How can i make my LEDs brighter?

I just hooked up an Ichibahn LED underbody kit (orange) (model: 4075004) with 7 display patterns. When I turned them on at night they were not even bright at all and they are supposed to be brighter than neons it says.  So i was wondering what i could do to make them alot brighter with a relay or something or something that you know. Thx.

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Against All Odds C.C.

Without drsatically shortening the life of the LEDs, you can't do much. Check the input voltage, and make sure it is where it is supposed to be... (12.6-14.4v)

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

and also make sure you have a good solid ground and a good solid positive. that can make a big diff.

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Everything has a good connection, it is hooked straight up to the battery and with the car on it still isnt bright so i kno its not the voltage or the ground......

Is there something i can put on it, or put something in the wiring cause i took and LED kit out of a truck one time and it had a Relay on it, wut was that for?

Any suggestions, Thx.

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Against All Odds C.C.

you said it is hook straight to the battery.  ground also? or is it grounded to the chassis?if so, is that chassis ground point clean of any dirt or paint or undercoating? what kind of connections did you make or extentions? what guage wire and how long? did you solder your connections? these all will have a bearing on the out come. do as haemphyst said and take a voltage reading at the closest point to the first setup of diodes (led) convertor box with a dvm. what are your readings , with the car running and without?

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JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs

i have the ground and the power hooked up directly to the battery. there are no solder points or no cuts in the wire.  I used the wire that came with it and it goes from the back of the control module, directly to the battery.  Do you thinkk it could be the brand (ichibahn), has anyone had this problem before?

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Against All Odds C.C.

try grounding straight to the frame or engine bay, scrape the paint down to the bare metal and see if that helps

could be a problem in the control module. the resistors could be holding the voltage to much or cold solder joints on the board. without having it to look at i cant help. you said it came from another car. it could be just time to get another one. lol

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JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs

na the system is brand new.......

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Against All Odds C.C.

i would take it back where u got it, show them, get them to show u another kit and see how bright it is compared to urs, also remember orange leds dont have a high mcd rating (around 7000mcd (less than red- 16000mcd which isn't bright)), i know orange is an awsome color tho, good luck with it

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modest yet effective... ECLIPSE 12", Venom 8"x2, Focal 5 1/2" comp.,Response amps x2 (580WRMS total @ 4Ohms), Pioneer TFT + DVD, good for 148.7dB

thx cowboy....

what does the mcd mean?

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Against All Odds C.C.

mcd means mini-candles, its a high intensity brightness rating

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modest yet effective... ECLIPSE 12", Venom 8"x2, Focal 5 1/2" comp.,Response amps x2 (580WRMS total @ 4Ohms), Pioneer TFT + DVD, good for 148.7dB