amp hook up

Hey guys, hows it going?

I got a Clarion 765 Flip screen deck, Just recently i wanted my subs back in, so i went and got a new Amp and hooked evreything up the way it should be, Now after i hook it all up and go to turn in on i get no sound. The Amp lights up indicating it has power, The overload or other warning lights are not on. I wanted to know if anyone else has this deck and have had the same problem. I tried another brand new amp so i know forsure its not the amp. The options on the deck dont give me any option for the sub. Only thing close is 1 option for Non-Fader Volume, which i have turned up and still nothing.. I was looking online and found this


Link for Processor

Now i shouldn't need this to hook up my sub right?

When i go to option and click "Audio EXT" all i get is one option


Now online i found this picture, how do i get this so i can hear my subs

I would use a meter and check the voltageon the amp first, use the ground probe direct on the amp ground then check power and remote to make sure its getting 12volts, then use a portable amp/speaker to test to see if you are getting signal to the amp, Radio Shack sells these cheap, once you know you have the signal to the amp, unhook the speakers you are using and try an old/or test speaker on the speker output leads, if no sound then its the amp, if you do have sound the subs need to be checked.

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Chadillac

Ight bare with me, I have no clue how to run my volt meter.but here we go

When my truck is on but not running(ACC) i get 12.6V at the amp+ 10.6V at remote wire but goes to 12V when truck starts. I got 85-86MA from the Red & Whire RCAs from back of the deck and anywhere from 2Ohms until my meter overloads when i turn the sound up, so there is power/signal flowing thru the RCAs. The thing about the amp is that it cant be it. At first a bought a 1200watt MTX jackhammer amp then returned it cause i thought it was the amp and exchanged it for a new one. After i hook it up it still dosent work so i returned it for a Pioneer 1200Watt so unless all 3 brand new amps have been toast i doubt its that.

That leads me to my sub, its a 12" MTX, how can i check that? And if a sub blows or whatever there should still be a pulse on the sub and just sound distorted right?

Thanks for any help!

Any or all subwoofers can act different, remove the subwoofer from the box and check the voice coil/or coils if its a DVC, using a multimeter on ohm scale check, your rated ohm should be on the sub if you dont already know, so lets say for example its a 4ohm sub your meter should read anywhere from 3.4 to 4.4ohm if the sub is good every meter will also have a variance, a blown sub usually wont give you a reading or it would be a crazy # like 159.9ohms, once again its just an example, hope this helps.   

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Chadillac

Hey, Thanks alot man. Found out it was the sub.. Weird tho cause last time i unhooked it, i thought it was fine, pumped hard and sounded good. I went and checked OHM and got 0. Thats why i wasent sure i was doing it right, but i was, took a older kicker CVR and tested it and came back 3.8 ish. Using that till i can afford a Dub7, or now, any personal suggestions of subs you like? or anyone else

I like to read threads like this.  Good  ol fashioned troubleshooting, and I didn't  get bored. 

edited to add:   oh yeah, your subs suggestion question is still up.....

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

Ive always liked Alpine, MTX, Kicker, and Pioneer, there are a lot of options but try to buy one that your thinking a head about, like one to match if you decide to add more or change your box, subs that well work well for the air space you'll need, also if you might add another sub try to get a current model that way if the company changes the look(cosmetic) it wont be hard to get a match. Help this helps.

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Chadillac