Tahoe Sub Box Build up
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Fiberglass, Fabrication, and Interiors
Forum Discription: Fiberglass Kick Panels, Subwoofer Enclosures, Plexiglas, Fabrics, Materials, Finishes, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=70112
Printed Date: May 14, 2024 at 8:31 AM
Topic: Tahoe Sub Box Build up
Posted By: muttman05
Subject: Tahoe Sub Box Build up
Date Posted: January 05, 2006 at 12:07 PM
Not sure what happened to my last post but it is all hosed up. I just purchased a 06 Tahoe and plan on installing a couple of JL 10's. The problem I am having is the cost to build a box. I was quoted 700 to build the box below. Guess I am going to take on the task of building it my self. Anyone from Austin? Where is the best place to purchase supplies? What are some things I should look out when building this? Any hints or tips would be great.
Replies:
Posted By: darthness
Date Posted: January 05, 2006 at 12:29 PM
autozone, your local hardware storem and a fabric store if you plan on covering it. < they'll have everything.
Posted By: mi_what
Date Posted: January 05, 2006 at 3:44 PM
700 isn't bad for that box...you might want to consider it; especially if you haven't done glasswork before. I live in SA and I have found everything I ever needed at Advance, Autozone, Pepboys, and the occasional visit to my local fabric shop.
Posted By: muttman05
Date Posted: January 05, 2006 at 4:52 PM
thanks.. is it cheaper to buy the FG at a paint store vs auto parts? 700 for the box is crazy ( I say that before getting my hands wet). If the box was 600 in parts and 100 in labor maybe i wouldn't have such a problem. I am sure that I can build that box with out much of a problem. What is the best way to measure the volume of something like this? I want to know if I need to port it? I was guessing if its glass I could fill it with water.
Posted By: driverswanted
Date Posted: January 05, 2006 at 6:50 PM
For starters, back outta this post and look at the "sticky packing peanut volume measurement" thread. That should kinda give you ideas on how to measure volume, or maybe spark ideas of your own. As for porting, i'd first try looking up the specs for your exact sub- brand and model. From what i've seen, ported boxes are usually sized differently than sealed, so that might be something to look into before making your enclosure... ------------- 1995 Maxima
-n8
Posted By: youngone
Date Posted: January 05, 2006 at 9:55 PM
as posted above there is a size difference in ported and sealed boxes. ported boxes are bigger and harder to build. and there is no reason to port it unless you want more spl. but since it sounds like you haven't made fiberglass boxes before i would go with the sealed box. a + to sealed boxes is they usually have better sq. but that depends on the sub and its environment. do alot of reading and then try and tacle the building, cas you wont get to fare not nowing what to do. good luck
Aaron
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Want to know some good equipment- JL,Adire Audio,Mcintosh,Brax,Helix,Eclipse,JBL,RE,Dimoand Audio,Zapco, pritty much anything DYhon,Forbidden recommend
On the12volt you give some info and you get in
Posted By: muttman05
Date Posted: January 06, 2006 at 7:00 AM
thanks I have worked with FG before in boats but never for a speaker box. I have built a few boxes before with out issue. This website is a great resource of information. I plan on being a member for some time.
Posted By: mi_what
Date Posted: January 06, 2006 at 4:25 PM
Alright, since there is no convincing you outta it...I am the same way. it looks like they made a mold of the rear panel side and some portion of the floor outta glass, cutout the oval shape for the speaker front, use dowels to support it, then lay a false front out of 1/4" wood, stretch fleece, lay resin on the fleece, start laying glass. That's probably the easiest way to explain it. As far as porting it, your subs should include the port specs, then you need to decide whether you want to chamber each sub or have them hitting in the same airspace, add the correct port size either to the sub box or each different chamber. It's a lot more work and you might like a sealed sound better.
Posted By: muttman05
Date Posted: January 06, 2006 at 5:39 PM
thanks. I think I am going to go with a sealed box for sure. I just spend the last 10 minutes or so looking at my rear panel. It appears that the these are different years. The plast panel is much different in mine around the hatch area. For now the plans are to pull the plastic section out and see what I really have to work with. I believe a I can cut the plastic and feather the cut line under the leather once covered. Just going to take a bit more work. Not worried.....yet! I have looked around and can't find a lot of info on what fleece to use. Got any suggestions. Fabric store?
Posted By: ajm859830
Date Posted: January 07, 2006 at 12:05 AM
muttman05 wrote:
thanks. I think I am going to go with a sealed box for sure. I just spend the last 10 minutes or so looking at my rear panel. It appears that the these are different years. The plast panel is much different in mine around the hatch area. For now the plans are to pull the plastic section out and see what I really have to work with. I believe a I can cut the plastic and feather the cut line under the leather once covered. Just going to take a bit more work. Not worried.....yet! I have looked around and can't find a lot of info on what fleece to use. Got any suggestions. Fabric store?
Im in san antonio and was in HEB about a week or 2 ago and they had a metal bin thing there with generic fleece blankets for $3 each. Most def. beats $4 a yard at walmart so I picked up a few of them and it worked great for the pods for my door panel.
Posted By: tuscani
Date Posted: January 07, 2006 at 12:16 AM
Remnants are your best friend... Also, I dont really understand why everyone wants to buy really thick fleece and just SOAK and SOAK it with resin first? Why not buy a less dense fabric that you can actually kind of see through when stretched tight. That way, when you put your mat over it, the resin will soak right through anyway. Everyone wastes so much resin soaking it into the fleece. Why not let the mat do what its suposed to, just use one more layer :)
Have fun!
Posted By: mi_what
Date Posted: January 07, 2006 at 10:59 AM
I always go to joanns fabrics but it's like a mile away from my apartment. they have REALLY good fleece that stretches great. Oh, and the reason you want to resin the fleece first is because if you stick the mat onto fleece that hasn't been resined yet and try to dab it (which is the best way to lay fiberglass; don't brush it) it will stretch the fleece and you will loose shape.
Posted By: jfunk06
Date Posted: January 07, 2006 at 3:27 PM
I prefer to have a thicker fleece to have a thicker base. Yeah, it might take up more resin, but to me, it makes it easier. Makes laying the matt really easy. Everyone has their own thing. Me personally, i go to a boat store for Resin, a plastic shop for the Matt, and auto store for everything else. When looking at prices per sq. ft remeber there is a karge range of matt thickness. The bondo brand bagged 8sq ft is only 4 bux, but its also paper thin. So if you are going to be doing the whole sub-box. I would suggest getting a thicker matt making it a lot less layers. You are going to need a thick matt regardless when it comes to speaker, especially woofer enclosures!
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Govenor of Jimcinati
93' GMC Safari XT
Posted By: chico1gg
Date Posted: March 08, 2006 at 7:53 PM
That is a nice setup. Post some pics of your progress. I am thinking of doing something similiar to that in my Yukon where the factory sub goes.
Posted By: crazyoldcougar
Date Posted: March 11, 2006 at 11:27 AM
like i pointed out in a previous thread..there is no need to use fleece...especially thick fleece all it does is add ridiculous amounts of weight to your project..it doesnt matter how thick the stretched matreial is..once you resin it, it will be hard then you lay up your mat..and like someone said use and extra layer of mat if you have to..fleece has pretty much no strength to it anyway.. as for this project..i think i remember seeing the build of it a long time ago...rear panel was removed and discarded.. a piece of MDF was cut for the back that matched up to the shape of the window/ and whatever else was in the way..Wheel weel comes to mind. (that will have to glassed in the next step) a piece of MDF was also cut for the bottom, and i think for each side as well...and a 4" tall piece for the front.. recessed speaker rings were made, fastened to the oval face board and then trimed with a larger MDF ring for the trim... any interior pieces that had to be glassed were don prior to stretching the fabric...interior was completely sealed.. speaker ring/ trim panel were placed with dowels and glued in at appropriate angles. Fabric was strecthed and stapled into rabbit joints on the back of the MDF, and the front rabbit joint on the top portion along the window. glassed...mat, mat, mat, mat, mat, mat, sand, sand, sand, prime, sand, sand, prime, sand, paint, the cover was made out of the cut out from the trim ring...besure you do a nice job cutting out the hole or you will have to waist more wood making a new piece..the cut out piece itself was basically turned into a ring and then had grill cloth stretched over it...i believe they used snaps to secure it in place.. ------------- Fiberglass Guru.
Posted By: crazyoldcougar
Date Posted: March 11, 2006 at 11:45 AM
oh yeah and this box done by yourself sould cost you.... 1 4'x4' sheet of 3/4" MDF = 20.00 1/2 gallon resin = 2 quarts- 35.00 or 1 gallon 45.00 2 meters of vinyl = ~15.00 3 meters of grill cloth or similar permeable fabric = 15.00 1 quart of Duraglass type product = 18.00 1 quart of Rage gold filler = 15.00 assorted sandpaper ranging from 40 - 600 = 10.00 spray adhesive = 8.00 roll of aluminum foil = 2.00 10 1.5" crappy ass brushes = 10.00 25 count box of laytex/ vinyl gloves = 5.00 can of primer (i suggest Proform 649) = 10.00 paint code and 1/4 pint of factory matched paint = 25.00 20 pack paper respirators = 5.00 staple gun & Staples 16 bolts with those nuts that have the teeth in them to hammer in the back of speaker rings Speaker wire terminal someone with a torch that can weld a couple nuts to the frame of the truck, then you can either bolt through your box (with either silcone or rubber washers) or you can bolt from the side or bottom...whereever is easiest for you to get at. SO after you buy the bolts and funky nuts you looking at about 210.00 bucks to build this yourself...should take a beginner about 4 to 5 days of hard at it screwing up to do this...experienced person could wrap this up in 2 to 3 days...basically a weekend full tilt on it. i priced it in Canadian money so if your in the states it will be a little less..and i assumed a gallon of resin since once your done this you will either want to redo it or do something else with fiberglass...it is an adiction.. good luck wit this..it isnt overly difficult to do and you will have fun..post pics and any more questions you may have.. ------------- Fiberglass Guru.
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