driving light bulbs blown

2009 Dodge Ram Laramie. Have had PIAA 2100 Driving lamps in use since new. They worked with the High-beam lights. Yesterday, I installed PIAA 580 Driving lamps. Both sets of lamps are installed in the same manner (wiring points etc). At time of the "580" installation, I put the 2100's to activate with the low-beam (instead of high-beam). I connected the "580's" to activate with the high-beam.

Note: With the current install, both sets of lights are on when the high-beams are on because my vehicle lights both high and low with "highs". I will be installing an additional relay that will cut the driving lights that are activated with low-beam... when the high-beam's are turned-on.

Also: this morning (when the lamps blew-out) the heater fan was on med-hi and the heated seats were on.

After install, I tried the lights for approximately 10 minutes during a short drive. This morning I turned the high-beams on, then activated the "580's" driving lights. Immediately, one lamp, then the other blew-out.

I disassembled the lamp and found each bulb (H-3) filament to have melted at the point the positive leg touches the filament coil.

I called PIAA and the technician stated that I should have a surge protector so that won't happen. My question to him was, why have the other lamps not had the same problem (being that they have the same bulb's, installation points, etc). He couldn't answer.

My question to this forum is: Did the bulbs burn-out because of two defective bulbs? Was it a surge? Should I get a surge suppressor? If so on the suppressor, are there any recommendations?

PIAA is going to send me new bulbs at no cost, but I am afraid that the same thing may happen.

thanks for any help you can give.

are your low beams hid?

No they are not. I replaced the stock headlamps with PIAA dual filament extreme white in 2009. At the same time I installed the PIAA 2001 driving lights in the bumper cut-out. The 580's are the lights I just installed. They are the same bulb H3.

Well, not a great test, but I put some less expensive bulbs in yesterday (only 55 watt though) and did everything I could to abuse them. lol They did not blow. I also checked the charge. At idle w/o extra load it was around 14vdc. With full load (everything I could put on) at idle it was 14.7, and off idle (about 1500RPM) it stayed at 14.7. So who knows what it was. Hopefully when PIAA sends the new bulbs to me, they will last a long long time. My Dakota has the original bulbs from 10 years ago and the truck in this post has 3 years on the bulbs in the headlamps and low-beam driving lights.

14.7V is bit high if at the battery (as far as the battery is concerned).

With loads, check the voltage drop between the alternator body and battery- just in case that is 0.3V or more....

It has been a few days now and the cheap bulbs I installed haven't blown-out. I have used high-power lights with standard relay's for too many years to count, and never had a problem with a spike. But, I think that I will put a rectifier diode in series with a zener on the coil of the relay's just to be safe.

I was just describing how cheap unbranded CFLs are not blowing up whereas reputable and expansive CFLs are. (For domestic AC lighting.)

And I have often found the same to be true of headlamps, though I still use halogen (until replaced with LEDs...).


A reverse-biased diode across the relay's coil should suffice. A Zenor probably has no use, and it must be current limited anyway so as to not exceed its power rating.

oldspark wrote:

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I was just describing how cheap unbranded CFLs are not blowing up whereas reputable and expansive CFLs are. (For domestic AC lighting.)

Yes, I agree. I recently saw an article about this too. Some actually "blew" a hole right through the base.

And I have often found the same to be true of headlamps, though I still use halogen (until replaced with LEDs...).

Although the bulbs are probably Korean, they are fortunately PIAA. So thankfully they are warrantied.

A reverse-biased diode across the relay's coil should suffice. A Zenor probably has no use, and it must be current limited anyway so as to not exceed its power rating.

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I considered the zener for faster decay. Probably don't really need it though. The rectifier diode should be quick enough.

Thanks for the response too!!

Well, PIAA finally sent the replacement bulbs to me (under warranty). They have been in for four days now and no problem. So, it must have been that the original were both defective. Now if only I can figure a way to get the same odds with the lottery.

Thanks for the replies.

BTW; now that I know the bulbs are ok on their own, I will put the diodes across the coil of the relays.