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No wires to begin with!

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=12252
Printed Date: May 28, 2024 at 11:13 PM


Topic: No wires to begin with!

Posted By: QuinnX1
Subject: No wires to begin with!
Date Posted: April 15, 2003 at 4:24 PM

Here we go. I bought a truck this weekend 87 K-5 Blazer, it has no wires for the radio. I would like to safely run a ground, constant, and switch. No need for the other stuff I always use amps. Now, I know how to use a tester and use the existing fuses, but what is the best way to do this.



Replies:

Posted By: jpworley
Date Posted: April 15, 2003 at 5:01 PM

If you are going to run amps it is better to use battery cable both Pos and Neg to a fuse block / splitter.  If you use more than one amp get a multiple fuse block.  This allows you to fuse the amp(s) accordingly.  Also if you are using multiple amps you can put in different fuses for differrent amps at the fuse block. 

The deck can be powered from your regular fuse block.  Remember to run a 28 gauge wire from the head end to the amps.  Normally a blue wire (from the deck) that will turn off / on the amps when your deck is turned on. 

You can also run voltage from there if needed for crossovers, pre amps etc.



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JP




Posted By: esmith69
Date Posted: April 16, 2003 at 2:54 PM

Whoa!  28 gauge wire!  Haven't used that stuff in a while!  Typically what we use is 18-20 gauge primary wire cuz it's not as fragile as smaller stuff, but big enough to get the job done.  As for the remote turn on connections, be aware that most head units cannot support the turn on of more than 2 external components. so if you get maybe 2 amps, an eq, and a crossover or something then you'll need to run some relays to safely turn on all the components.

When you said "ground, constant, and switch" did you mean "switch" like the +12 volt switched connection?  or did you mean an actual switch?

Accessory (switched) wire can be found in the ignition switch harness.  It's supposed to be an orange wire.  +12 volt constant is red, but be aware that if you tap in to the constant connection there at the igniition harness, you might blow the ignition fuse.  Better to run a fused wire directly to the battery.  Ground connection can be any bare metal behind the dash that tests as a good ground using a DMM.

Even if there's no radio currently in there, there should be some wires still there.  They might be tucked back in there somewhere, or I suppose they might not be there, but it'd be easier to use them than to run all new wires.  The original wiring is constant= orange, switched=yellow, ground=black.





Posted By: speedwayaudio1
Date Posted: April 16, 2003 at 3:26 PM
i never use oem wiring at all. I make all my own circuits with good wire. my systems in no way have any thing to do with the cars circuits. the battery is the only shared thing. some times not even then. I really like to use a 1 wire 200a alt to a seperate batt. factory stuff sucks they use the cheapest crap they can. run your hu off the batt too. don't use fuses, use circuit breakers. much better to work with. never buy fuses again too,

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Big Dave





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