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Subject Topic: what sub/amp combo to purchase?

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equilibrium1990
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Posted: January 13, 2012 at 4:50 AM - IP Logged
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Hi all, It's my first post here but here goes.

First what I have:

Vehicle: 2009 Ford Falcon XR6 FG 6spd Sedan:
http://www.carshowroom.com.au/newcars/reviews/629/2009_Ford_Falcon_XR6___Car_Review

Head-unit: Clarion CZ501A

Front/Rear Components: Alpine SPR-50c 100Watts RMS x 4 @ 4 Ohms

Front/Rear Amp: Clarion XH5410 4 channel amplifier 90WRMS x 4 @ 4 Ohm

Sub-woofers: Clarion WG2510 10" SVC 300Watts RMS x 2 with Clarion XH5410 4 channel amp running bridged, 640Watts RMS.

Wiring: 4GA Positive and Negative to Battery - Amplifier. Front,Rear and Sub RCA's are all Sony.

Currently running with a 1 farad capacitor but a 2 farad will be here next week some time.

Now for the upgrade.

I am basically looking at the Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1D 1200Watt RMS @ 1 Ohm amplifier and two Alpine Type R 10" woofers 600Watt RMS each.

Amp link: http://www.hifonics.com/Hifonics_Brutus_BRZ_Amps.html

Subs link: http://www.alpine.com.au/showItem.php?item_id=108

The reason for 10" woofers is personal taste, Space constraints and music preference.

Now for the questions:

Will this Amplifier/Sub-woofer combination allow for maximum Wattage to be attained from the subs?

Is there something better for the same price?

Will I require new/larger power wiring(0-1-2Ga)or will 4Ga be fine?

Should I be running a capacitor at all? I can notice slight dimming of the headlights at high volume during idle with the 1 farad cap.

I plan to get a far better unit then my factory battery:
Optima Yellow Top 740CCA, 55ah, Reserve cap 120 minutes.
http://www.optimabatteries.com.au/Products/OptimaYellowTop.aspx

I think that will suffice for now.

I am very open to suggestions and being told what for if I'm wrong, so don't hold back, I'd rather feel silly before I buy then after.

Appreciate it, Thx in advance!!!
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xchrisx
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Posted: January 13, 2012 at 12:03 PM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote xchrisx

The amp to the subs is great, you dont really want to always keep everything at its highest volume if you want your equipment to last you.  So there is no issue there.

There is usually something better for anyones price depending on who is listening to the system.  So as long as you like the way it sounds and like decent quality as you have displayed from your choices, then get it, but make sure you buy from an authorized dealer.

You have over 2000 watts running with your system per your post, I would go to a lower gauge wire just because resistance is something no one wants, so the more wire, the less resistance...plus I have 4 200' rolls of 0 gauge wire

Yeah, keep the cap, the more power helping is the better.  It isnt your cap causing your issue, its a voltage drop, I would upgrade the alternator before anything else because the start of your electric line is your alternator, then battery so more batteries without upgrading your alternator first is only hurting you because then it now takes the alternator twice as much work to charge the battery because there are now 2 batteries.  So alternator first, then battery, then back up betteries/caps.


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equilibrium1990
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Posted: January 13, 2012 at 9:45 PM - IP Logged
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How much would a roll of 0Ga power wire cost shipped to Innisfail, Queensland, Australia 4860??
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equilibrium1990
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Posted: January 13, 2012 at 10:19 PM - IP Logged
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I assume you mean 2000 watts peak on the Hifonics? Should be 1760 Watts RMS total with the new subs when I include then splits. I really hope to see a big difference in the punch the subs deal out with the alpines. My clarions punch hard but if I swap over to the low bass tracks they lack power.
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equilibrium1990
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Posted: January 13, 2012 at 10:21 PM - IP Logged
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I measured the the mV from the negative terminal on the capacitor to the chassis and got around .02mv is that ok?
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xchrisx
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Posted: January 14, 2012 at 8:15 PM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote xchrisx

It wouldn't even be worth it to ship, you'd be better off on eBay for it.

Yeah, if it's RMS is 1760 watts its peak is definitely over 2000 watts, so I would go with 0ga.

And that should be fine with the .02mV, just make sure you're using a bare metal ground with no paint in the way and not a part that's bolted on to the chassis, you want a direct chassis ground.
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equilibrium1990
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Posted: January 14, 2012 at 8:32 PM - IP Logged
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I've actually got a 4Ga power loop(Positive from battery under the hood to capacitor in the trunk then back) This should be causing a lot of Resistance according to a lot of stuff I've been reading but I only get .02Mv so I was a little unsure.

http://www..au/itm/1-0-AWG-GAUGE-AMP-KIT-AMPLIFIER-WIRING-CAR-AUDIO-0GA-/360378460826?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e83aea9a#shId

Is that wire any good.

Sorry to ask so many amateur questions!!!
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equilibrium1990
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Posted: January 14, 2012 at 8:54 PM - IP Logged
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DB Link PW0BL50Z 0-Gauge 50 Feet Power Wire (Blue)
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xchrisx
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Posted: January 14, 2012 at 9:23 PM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote xchrisx

The mods wont allow you to post things for other websites concerning selling/buying things. But if it is the DB Link 0ga, it is good stuff, I use it pretty often and would recommend it.
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equilibrium1990
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Joined: January 13, 2012
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Australia
Posts: 51
Posted: January 14, 2012 at 9:33 PM - IP Logged
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Oops, my bad. Cant delete but I notified the mods so they can remove my posts.

It must be awesome being able to own such awesome systems over in the great states. Australia is extremely expensive for stereo equipment. The two subs and amp where quoted 320% higher then the price I'll be paying on the net.
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