gu10 led light

I have a GU10 LED bulb, household use and one of the bulbs burnt. Which made half the lights go out, once I removed the led it worked again now another is dead and the circuit will no longer work? If i bridge the contact where the led use to go into the bread board will that fix the circuit or will i cause a fire or short since this is AC voltage.

Leave it open. Don't short it - that's a fire etc.

Unless you mean one LED in a string, in which case replace the LED.

I figured once I started looking at the circuit I would end up shorting it. So i ended up just buying different bulbs with 1 strong LED instead of this stupid 48led. Originally I thought it was wired in parallel and that's why I didn't mind the 48 led's, but in series its as good as garbage unless I feel like fixing them every time an LED burns out.

Apparently they use plain rectification and long strings of diodes.
Hence why "AC diode lighting" is notoriously unreliable.

Personally I'd convert to DC (SMPS) for reliability and versatility.

The problem with parallel is the need to drop the AC voltage to a few volts (2-3V DC), especially at 48 times the current compared to 48 series LEDs.   
ERGO the SMPS solution - no damaging AC peaks and sinewaves etc, just a nice DC voltage.


For 48 LEDs in series, you could short out a few bad LEDs. The first will only increase average LED voltage by 1/48th (2%) etc.
If their design is "typical", you could probably do that for up to 4 or 5 LEDs before severely over-stressing the remaining LEDs.     


In fact, it wouldn't surprise me if shoring out a few bad LEDs results in a very long-lived lamp. Maybe it's only a few "low spec LEDs" in the batch that are the problem.
Let me know if that proves to be the case.

But I do suggest removing the LED "bulb" BEFORE doing any replacement or shorting.
Normally I'd recite the riot act [now kiddies, don't do this... or "must be by an approved..."], but since this is obviously acceptable in your jurisdiction and you have already replaced etc, and since unlike other loads, LEDs will burn out relatively safely without hazard etc...

"In fact, it wouldn't surprise me if shoring out a few bad LEDs results in a very long-lived lamp. Maybe it's only a few "low spec LEDs" in the batch that are the problem.
Let me know if that proves to be the case."

I have 5 of them that are exactly the same with 1 or 2 burnt leds even 2 with 3 burnt which those will not turn on. But it is what it is buy Chinese garbage get Chinese garbage. The new set has 60 degree angled light and is made in Spain.   

I am not keen to AC electricity i keep myself entertained with 12 volts but maybe when I have time I will try this DC (SMPS) conversion on the bulbs I do have.

Strange. I have had cheap Chinese CFLs that I have used for ~2 years in every house light. Lots on short duration cycles and some very long cycles. Others also report "cheap" reliability compares to the name brands (Philips etc).

Most "name" companies now manufacture in China, though they may have suitable quality.


But domestic AC LEDs are unreliable by nature, that's a design (IMO) flaw.


BTW - using a diode for the "short" would be better - eg, common 1N914 or 1N4148 "signal" diodes...

will try that thank you

I need to find the brightest/most powerful GU10 Leds that will fit into Aurora Fire rated down lights, the cans measure 100mm which leaves me with i'd say a maximum length of 65mm. In warm white.
They need to be dimmable. I have been searching for ages and thought i'd found two to choose from, taking all things into account I assumed that lumens was a big factor, then i noticed that it doesn't seem to match the equivalent.

Deltech 8w 500lumens (36w equivalent)
Megaman 6w 410 lumens (50w equivalent)
Sharp 5w 550 lumens(doesnt say equivalent)

At the moment I've fitted the standard halogen Gu10's that are included with the Aurora and he's not happy with the amount of light!!