Printer Friendly Forum Posts - Are radio wire harnessess important?

I need to know how you guys feel about cutting off the original factory harness of a car's stock radio, instead of installing a metra or some other type of harness in place. Is this important or it just doesn't matter? At our shop I've had problems with customers who don't like us cutting stuff off but for some reason we have to do it since we don't carry a lot of this essential hardware. (That's how I feel) any feedback is appreciated.

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dont' cut original wires i've seen cars not work because someone fooled with it and even after bringing the car to the dealership and finally selling it back to them they couln't fix the problem and ended up loosing money on the car...harness are cheapl, could be a liability for your company too..

furthermore, you dont have to cut the vehicles harness clip off just because you dont have the harness in stock. You can simple tag into the wires you need behind the clip so that if they ever want to put the factory radio back in, the factory harness is still availble

I'm with Viper anytime I need to hardwire a car I never cut off the factory harnesses. Just splice and tap into the wires so that the factory plug is still there. Not to mention easier and faster IMO..

I agree with you guys, but at the same time I've always thought that "tapping" or "tagging" into the wiring is the most unsecure connection even if you use t-taps or some other connector that allows you to tag into wires since mobile installations are subject to all types of vibrations and in time that connection fails or becomes intermittent. (I've had some bad experiences) We want an installation that's going to last at least 10 years not 1. I always try not to tap or tag into the wiring, I'm a strong believer that soldering and/or using butt connectors is the way to go, but every installer has its own way to do things. I posted this message to show the guys here at the store that harnessess are very important like you guys mentioned it saves you the hassle of dealing with car dealers because you cut their hardware,warranty problems etc...

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You can still tag into the wires and solder if you wish. A method that works well without the hassle of solder is what i call the poke, twist, and tape. Strip back a little of the insulation, poke a hole using a pick tool into the copper, and then insert the stripped wire that you need to connect to the wire. Wrap the wire that you are connecting tightly around the copper of the wire that you are taging into and then tape it with 3M Super 33+ electrical tape.

Either way, this method or soldering is much more durable than a butt connector. Crimp caps would be a better alternative to butt connectors....they dont look as sleek but ive never seen a wire pull out of a crimp cap wheras I have seem them come out of a butt connector

Hmm again I'm with Viper I use the good old poke, twist, and tape method he described on almost all of my installs. It's a solid connection and there's no chance of it vibrating loose. Many companies are suggesting this exact type of connection in their installation manuals. I can only recall 1 job that I checked and the problem turned out to be a bad connection. They used the same method except when they stripped the insulation from the wire it stripped in the middle but the insulation never broke free all the way around so the connection wasn't real great. Resulting in an intermittant problem. Although admittingly I would like to get into the habit of soldering more often. An electric soldering iron is out of the question since I'm usually on the road even though I carry 2 in my box. Can anybody recommend a GOOD butane one? Anything from snap on?

A guy from code alarm came down to the shop about a year ago to show us a new car alarm, and he taught me the poke, twist and tape. I implement that technique except I add two ties on the connection (as an extra precaution) I use it on car security mostly since cutting off the switch wiring could be tricky since they are heavy gauge wires and using butt connectors is not always secure as they get loose. So yeah, for that situation I use that technique it works pretty good.

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Snap on carries a nice Blue Point butane soldering iron. The kit with multiple tips is around $120 - a little pricey but well worth the investment

I agree with most, definitely don't cut off the connector. You can splice in behind the connector without using taps or crimps by what most are saying, strip, poke and wrap the wire around. Using 3M tape and when all the connections are done, use a few small wire ties, especially where the tape ends will ensure it never comes loose. I find that if you are going to solder, careful not to do a cold solder joint or where the solder ends, make sure there are no sharp protrusions from the wire or solder because that can eventually come through the tape and short something. In the end if the factory connector is still in place it makes reinstallation of the factory deck headache free and I always remind my customers to come back for the removal and reinstallation when they are changing vehicles at a small fee. This way it's almost guaranteed repeat business that is hassle free.

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Thee #1 tool nut
Thee #1 Mustang nut

I think it's funny that so many condem the butt connectors. The problem you run into with butt connectors is when you use the wrong tool to crimp. If you use the pinch style crimp tools of corse you will have a butt connector that fails. I use the style that has a cup and leg style crimp that positively forces the butt connector together. I agree that the crimp cap is stronger though. With all my crimps the wire will break before the wire pulls out. garranteed!!!

If you live in a hot enviroment such as I, you will know the problem with the poke, twist and tape method. Good connection but the tape will always come undone in the 120 temp around here, and that's not taking into account the temp the inside of the vehicals get.

But to answer your question: Yes I only use harness unless its absolutely nessisary.

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(owner/installer)
Chase's Accessories
Ridgecrest, CA
in business since 92

The one problem with using harnesses is when you get a car that has the radio stolen out of it or whatever and someone else has chopped the plug off. Guys who don't use harnesses can tell you without much of a pause what the factory radio wiring is for a Honda, or a Chrysler, or GM etc. Having the harnesses is great but knowing what colours the wires are supposed to be when things aren't working is also a very important skill.
Happy Metering
Anonymous

I am with Chase. I live in a very hot and humid envrionment. Even the best of electric tape doesn't stay on for long. Any butt connector that comes of has been improperly crimmped. Klein crimpers are the best that I have used. By the way, on the butt connector itself, the side that has the numbers and a small indention on the metal is the side that you crimp on. It is designed to make a stonger connection. I am pretty surpised that a lot of shops don't know the proper way to use a butt connector, which is probally why a lot of people give them a lot of crap. Anyways, the way I see it, there is no real difference in using a harness or hardwiring. Just be carefull about cutting the harness off of a new car. It WILL void most warranties.

I'm with the anonymous guy.... when i brough tmy car it already had a cd player in it. but i wanted to put my better one in.. when i took it ouy i noticed that it didnt have a harness on the back of it. so i was like daggg.. then i had to break out the tape and start hardwiring it.
it works fine for a while then it started shorting.. then i found out that the switched power had a short... well long story short i got it to work and its kicking now

Using a wiring harness is also a lot quicker because most head units have standardized wire colors and not having to second guess a conection saves a lot of time. I takes me a whole 5 minutes to wire a head unit with a harness.

Walmart has most harness connectors for cars out there. 8$ in the hole is alot better than messing with hardwiring.

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I need quality equipment, feel free to donate.

Talk to your snap on rep.... there is two versions, one with all the tips and stuff for like 120 or the one with one tip (this is the only one your likely to use) it is about 60 bucks......works great, the rest of the tips are in my toolbox still, brand new.

any way you go this tool is a MUST buy.....lasts forever, ive put about 50 cans of butane in mine and it works like the day i bought it.

Not to mention that the butane can probably be ordered through shop supply....grin

Newbie logging in looking through the harness convo here. Had an aftermarket stereo stolen out of a 98 neon, and they took the connectors and all. Now I only have the factory Dodge wires to work with. Anyone know what does what? Red=?, RED / White=?, BLACK / YELLOW=?, BROWN / Red=?, Orange=? etc

( 1998 Dodge Neon Stereo Information )

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Thank you so much! Unfortunately, I'm using a voltmeter on the constant lead and getting no reading. I've checked all the fuses, and nothing's blown. Is there any place else that you know of that could have shorted while there was no head unit in (i.e. wires touching each other)? Thanks again,

You may have blown a main fuse, it is located under the hood in a black plastic box near the drivers side......yup theres a whole lot more fuses..... i find these seem to blow in a neon before the interior fuse.... but smart idea to fuse twice... good old chysler