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Keyless Entry 2005 Chevy Impala


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rdougcrowe 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: August 06, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: August 06, 2006 at 10:08 PM / IP Logged  

  

   I am trying to install an audiovox APS410A into the car.  I have the alarm installed and working but the keyless entry is causing some problems.  I have not tried to connect the trunk or lights, still working on the locks.  The Impala has a single wire, normal +12v, when the car unlocks, the wire drops to 7v and to lock it drops to 0v.  It needs a 470 ohm resister and a relay - great - what does that mean?  The alarm has two wires (green and red)- the red produces a constant 12v when the alarm is deactivated and 0v when it is armed, the green pulses when the alarm is armed or disarmed.....

   Also, I have seperate wires for the front and rear parking lights - I wanted to connect them both to the alarm when it arms - I can't connect the wire from the alarm to both the front and rear wire (or can I)? Otherwise,  I only get front or rear lights for when the alarm activates?

FYI:

Power Lock ORANGE / black  -  BCM, gray 24 pin plug, pin B3
Notes: Lock is negative trigger thru a 470 ohm resistor. Unlock is a straight negative trigger. MUST use relays.
Power Unlock same as power lock wire    

Thanks in advance!

KarTuneMan 
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Posted: August 06, 2006 at 11:22 PM / IP Logged  

Locate the lock/unlock outputs on the alarm. Wire them to 1 relay as follows.  The lock output goes to pin 85, 12volts to pin 86. Ground thru the needed resistor value to pin 87 (465-470ohms) The ulock output goes to 87a. And take ONE wire from pin 30 to the ORANGE / black lock wire on the car.

The parking lights are NEG(-) at the BCM pin A2 16 pin grey connector.

Chris Luongo 
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Joined: May 21, 2002
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Posted: August 07, 2006 at 7:45 AM / IP Logged  
I've done a lot of Impalas, and all I install is Audiovox, so I feel sure my method will work.
--Below the driver's side fusebox, is a thick harness coming down, below the fuses.....it looks tight.....but pull on it and it comes out with a LOT of slack.
There are several ORANGE / black wires there; TEST to find the one that makes a ground when you press unlock.
Get yourself one, 1-amp diode. You don't need a relay.
Take the GREEN, Unlock output from the alarm, and connect it to one side of the diode.......connect the other side of the diode to the car's ORANGE / black. (If unlock doesn't work, your diode is connected backwards.)
Take the RED, Lock output from the alarm, connect it to a resistor approximately 300-400 Ohms, and connect the other end of the resistor DIRECTLY to the car's ORANGE / black, NOT through the diode.
That's it; locks should be all done.
---Parking lights. The tech sheet lies.
Above the driver's fusebox, at the parking light switch, you can clearly see the wire harness exiting the back of the switch.......there's a little gray pushy clip holding it in place......either push the clip back out (somewhat difficult) or cut it away.
Positive parking lights, at the switch, is BROWN / white, and it lights up the entire car.
There is also a dimmer wire in that same harness, which is NOT the wire you want......when testing the BROWN / white, be sure it is NOT affected by the position of the dash dimmer switch.
There is also a light blue, negative-trigger parking light wire at the switch........there is a trick to convert the Audiovox's parking light output from a positive to a negative if need be........but it isn't needed......just use the BROWN / white.
reisset 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: April 05, 2006
Location: Canada
Posted: August 07, 2006 at 4:42 PM / IP Logged  

For all these feature, you can use a  crimestopper GM-LS, you can control door lock, parking using databus, it es very easy to install.

Martin

sparkie 
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Joined: November 06, 2003
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Posted: August 07, 2006 at 9:07 PM / IP Logged  
The proper way to interface with a multiplex door lock system is to use relays. Diodes add resistance to the circuit and most transistors do not give a good ground to activate a BCM correctly. For the Audiovox systems they use a polarity reversing transistorized low current output. Hook up your keyless as follows. You will need two relays. Hook terminals #85 and # 87 on both relays to ground. On one relay hook terminal #86 to the green wire from the keyless. On the same relay splice a 480 ohm resistor inline on terminal #30 and then hook it to the ORANGE / black wire coming in from the driver's door. For the other relay hook terminal #86 to the red wire from the keyless and the #30 wire to the ORANGE / black wire coming in from the door. You do not need the #87a terminal on either relay. As for the parking lights, you need to use the negative parking light wire from the light switch. If you don't, you will activate the check engine light on the dash because the car will think there is a chrot circuit in the lighting circuits. Most Audiovox systems only come with a positive parking light output. If your unit is the same, find the red wire in the harness that has the 15 amp fuse in it. Cut it where it taps into the other red wire. Connect the cut side of the 25 amp fuse holder to ground. Tape up the other red wire where it was bared. Connect the white wire from the keyless to the vechicle's negative parking light wire to trigger it. The negative parking light wire for the car is the light blue wire at the headlight switch.
sparky
KarTuneMan 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
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Posted: August 07, 2006 at 9:41 PM / IP Logged  
All in all, 3 good ways to get the job done !Keyless Entry 2005 Chevy Impala -- posted image.
rdougcrowe 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: August 06, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: August 08, 2006 at 8:55 PM / IP Logged  

Day 2:  Thanks for everyone help but alas – my lack of knowledge in this matter is causing problems….   Here is what I know... I am using the wire from the actual driver lock/unlock mechanism - an orange and black (OB) one, because it is easy to get to for testing.  When the car is unlocked – the voltage drops to 0 and the lock it goes to about 7 volts.  If I ground the OB, the car doors unlock and if I ground it with a 400 ohm resistor, the doors lock….  So something works… perhaps a trained monkey….

Chris – I tried your way (assuming I did it right) and it is not much different then if I just attach the red wire to the OB… the Car will lock when the lock button is hit but will not unlock.  I could not get the unlock to work, regardless of the direction of the 1A (50 volt) diode I had.  When the keyless locked the door, it maintains the voltage on the OB at something besides 12 (is that bad for the circuit?) and consequently, I cannot unlock the door using the button in the door…. Or it might be the other way around lock vs. unlocked – anyway, when the keyless is one mode, I have to switch it to the other to function the door lock…

Sparkie, can I call you Sparkie?  I don’t know what kind of relay I need to get, Radio Shack only had one that was called and automotive relay – the specs on it are: Coil voltage 12, pull-in voltage 6, coil resistance 66 ohm, nominal current 160 ma, drop out voltage 3.6… I have no idea what that means, seems it might be important….…  I used a multi-meter and it looked like the relay was never being opened by the keyless red and green wires… It was a 30 amp auto Relay and it did not have the 87a node, only 85,86,87 and 30/51.  It looks like the relay need 12v to turn on, I don’t think the keyless is sending that much…

Martin – I just spend 15 buck – how much is your thingamagigy?

Well, I will check in with everyone tomorrow, thanks again…

Dazed and confused..

rdougcrowe 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: August 06, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: August 09, 2006 at 7:30 AM / IP Logged  

Day Three: It was late last night...  Well, in connecting the three wires for the remote entry to the control unit (which was already mounted under the dash), I plugged the connector into the wrong port...  Anyway, this morning I took one last attempt and noticed the problem... I was getting confused because the outputs for the lock/unlock did not seem to be right...  When corrected (ie connected to the right part of the control unit)- the way Chris suggested worked great..  It was the easiest one to try before work...  All is well, the doors unlock and thanks for everyone's help...

Doug


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