Parasitic Draw from Remote Starter
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Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: General Mobile Electronics Questions and Answers
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=139903
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 11:18 PM
Topic: Parasitic Draw from Remote Starter
Posted By: misturnice
Subject: Parasitic Draw from Remote Starter
Date Posted: December 10, 2015 at 4:09 PM
I have a 2007 Honda Civic LX Automatic Transmission
I bought a remote starter 2 years ago through a certified Viper Installer.
I currently have a parasitic draw, 1.5ish Amp draw (pretty high)
I disconnected the entire remote starter and removed it bringing the current down to 0.03 Amps which is under the acceptable 0.05 Amps.
The remote starter is a Viper 4606? <(pulled this model off the viper website as it looks the same) I have an older model, however, I'm sure its basically the same.
It also has the Smart Start capability installed
Additionally it uses an idatalink bypass ADS-ALCA.
Is there anyway to diagnose what exactly is causing the parasitic draw? Bench testing (I have access to a 12V power supply) or if it has to be on the car so be it.
I would like to reinstall the remote start for the winter usages, however, if it's trash I might just install a new remote starter.
Any input on diagnosing it would be great. Thanks in advance!
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misturnice
Replies:
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: December 12, 2015 at 7:27 PM
Most draws are because of a bad ground or failing internal relay. First off is to relocate your ground to a better spot. Use your DMM to measure the existing ground location and move if the ground resistance is too high.
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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: misturnice
Date Posted: December 12, 2015 at 8:24 PM
The ground is a beautiful ground, self tapping screw right into the knee shield? pure metal bracket (sharp edges).
How would you go about checking the internal relay/replacing it?
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misturnice
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 13, 2015 at 1:06 AM
Actually that's a terrible ground, never ever use a self tapper, you have plenty of M6 bolts (10mm spanner) or tapped holes in the kick panel use one of them.
Self tappers work loose. You have your self tap plus the knee pad mounting bolts all adding resistance. Plus there might be a safety issue there.
Remove a bolt from the kick panel, file to bare metal around the hole.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: December 13, 2015 at 11:02 AM
That's funny that your measure your ground according to appearance instead of metering the ground resistance to the battery.
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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 13, 2015 at 11:12 AM
Yes, I agree with Jeff, looks or actually measured?
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: misturnice
Date Posted: December 13, 2015 at 11:26 AM
I know it's a ground as I have continuity tested it in relation to other grounds, as well as I've used that area as a ground for my multimeter when doing other tests in the past. Personally have not tested the voltage drop as I didn't think to do so. the bolt never was loose, and it looks like a solid connection mechanically.
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misturnice
Posted By: misturnice
Date Posted: December 13, 2015 at 5:16 PM
I have checked the voltage drop between the grounding point to the battery negative - it's 0.1 mV with the car running. And 0.0 mV when off. To me that sounds like a reasonable voltage drop. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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misturnice
Posted By: misturnice
Date Posted: December 13, 2015 at 5:19 PM
The "knee kick panel" I mentioned is apart of the frame as far as I know, it's not exactly where my knee is, however, it's offset to the right where the center console meets the dash. As a safety concern, it isn't in reach of anything nor is it in direct line of sight of anything if there were to be an accident.
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misturnice
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: December 14, 2015 at 8:44 AM
OK, now that you found that out, you can go onto the next thing. Since the remote starter is a two part system ( bypass unit and remote starter unit ) you can disconnect the bypass module first while doing the draw test on your DMM. measure the voltage drop if any before and after the removal of the bypass module.
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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 14, 2015 at 9:09 AM
The easy way would be to remove the 30 amp fuses one by one then the 15 amp. The 15 controls the alarm AND the data module, disconnect SStart, though frankly a tracker when quiescent, i.e. connected but neither sending nor receiving should draw around 3 milliamps.
Alarm portion around 10 milliamps, antenna (inc. LED) around 15-20.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
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