ho alternator companies

I have a 93 Honda Civic SI - 1.6 L and I am looking for a 200-300 amp alternator - higher the better.

Problem is that I have been trying to contact High output alternator . com and they are extremely bad with customer response.  I am still going to try contacting them through their local number however I need the alternator as fast as possible and wanted to know other reputable companies to look into if I cant get one through this other company.

mrrairai wrote:

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some HO alts don't put out as much at idle as the stock ones

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Well this would be sort of critical huh?

Does ur Irragi do that?  If not, what, precisely, is the voltage at idle?  Does it rise *at all* when RPM increases?

sedate wrote:

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mrrairai wrote:

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some HO alts don't put out as much at idle as the stock ones

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Well this would be sort of critical huh?

Does ur Irragi do that?  If not, what, precisely, is the voltage at idle?  Does it rise *at all* when RPM increases?

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It's not the voltage you need to worry about droping, that should be stable through the entire rpm range.  The alternators current capacity will raise as the alternators speed rises though.  If your voltage drops at idle it shouldn't go below about 13 volts, but that will vary slightly with some cars.  I'm using an external regulator instead of the PCM to control my voltage, which stays at a rock steady 14.2 volts.

calum] wrote:

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t's not the voltage you need to worry about droping, that should be stable through the entire rpm range. 

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Hmm.

Okay - it SHOULD be stable throughout the RPM range - but this isn't often the case with rewound or bolt-on aftermarket HO alternators.  The key is sort of the topic of the thread - which companies offer competent build quality.

The point is - in general, rewound alternators do NOT produce full voltage at idle - certainly nothing approaching 13v - most "HO" alts I've seen hover around 10.5v ~11v @ idle - this is highly, highly problematic.

calum] wrote:

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'm using an external regulator instead of the PCM to control my voltage, which stays at a rock steady 14.2 volts.I'm using an external regulator instead of the PCM to control my voltage, which stays at a rock steady 14.2 volts.

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Could you describe this process in detail please?  PCM?  How would the OP go about doing this?

sedate wrote:

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calum] wrote:

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t's not the voltage you need to worry about droping, that should be stable through the entire rpm range. 

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Hmm.

Okay - it SHOULD be stable throughout the RPM range - but this isn't often the case with rewound or bolt-on aftermarket HO alternators.  The key is sort of the topic of the thread - which companies offer competent build quality.

The point is - in general, rewound alternators do NOT produce full voltage at idle - certainly nothing approaching 13v - most "HO" alts I've seen hover around 10.5v ~11v @ idle - this is highly, highly problematic.

calum] wrote:

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'm using an external regulator instead of the PCM to control my voltage, which stays at a rock steady 14.2 volts.I'm using an external regulator instead of the PCM to control my voltage, which stays at a rock steady 14.2 volts.

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Could you describe this process in detail please?  PCM?  How would the OP go about doing this?

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Wow, 11 volts...  I had no idea they were that bad.  An external regulator isn't going to help that at all, you'll need a smaller alternator pulley to spin the alternator faster to help that.

I use an external regulator because the PCM (powertrain control modual) liked to screw with the voltage.  It would have it anywhere from 13 volts to 15 volts, depending on the weather conditions and temperature of the battery. 

To install an external voltage regulator you need a regulator (https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1066676,parttype,4884) and a plug for it (https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1066676,parttype,2644) .  The wiring is pretty simple, you'll need to locate the small gauge switched 12 volt wire going to the alternator by using a voltmeter.  With the cars engine shut off and the key in the on position look for 12 volts on one wire.  Tap into this wire and splice that into the middle pin on the regulator plug.  Cut the other small gauge wire to the alternator and splice that into the other wire on the regulator.  Then mount the regulator to the chassie of the car as the body of the regulator is its ground. 

calum] wrote:

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ow, 11 volts...  I had no idea they were that bad

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The first rewound/rebuilt HO alt I purchased hovered around ~10.5 @ idle - this created SO many problems - the idle voltage was so low that *everytime* you accelerated the head lights would very noticably brighten....it was terrible.

calum] wrote:

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n external regulator isn't going to help that at all, you'll need a smaller alternator pulley to spin the alternator faster to help that.

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And then belt tension becomes a critical issue - how easy is this to deal with?

calum] wrote:

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o install an external voltage regulator

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Wow - interesting info - Now you can do this any car?  Not just a 70's Chrysler? 

Wouldn't the alternator have a voltage regulator on it already?  And this is supposed to control the voltage coming off the alt at idle when the voltage otherwise wouldn't be up to snuff?

sedate wrote:

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calum] wrote:

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n external regulator isn't going to help that at all, you'll need a smaller alternator pulley to spin the alternator faster to help that.

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And then belt tension becomes a critical issue - how easy is this to deal with?

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In what regard?  Of course you'll need to put a shorter belt on.  Are you wondering about the surface area of the pulley being too small for the belt to get sufficient friction?  If so take a look at this pic. That's my alternator pulley, it's as small as it could be made and still allow a socket to fit over the bolt that holds it on.  I don't have any problems with belt tension.

sedate wrote:

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calum] wrote:

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o install an external voltage regulator

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Wow - interesting info - Now you can do this any car?  Not just a 70's Chrysler? 

Wouldn't the alternator have a voltage regulator on it already?  And this is supposed to control the voltage coming off the alt at idle when the voltage otherwise wouldn't be up to snuff?

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I can't say for certain, but one of these regulators should work with any alternator, so long as it doesn't have an internal regulator. 

Yes, all alternators have voltage regulators.  Some are in the alternator, some are external and some are in the PCM.  If it's internal to the alternator then you wont have the field wire, just the 12 volt and the output from the alternator.  And some don't even have the 12 volt. 

No the regulator doens't some how boost the alternators output at idle if the alternator isn't up to snuff.  "An external regulator isn't going to help that at all, you'll need a smaller alternator pulley to spin the alternator faster to help that"  A voltage regulator, regulates the voltage output of the alternator.  That's it. 

Could we get back on topic please...I am in desperate need of a HO alternator company now...could you guys keep recommending them and if possible leave contact information or a website I can look at thanks.

I have tried HO alternators.com and no reply

Any contact up to date contact info on this iraggi guy?

I called HO Alternators and Philip said that all he can do is 170 amps with around 80 amps at idle.  Sorry cant find that sheet where I wrote it down.  Now Dominik Iraggi has a 180 amp / 115 amp idle on ebay for half the cost.  Now haemphyst in another post this is what you calculated:

The 1000 watt amps are digital, yes? 80% efficient. So, 2000w/.8=2500 watts in (sub amps, only)

320W/.6=533 watts in (highs amp)

2500+533=3033 watts in / 14.4v = 210A

That's what you need just for the amplifiers. The Si also had power stuff - windows, defroster, A/C, fog lamps(?)...

My 07 Civic, just to run, with NO accessories turned on, requires about 10A, high-beams bump that to 32A, A/C bumps it to 70A (with the fan on high), turn signals, brake lights, and defroster running, too? I can easily go to 100 to 110A with the stereo just turned on, and playing at a reasonable volume.

Not being completely familiar with the 93 Si, I can't say you COULDN'T stuff a large case GM 300A model under the hood; I know in my 86 Si, there was PLENTY of space for a bumped up alternator.

Call over to HOAlternators, 866-446-8878, and ask for Phillip at extension 106. That guy knows his stuff! I'm betting they can make, or even have on the shelf, a bracket mod for your car.
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With those numbers being at max power would you go with the same setup and just tone down the subs a bit or should I cut my losses and ditch one sub and one amp...

If I only had the 170 amp how much power / loudness potential will I lose?

I hope this makes sense to you guys.  Im in a rush and did not reread