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Topic: How to upgrade the Big Three ( Topic Closed)
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Mad Scientists Joined: February 07, 2004 Location: United States Posts: 380 |
| Posted: April 06, 2006 at 5:31 PM - IP Logged |
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The first gen VW Rabbit used a rubber mounting bushing for the alternator.. common problem was bad grounding. Fix was to run a ground strap from the alternator housing to the engine block. Don't know if others manufacturers do the same thing but I saw enough problems with the VWs to remember it, and to check for voltage drop from both alt housing to engine block and alt housing to bat negative. I've seen factory ground side wiring to run from battery negative to chassis, and another wire from bat neg to engine block. Then a connecting ground strap from the engine block to the chassis, just to make sure. The main point of my post was to point out that resistance measurements aren't very good at checking for bad connections.. I've seen mentioned elsewhere on the site that up to 0.5 ohms is acceptable.. what's the voltage drop across a 0.5 ohm resistance with 25 amps?.. does it look like something anyone would like to measure on their own car? Jim |
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jt824 Joined: March 17, 2006 Location: United States Posts: 52 |
| Posted: April 24, 2006 at 1:29 AM - IP Logged |
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| So when ungrading the big three I am adding wiring to the existing 3 locations and leaving the factory wiring intact correct? |
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DYohn Joined: April 22, 2003 Location: Arizona, United States Posts: 10,114 |
| Posted: April 25, 2006 at 11:56 AM - IP Logged |
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jt824 wrote:
| So when upgrading the big three I am adding wiring to the existing 3 locations and leaving the factory wiring intact correct? |
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That's the way I describe it, yes. You CAN replace the OEM wiring if you choose as long as you use large enough gauge to supply the normal vehicle loads PLUS the sound system load. ___________________________________ Support the12volt.com |
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specvsentra Joined: May 10, 2006 Posts: 1 |
| Posted: May 10, 2006 at 7:02 PM - IP Logged |
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| when installing the big 3 what size fuse or circuit breaker should i install between the alternator positive and battery positive leads?? |
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aznboi3644 Joined: May 01, 2006 Location: United States Posts: 2,603 |
| Posted: May 12, 2006 at 7:51 PM - IP Logged |
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| In my 98 Explorer its pretty sweet. It has its own fuse holder for the alternator to the battery at 150amps. |
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soljah Joined: May 13, 2006 Location: United States Posts: 3 |
| Posted: May 13, 2006 at 3:05 PM - IP Logged |
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| I want to upgrade the BIG 3, but I have a dilemna. I can't put any additional wires on my positive battery terminal. I do have an optima yellow top battery with both top posts and side posts. Do you think it would be a problem to use both at the same time? Any input would be greatly appreciated. |
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DYohn Joined: April 22, 2003 Location: Arizona, United States Posts: 10,114 |
| Posted: May 14, 2006 at 10:30 AM - IP Logged |
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specvsentra wrote:
| when installing the big 3 what size fuse or circuit breaker should i install between the alternator positive and battery positive leads?? |
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While it is not 100% necessary to do this, it is always a good idea to fuse any power carrying cable, especially those you have added to your vehicle. Place a fuse or braker close to the battery side of the cable rated at about 80% of the cable's load carrying capacity. ___________________________________ Support the12volt.com |
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nubiannupe Joined: December 09, 2002 Location: United States Posts: 50 |
| Posted: May 26, 2006 at 5:40 PM - IP Logged |
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Something I wanted to address and, hopefully, get input on in regards to this post (thanks, btw, to DYohn). On #6, it was mentioned that you need to hold the solder against the iron and melt it into the strands. However, I was taught that this invariably creates a "cold solder" joint, and instead you should heat the wire - allowing the solder to melt into the wire. Any input/thoughts on this?? ___________________________________ G. Rick (aka; Tha "R")
**Peter North is my idol***
MECP-Certified 1st Class Installer |
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electrostatic Joined: January 06, 2006 Location: United States Posts: 154 |
| Posted: May 26, 2006 at 7:10 PM - IP Logged |
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when i solder ring terminals or any connection for that matter that acts as a heat sink i'll apply solder directly to my irons tip to improve heat transfer and then when the connection gets hot enough i'll apply solder to the connection. ___________________________________ Prove your connections, use a meter!
I promise, I'll behave! |
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jazzcustom131 Joined: October 10, 2004 Location: United States Posts: 175 |
| Posted: June 03, 2006 at 3:18 PM - IP Logged |
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about soldering... I think there's several variations of what's right. I was taught, to do as DYohn begins. aplly a bit of solder to the tip. but when adding the remainder of the solder, feed the solder oppostie from where the iron is, to ensure a proper job. It makes sure all the metal is hot, and ready to bond. So if the iron is in your left hand, feed with the righ hand, 180º from where the iron is. and I don't mean on the other END of the cable, just the other SIDE from where the iron rests. ___________________________________ Greed is for amateurs.
Disorder,chaos,anarchy now THAT is fun!! |
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