is that the the mute signal would shut down the amp and the internal amp of the parrot system would send the sound to the front speakers. Since I am retaining the OEM deck and using a LOC to get the signal to my amps then I should be able to run the parrot system between the radio and the LOC. So what I am thinking is that the mute will kill the speaker level signals going from the radio to the LOC, then the speaker level audio would kick in going from the internal amp in the parrot unit to the LOC which would continue to do what it always does and convert a hi level signal to a low level signal for the amp to put the sound out through my speakers.

Ween wrote: hi, a problem you might have is with the rear speakers. the parrot kit isolates and supplies a + and - for each of the front channels. however on the rear channels, it isolates the + leaving the - connected. you may get noise on the rear channels when the parrot kit is playing audio because of this. there is a solution for this issue however. mark

Would the solution involve using relays to kill the - on the rear speakers? For the time being I do have the rear speakers hooked up but they are feeding off of the radio, the amplifier only powers the 2 speakers in the dash, the 2 front door speakers, and the sub. I guess I could try it out and if I do get noise out the back speakers I could just disconnect them from the system completely or do whatever workaround that would be necessary to make sure I do not get any noise from them.

So what I would do is use the mute to trip the relay killing the remote to the amp, then I would tap the speaker wires from the parrot unit into the speaker wires going to the front speakers correct? Pretty much when a call came through the parrot would cut the amp and the Parrot unit would become the amp sending power to the speakers, right?

A question, under normal operation while the amp is powering the speakers wouldn't the amp be sending power into the parrot unit? Would I need to use a diode to keep the amp power from feeding into the parrot unit?

Also would hooking the parrot wires inline with the speaker wires will this affect the impendance the amp is seeing for that set of speakers?

Here is how everything is set up now

Front speaker wires from OEM deck go to a LOC. From there the RCA's go to my amp's Front inputs and speaker wires come back to hit the 6" speakers in the doors and the 3.5's in the dash.

Rear speaker wires from the OEM deck go to a seperate LOC. From there RCA's go to the Rear input of the amp witch is bridged to the sub.

My OEM deck has a mute wire going into the radio, well atleast the wiring diagram shows a mute wire going into it.

The way I am understanding all of this is I should be able to hook the mute from the parrot unit into the OEM deck mute wire, when a call comes in it should mute the sound coming out of the OEM deck. I cut the front speaker wires and go from the OEM deck to the parrot unit, then the output wires from the parrot unit would go to my LOC. If the OEM deck's mute input works I should be in business at that point as it would mute all sound to all of the speakers and the parrot unit would output the call to the LOC which would then put the sound through my amp and back to my front speakers.

ETA: Based on this http://www.carxtc.com/servlet/the-20959/Nissan,-ALTIMA,-08,-2008,/Detail

the brown wire is a phone mute.