irritating whining engine noise

Alternator, motor, road, or what every you want to call it noise. It's driving me nuts. I know there are many post on this subject and a lot of very long post at that. By looking through them it seems that it always end with not getting rid of the noise. I also now see that Pioneer has some issue.

What I would like to know is anyone has tried one or both of two things.

1-Has anyone tried rapping or encasing their RCA cables in 1/2" or 1" round padding (kinda like the stuff some antennas are rapped with) to keep them away from any sources of power. Seems like when a person moves their RCA cables one way or another the noises usually gets worse or better but never gone.

2-Has anyone tried using line converters instead of RCA cables from the HU to the amp. then switching to RCA's and using the shortest RCA cable to the amp.
I had a factor HU in my Titan and I didn't want to change it out. I at first didn't like the looks of a double din radio bezel an didn't want to loose or hassle with the steering wheel controls. I did finally end up installing a Pioneer AVIC-D3 w/ Siruis, Bluetooth, Ipod.
At the start of this very expensive journey I used the factory HU and it had NO PREOUTS. What I ended up doing was use close to 200 ft. yes close to 200' of speaker wire in trying to get everything all connected and still be accessible and look good. First I decided I only wanted to use component speakers. I decided to put 2-10" Kicker Comp VR's under the back seat down firing because I new kickers sounded pretty good and because I needed a low profile sub (about 5"). So my problem was what to do with 2-amps and 4-crossovers. Because of the power I was running I didn't want to use the factory speaker wires and chose to run new. I went to a scrap metal place and bought a 1/8" X 4' X 2' piece of aluminum and cut it to fit from about 4" below the back seat down following the contour of the floor side to side. I mounted both amps, all the crossovers, 2-line out converters, and a fuse block for the amps and 2-1.5 Farad caps. I ran new speaker wire down BOTH SIDES of the truck. 2-wires from the dash for tweeters, 2-wires from the front door mids, 4-wires from the back door tweeters and mids to behind the back seat between both amps where I had mounted the crossovers. Then of course 4-short pieces of wires from the crossovers to the amps. Researching I found out I could open up the factory HU and by using some ends cut off some RCA cables that it was possible to solder them to a part of the board and get my preouts that way. It sound like it would be a pain in the *** plus I didn't have the confidence to do it that way. Instead at the back of the HU I cut the 4 speaker wires in the factory wiring harness and tied in new speaker wire at a heavier gauge and ran them to behind the back seat. I picked up to line out converters a Bestbuy, mounted them next to one of the amps and wired in the 4-wires from the HU. I had some cheap maybe 2' to 3' long RCA cables and plugged them into my Alpine 4 channel amp. from the preouts on the first amp I ran another short RCA cable to my Alpine mono amp. I started off running a 4 gauge from the battery right next to half of my speaker wires to the fuse block in back. Out of the fuse block with 8 gauge around everything to the amps and caps mounted on each side of the truck. Using a couple 5' pieces of 8 gauge right to the top center of it all to ground using the child seat safety hook. Later because I was sucking so much power I ran another 4 gauge positive right next to the other one and double up with 8 gauge grounds as well. All that equals about 200' speaker wire, 50' of 4 gauge for power, 30' 0f 8 gauge for ground, and 3 short RCA cable. The best part it could beat your skin numb and rattle your brain to give you a pounding headache WITH NO ONE ONCE OF IRRITATING WHINING ENGINE NOISE.
Now the worst part and a $1000 worth of speakers blown and in the trash can I'm forced to put in a new aftermarket HU so I can have better control over the Hi and Low pass filters and make sure the lows go to the subs and everything else to the doors. I put in a Pioneer AVIC-D3 with all the bells and whistles. AND AT NO EXTRA CHARGE TO ME THE NEW HU CAME WITH A IRRITATING WHINING ENGINE NOISE TAHT CAN'T BE ELIMINATED NO MATTER HOW HARD I TRY.

If you made it this far here something I found. Kicker amps you can set/wire to either accept Hi-level inputs or Low-level inputs so you can use RCA cables or speaker wire. It's nice because the line out converters I bought had to be adjusted and it was a pain in the *** to do. With the Kicker amp all you adjust is your gain, bass boost, and crossover.

Great site. Thank you

Sitting back, posting on a sat night for the first time in years, I have a late April Fools day joke that this thread made me think of.

Pioneer redesigns circuit to solve noise issues related to their head units...... maybe next year......

-------------
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

So tell me what exactly do you think is the first step?

Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.   One of 2 things caused the problem.  Either a power wire came in contact with the shield of the RCA cable.  Or more likely, an amplifier's power wire and RCA cable was connected before the ground connection was made.  As soon as the power connection is made, the amp begins looking for ground.  Wehn the RCA cable is connected, the amp thinks that it has found ground.  Essentially, it has found it, but only 3 amps worth.  There is a 3 amp extremely fast acting fuse in the path of the RCA shield inside of the radio. 

First of all when you said "If people would follow the first step in the installation instructions, it would not be a problem" I figured you would have something to say other then the obvious.
Second I guarantee you that 99% of these over priced crooked car audio stores installers couldn't tell you how to fix the problem let alone know the cause of it.
Lastly if it wasn't for nubbies and/or Mr. Knows Everything hitting an unsolvable problem and/or just looking for a few options about something then there is no need for these sites. I take you statement "If people would follow the first step in the installation instructions, it would not be a problem. I HOPE and PRAY that they do not change it" that your basically calling me a dumb ***. I will admit that there are many people that obviously shouldn't be attempting to do something they shouldn't. And yes some of the questions can be obvious to you or I and to others unanswerable. But at the same time no matter what a person tries to do they always have to learn how to do it first and that's where sites like this help them to do that. You know I've searched and searched for an answer to why I'm getting the noise and this is the first time I've come across a possible solution . I read most all the threads on this site and I definitely could have missed what you said to try in other post but there are some pretty long ones on here to go through. Basically what I'm saying and if you meant your statement how I took it then all the Mr. Knows Everything need to remember at one time they didn't know *** at one point in there lives either an that someone had to help them learn as well. So help them out and share your knowledge with the. If you didn't mean your statement how I took it then my apologies and either way thank you for the links.

I was answering Forbidden's post.  It had NOTHING at all to do with you or anything you said.  I hope they do not fix it because I repair a few of them a week. 

I do apologize for mistaking your statement. Don't mean to be defensive but I see a lot of subtle insulting remarks and some that are just flat mean on every forum I've been on, some worse then others it all depends on the topic. Again I apologize and thank you for the great link. There's a lot of useful information there. I spent hours reading it yesterday. I learned a lot of stuff I didn't know and answered a few questions I've had in the past. I'd recommend it to everyone.