Printer Friendly Forum Posts - what sub to go with?

Hello I am rebuilding my system and looking to go with a single 12" sub. I have a RF 1500 mono amp that is 1 ohm stable. I am looking at the 12W7, RE MX 12, Orion HCCA, Audioque 12 or am open to any other suggestions. I want something that will sound well but when I turn the bass up I have the ability to make it hard to breathe!

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-under_lucky-

i have one 12w6 and its rediculous in my truck. i imagine the w7 would be crazy

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Is the w6 in a vented or sealed box? What amp do you have to it?

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-under_lucky-

Of those choices I'd use the JL first, the RE or Audioque as second choice, and the Orion as a door stop.

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Is the RE pretty equivalent to the JL?

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-under_lucky-

james.jaros wrote:

Is the RE pretty equivalent to the JL?

No. In my opinion the JLW7 outclasses anything from RE.

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Have u looked into fi audio subs there build in las Vegas and there some of the best subs the btl subs come in 12,15,18, I think there all like 2000rms I wanted some but really can't get them rIghr now

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Kandycaddy33

i have a 12w6 in custom ported enclosure with a 500 watt alpine amp. its crazy. you could try two of those also. and try the measurements from the JL site

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The W7 is the way to go. I had 1 W7 with a slash series 500 watt amp and that was awesome. Now I have 2 W7s with a 1000 watt slash series amp.

What's the big deal with that over priced jl audio stuff?

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Kandycaddy33

Most here are true SQ nuts. They will take any SQ driver over one that is louder but sacrifices some SQ, just about every time. I disagree with the JL W7 outclassing everything RE makes. The MX and XXX line from RE are very clean, loud subs.

What did this guy say he was looking for? "I want something that will sound well but when I turn the bass up I have the ability to make it hard to breathe"!

I would go with RE. It fits the bill of this build better IMO. BTW with the amp that is being used JL could refuse warranty of the subwoofer. It falls in the black zone of there power chart by 500rms.

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posted_image

which person. the w6 or w7 with 500 watts?

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pcana11 wrote:

which person. the w6 or w7 with 500 watts?

that was for James.Jaros and just a little FYI. JL says warranty is void if you go over there rated recommended table. For the W7 12 that is max 1000rms. They also do not cover burnt coils. Will the W7 handle more than 1000rms? yeah it will, but should something happen to the speaker your warranty is void.

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posted_image

yea, i didnt know if you were talking about me and the w6 or him. mine is rated right around 500 i do believe

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I agree I have heard some re subs before and they sounded like they were good all around. You see my goal is to have total sq but some raw power too. I have already installed 100 sq ft of fatmat and bought component speakers for up front. When the money allows I plan on getting some 6x9s for the back as well. Do you think one re mx 12 will have enough umph to give me good sound but also get stuff shaking if I feel like it? Its price is far more attractive than the xxx

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-under_lucky-

Really you can't go wrong with either an RE MX or JL W7. Both will get the job done. One a bit more SQ. The other a bit more SPL. Even then it really comes down to enclosure design.

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posted_image

I have decided to go with the RE MX 12. Im going to build a box that will be about 2 to 2.25 cu ft tuned to 33. Do you think this will work well?

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-under_lucky-

There recommended air space is NET. So you want to ADD port displacement, driver displacement and any bracing to that 2 cube for your Gross volume. 15 square inches of port area per cubic foot. So for a 2 cu. ft. enclosure you will want 30 inches of port area. If you need help with figuring what the GROSS enclosure needs to be. You can hit me up here or PM. Just need your max dimension to start working figures for you. If you want to contact RE directly you can contact greg@usamps.com for any further help with the enclosure specs.

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posted_image

Ok, I measured the trunk I have a maximum height of 14" a maximum width of 38" and depth is not a problem. I have been told many times that going slightly larger such as 2.25 would be better than 2.0. I was running some thoughts and came up with a box that is 25" wide 14" high 16" deep with a port at one end that is 1" wide and 11" deep. All measurements are coming from the outer most dimensions of the box and figuring in for the .75" thick board and considering an additional brace of .75" where the sub will mount. What do you think? I believe this will give me roughly a 2.3 inthernal volume tuned at 32

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-under_lucky-

Thats only 12.5 sq inches of port area. You need WAY MORE! 1 inch port would be noisy as all get out. Port would only be if your height is 14" minus your width of MDF at .75 top and bottom, would make your port height 12.5" x 1" = 12.5 sq. inches of port area. Thats not even enough port area for 1 cube. You figure sq inches of port area by height and width of port not length. Length is for tune. Let me run some figures and i will find a workable solution.

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posted_image

Ok sounds good I appreciate the help. I have never built a ported box, only sealed boxes. I am hoping to go and get all the boards cut and possibly put together tomorrow. The local wood shop only charges an additional $10 to have all the boards cut to size and since I dont have a truck to throw a board into this is perfect for me!

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-under_lucky-

RE MX12 Optimal 2.0 cu. ft. NET. Tune 33Hz

If you intend to double plate the front sub wall(highly recommended). Outside dimentions would be 32"W x 14H X 16.25"L. Port 2.5"W X 12.5"H X 34"L

Figures based on .75" material with front wall double plated(sub wall) 1.5" thick

NET= 2.0 cu. ft.
+Driver displacement = .19 cu. ft.
+Port displacement = 0.61478 cu. ft.
+port divider wall = 0.16005
+additional bracing allowance = 0.124 cu. ft.

GROSS total volume = 3.08883 cu. ft.

This enclosure if ported out the front with the sub the port will need to be folded. A good guide to folding the port can be found here. Box building hints and port folding..

If these dimensions will not fit through your opening let me know.

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posted_image

Ok, those dimensions are sweet. I am figuring the port now but would like to double check my idea with you. I want the sub centered on the 32" L face with the port at one end of that same face. The port should then be 2.5" W and should be 13.75" with a 90 degree bend that would then extend another 21.5" along the 32" face. Is this correct?

32"L x 16.25"W X 14"H. Port 2.5"W X 12.5"H X 34"L

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-under_lucky-

If those dimension I gave will fit. I can sketch it up for you.

With the outside dimensions I gave, you will be able to get the enclosure inside the trunk right?

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posted_image

Yes I am 95% sure and I could also just go through the back seat if I had too they both fold down and have plenty of room. I would greatly appreciate it.

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-under_lucky-

Here you go. I would make sure it will fit 100% before having the wood cut. Easier to change dimensions now rather then once it is put together.

RE MX12 Optimal 2.0cu.ft NET Ported Enclosure. 33 Hz

BTW is this not drawn to scale posted_image

But the measurements are correct.

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posted_image

Awesome! I really appreciate it. I will double check the measurements today after work and will let you know how it goes either today or tomorrow. After this I will just have to get the sub! LOL I am doing things as I can afford to. Wont be too long though.

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-under_lucky-

j.reed wrote:

BTW is this not drawn to scale But the measurements are correct.

I made a small mistake. Caught it this morning after a bit of sleep, that i sent you the wrong Image. The port wall Inside should be longer Instead of 15.75" it should be 19". If you leave it as 15.75" it will make Fb 34.8Hz. Thats a bit too high. I wish I would have caught this last night. Very sorry. I loaded the pic to photobucket and then found the mistake. I fixed it but i sent the wrong image with the shorter port. Here it is correct one. This time i know i got the right one.

RE MX12 Ported 2.0cu.ft. NET. Fb 33Hz

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posted_image

No problem at all. I actually had a mishap in making the box today. I called that local wood store and gave them the dimensions of all the boards I needed and they said no problem we can cut them square. I picked them up after work then started working only to find that none of the boards were square. Some were off over an 1/8th inch. I had to take them all back then the guy who cut them said it was impossible for them to cut square boards cuz the bearings were bad in their table saw. They ended up giving me the money back but now I have to find a new place that can do that for me. I live in a small town and there are not a ton of places to choose from is the problem. But, I do have another place in mind so hopefully tomorrow I can give them all the new dimensions. Thanks again!

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-under_lucky-

Not a problem at all. Most of us here are here to help or to gain knowledge. We are here because we have something in common. The love for audio.

One thing I do a lot to save from pulling a trailer is to go to Home Depot or Lowes. Knowing my measurements i will have them cut the MDF down for me so that i can more easily transport it. Usually just cut into a 4' by 4' Makes it nice to have smaller pieces when cutting it on my table saw and to transport. I don't have $3000 table saw and cutting full 4' x 8' sheets by your self is not much fun.

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posted_image

I had the box built and it sounds good but... My brother has a xxx 12 and it is way better. He is using a us amp that I believe is 1000 rms at 1 ohm. He also had his box built 1/2 cuft larger than spec. Is this a good idea should I do it with the MX? I am also thinking of upgrading from my Fosgate 1000. Any suggestions? I would like to stay around $350 or less as far as Ebay prices go. Thanks!

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-under_lucky-

The XXX is about twice the sub of an MX, with twice the price tag too. There is a reason it sounds better, it is better. More power would help some for sure, but it will not gain you much output to the ear. It may gain you a hear able difference at lower freqs though and that may be what your wanting. Another huge difference between the 2 could simply be the vehicle they are in.

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posted_image

Any suggestions on a better amp for this sub?

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-under_lucky-

Did you go with the dual 1ohm or 2ohm MX?

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posted_image

Dual 2ohm

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-under_lucky-

I was cruising the bay earlier and saw a used US Amps Xterminator 400x that would get the job done. Really anything of good quality and put out your 1500rms at 1 or 4ohms. As I said before though, it will not really gain you much or any hear able difference. You may pick up some in the lower freq range and on a mic it would make a difference. In the vehicle you may gain 3db or so.

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posted_image

Ok, you are right the xxx is much better. So, I sold my mx to a friend who gave me a great price with the box almost what I had into it. I also sold my amp. I recently heard a w7 12 that sounded amazing compared to my mx. The guy had it in a Taurus I have an 08 Sebring. He only had the amp and sub nothing done to the inside of the car... I have found a 12w7 for 375. Is there any I can ask a huge favor? Could you draw up one more box for me for the w7 with the same limitaions on dimensions? I really appreciate the help. I was also wondering what amp to go with the w7. I was thinking about the JL 500/1

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-under_lucky-

Yeah i can do it tonight. The enclosure should be .25 smaller than what you had. I would look at the JL1000/1 if you got the money. That way you can get everything you would ever need out of the sub.

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posted_image

JL 12w7 slot ported 1.75 cu.ft. NET FB=32Hz

You will want to mount it to the outside of the double baffle for it to have sufficient mounting depth. Sorry it took me a while to get it done for you. Been pretty busy lately.

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posted_image