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glass fuses

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: General Mobile Electronics Questions and Answers
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=138319
Printed Date: May 02, 2024 at 2:54 PM


Topic: glass fuses

Posted By: chassis
Subject: glass fuses
Date Posted: January 22, 2015 at 7:15 AM

Hi guys!I have a question that I could not find on the net.my friend gave me a bunch of glass fuse holders. I want to purchase some 5A glass fuses but all automotive shops do not have of these,they only sell blade fuses.the only place I found is at the hardware but it is 250V rated at 5A.will it make any difference as I want to use it for 12v.

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.



Replies:

Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 22, 2015 at 8:48 AM
No but the reason glass fuses haven't been used for over 40 years is the propensity of the internal conductors to simply break.
The last user, Rolls Royce gave up in 1981 and they didn't use ordinary glass fuses, they used fuses and holders manufactured by a specialised industrial connector company called Bulgin.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: chassis
Date Posted: January 22, 2015 at 2:48 PM
Hi.thank you ill rather then stay with the blade fuses.

-------------
Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.




Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: January 22, 2015 at 4:42 PM
I agree with Howard. Even if "modern" glass fuses were better constructed than old (the internal breakages were rare), there is still the large area (low pressure) mounting arrangement that loses connectivity over time. In old applications, mounts can melt. And I've probably burnt more fingers on glass fuse terminals than hot fuses running on far higher currents.

I still like the look of glass fuses and they certainly had their day (eg, when compared to continental exposed ceramic fuses), but these days it's ATS or blade fuses hands down. Far more reliable, and less space, and with plug in circuit breaker options.
My OEM vehicle's glass fuses are (almost) all bypassed - lights & other heavy loads (IGN etc) long having had separate ATS or micro-ATS or Fuse-Link feeds.
I have also learned to favor bolt-in fuses when (say) 40A and above unless in a clean or monitored environment. My engine bay's +12V battery terminal's 40A female flinks like melting their finks or mounts.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 22, 2015 at 4:45 PM
Oh yes ceramic fuses, hopefully forgotten, horrible things, always failing on Mercedes etc.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: chassis
Date Posted: January 23, 2015 at 8:26 AM
Thanks a lot for the information guys.

-------------
Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.





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