what to use to secure the sub to the box
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=106278
Printed Date: May 23, 2024 at 4:19 PM
Topic: what to use to secure the sub to the box
Posted By: jason777
Subject: what to use to secure the sub to the box
Date Posted: July 21, 2008 at 5:33 PM
I'm almost done building my box, and I dont want to just screw the sub to the box, cause the holes wear out if you have to remove the sub for some reason. I'm not sure if going all the way through and using a nut is valid because wouldnt that cause an air leak? What do professional box builders use?
Thanks!!
Replies:
Posted By: megaman
Date Posted: July 21, 2008 at 6:28 PM
screws
Posted By: boogeyman
Date Posted: July 21, 2008 at 6:29 PM
I use T-Nuts from parts express.......With a little CA glue on the "female" side..........works great.
Posted By: trs audio
Date Posted: August 25, 2008 at 4:39 AM
get your self some 1/4 in stainless srews and nuts. epoxy the nuts to the inside make sure u use enough epoxy
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Posted By: goaheadandh8me
Date Posted: September 12, 2008 at 12:50 AM
t-nuts are the way to go my friend.
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josh
Posted By: black97mirage
Date Posted: September 13, 2008 at 9:55 PM
There are nuts I've seen at True Value that are like a threaded sleeve with barbs on one end, you need to predrill for the sleeve then counter sink the head slightly. I'd still add some kind of sealant like a JB weld 2 part epoxy.
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I drive a 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage LS Coupe. I love it and I've got a knack for the 12volt stuff.
Posted By: bassbindevil
Date Posted: September 17, 2008 at 6:16 AM
Yep, those are T-nuts. The rectangularish ones are better than the round ones.
Now, to mount them, pounding them in with a hammer doesn't work well. Pressing is good, but inconvenient. The logical thing is to use a bolt to pull them into place, but it takes a lot of force, and if you just have a washer under the head of the bolt it'll chew up the front panel. I used a big flat chunk of metal (like the flat wrench for a Skilsaw or die grinder) as a sort of oversized washer to spread out the force, with a couple of washers under the bolt head.
Another thing, though... it is VERY bad if the t-nut isn't anchored solidly to the cabinet, because if it comes loose, you will have a lot of fun ever getting the speaker out again. They stick in plywood OK, but not so well in particle board, or MDF. Make sure the driver cutout is no wider than absolutely necessary, so there's plenty of wood for the T-nut to stick into. Usually the spec sheet recommends a larger opening than absolutely necessary.
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Is this bass really strong enough?
Posted By: spookiestylez
Date Posted: September 17, 2008 at 10:05 PM
never used any t nuts before. I might try them out, and order a few for my shop. We use stingers mostly, like 1-1/2" ones.
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RTFM
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