kicker cvrs

So heres my box and subs

https://m1258.photobucket.com/albumvi...l?o=0&newest=1

As of right now I have 2 kicker comp 10"s wired to a hifonics 1000.1d mono block 1000 watt amp. and well I'm looking for a little more. I was looking into the 10" cvrs DVC 2ohm. I would most likely have to add a ring spacer so the vrs will fit. My question is will the vrs be much of a difference from my comps that I have now?

Thanks!!

There's my box sorry about the mess up

Budget?

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Just learning.

My budget isn't very much maybe $250 I can get the kicker vrs for $80 a piece and I wouldn't have to change my box by much maybe a 1/3 inch spacer ring.

theres my box

There won't be much sound difference. Go with whatever you want.

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Just learning.

So then what if I were to create 2 custome separate boxes maybe to fit a 12" under the seat would I gain anything? More bass?

you only have so much airspace under your seat. if your subs are not matched with the right amount of airspace that they need then nothing will ever sound right.


its not about size or amount of speakers, its about how well each piece works together as a whole system. that box might have 1.5Ft^3 total to work with and that's a generous estimate. so finding a set of subs that are suited for that amount of airspace is what you need to do. even if you take a sub out and just use one good sub instead of two low quality subs you may still come out ahead because the airspace will work better with the sub.



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Thanks Soundsecurity,
That's what my thought is is maybe just creating one box myself for a better quality sub. What do you suggest? I have already raised the seat so there is more room than the original height. The long box I have now goes from 6" high, by 12" in length to 4" in height all the way across to the other sub were it is 6" high by 12" wide. So it's built like two separate small boxes but are connected as one. We're the cutout section is for it to slide under my seat it's connected. The box in length is a total of 48". It kinda looks like this []___[]. We're the "[]" are my subs. And the "___" is my running length. The "[]" is 6" high by 12" and the "____" or cross section is 4" high then there's another "[]" 6" by 12". The cut outs for my seat mount.

if the seat's raised then use that extra space. you have to measure the dimensions under the seat for how big you can build the box. account for the airspace that the wood will use and take out the displacement of the subwoofer you plan to use. this will give you an overall usable airspace and depending on how much extra space you end up with then you might still be limited to a single 10. i would hope for enough space for a decent 12 because thats what will probably make the biggest difference in sound for you. whatever you end up having to do i would definitely build the new box as a downfire box with the sub facing the floor and leave about a 2 inch gap between the sub and the floor.

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Yeah I'll measure it what equation or how would I figure it out mathematically? Maybe an example? Would maybe a sliver box downfireing, a 12" or a 10" ?

the way i would do it would be to measure a different volume each time you have to change dimensions. like how your box now has two big pieces on each end and a skinny part in between, all you have to do is measure each section you have to make by itself, subtract the volume that the wood will use up ( this will depend on what thickness of wood you will use) and finally once you have the volume of each part you just add them together to make a final total volume. you will still have to factor in how much volume the sub will take up too once it goes into the box. when you are trying to work with small boxes the volume of the subwoofer itself can make or break how it sounds. if you dont account for that then it could sabotage your design from the very start.

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That makes sense I was working on measuring the box I have today and figured, jus break it down into three different numbers and add. Do you think it would make sense to jus have one 12" or 2? Or work with maybe some 10" vr? Downfire?I know it's personal preference but maybe theres even another brand out there that's better?

loudnoise123 wrote:

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Do you think it would make sense to jus have one 12" or 2? Or work with maybe some 10" vr? Downfire?I know it's personal preference but maybe theres even another brand out there that's better?

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it makes sense to go with what you have enough space for. without knowing how much space you have available then its a shot in the dark trying to tell you which would be better. there are tons of brands out there that are better than kicker. ive had good results with diamond audio D1's in a small sealed box. ive recently become a crossfire audio dealer and its the best i have personally heard so far in a small sealed box. so there is lots to choose from you just have to make sure that it is matched up with what you have.

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Cool that helps me narrow down a sub for my needs, I think I might go with making a box like this

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_044FTX112/Q-Customs-Single-12-Factory-fit-Subwoofer-Enclosure.html?tp=129


Or going with two on my 60 side on the 60/40 bench Seat

https://www.supercrewsound.com/97f150ecdual.html

If the subs were in the same box do you recommend seperate chambers?

the single 12 box will probably be your better option.

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Sweet! I know I have already asked but what kind of sub would work? Was it the ones you mention earlier? I have never heard of them and I'll have to look at my local audio shop.i would most likely make a box that's 6 1/2 in tall by 12in wide and maybe 45-46 1/2 I length?

a box as big as you plan on building would give you about 1.5 cubic feet if you used 1/2 inch wood to build it. a single 12 typically wants about 1 cubic foot to work well but thats just average. some use more and some use less. when you take out the little bit of space that the sub itself will take up you will be left with around 1.3 cubic feet. look at different sub specs and find a sub that is recommended to use that much air.

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Alright well I was just looking over my box again and the reason why it's 4 in in the cross section is cause my tranny kinda sticks up out of the floor So that cancels out the 6.5" height box. Got any suggestions? Or could I work with maybe jus raising my seats more?

you can raise the seat but only if you can do it safely. but you can build the box 4 inches tall and use the extra space where it would be 6 inches tall to mount the sub and face it towards the floor. the gap it leave between the sub and the floor should be perfect. that is how that Q logic box you showed me was built. you can take that design and modify it to be as big as possible while still fitting under the seat and that should be just enough for a decent 12 to fit.

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How would I fit the sub if the box was only 4" in height? I saw on that q logic that it's drilled out or something on the inside were the magnet suppose to be? I remesured the larger under seat portion and I could only go to about 35.5 inches,in length if I built the box 35.5" in length and 14" width by 4" in height it still wouldn't be enough. Its only 1.15cu ft without puttin in the displacement. The seats already raised 1" it's already pretty darn high. I don't think I could get it up higher without it being safe.

the mounting depth on most small 12" subs isnt usually that much. if you plan it out carefully then you can make it work. the only problem might come if the sub you chose has a vent hole in the back of the sub, you want to leave some space for that port hole to breathe. even if you have to cut a 1/2" spacer ring to make the sub fit it will still be better than having a miss-matched sub and box. it will probably take a little bit of research to find the perfect sub but it is out there.

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so the Qlogic box had a vent whole in the back? or would it be the sub that required a vent hole for it to fit? wouldnt that let air out? then it wouldnt be completely sealed. i calculated the box i have now for my 2 10" kicker comps and it was somewhere around 1.75 cu ft. idk if i did that right but if i were to calculate for a new box i would L x W x H. so if i made a box that was 35.5" Length x 14" width x 4" height then i would divide the answer by 1728 and it would equal 1.15 cu ft? the only reason the length is kinda small is when i measured under my seat thats all i could fit. i was looking into these subs

https://www.frys.com/product/5634871?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

they only need .88 cu ft and from what my calculations said it would have 1.15 cu ft would that be enough to give me some deep bass? they are only 4 5/8 mounting depth but im not sure if i will get what i want?

no the vent hole im talking about is on the back of the subwoofer itself. it has nothing to do with the actual box except that you need to have enough depth inside the box so you dont block this vent. the box will still be sealed. not all subs have this vent though.

your method of finding the cubic footage is correct but you have to make sure you account for the thickness of the wood. this site has a box volume calculator HERE that might help you.

to find out if you have enough depth for any given sub all you need to do is take your overall box height, 4" in your case, and subtract the thickness of your building material, which should be .5", and you get 3.5" of mounting depth available. if your sub is deeper than that then you either need a deeper box or a spacer ring. if your sub has a rear vent then i would leave at least .25" extra between the back of the sub and the box so that the sub can breathe better.

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Awesome thanks! Looks like I'm going to start building soon! Just gotta find the right subwoofer for the job. Will I run into trouble with the 1/2 in Mdf over the 3/4 Mdf?

you just have to be more careful with shooting screws into 1/2 inch MDF. you need to pre-drill every hole or you will split the wood. you have to worry about the same thing even with 3/4 MDF so its not much different. also you might need a small brace from top to bottom to make sure the bigger pieces of the box dont flex.

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Oh okay would it be beneficial to use the 3/4 Mdf for the height sides so they would be stronger? Or would that be mixing thicknesses? Which will mess up my calculations?

not necessary to use any 3/4 MDF. you can if you want but i would be trying to save as much airspace as possible.

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Okay coooooo!! I'll most likely go with 1/2 anyways. Would the Polk audio subwoofer in a custom box I plan on making give me anything more than what I have with my 2 10"s? I jus don't want to buy the sub for $300 and then have nothing more than what I have now? I'm just trying to cover all my bases sorry if it kinda repeats!!

unfortunately i cant tell you with any kind of certainty that one system will be louder than the other. changing your system is always a gamble, unless ofcourse you so from a single 10 to a pair of 18's, but comparing two 10's to a single 12 is a little harder. it totally depends on the quality of the install.

i can tell you that you should see a slight gain because you will be sending all of your power to one sub instead of sharing it between two subs. this is also why i recommended you to use a downfire design so that the bass can hit against the solid floor instead of being muffled by the seat.

what polk sub are you buying for $300? that seems really high to me for a single 12

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That is true, it kinda hard to do threw the Internet. Haha. Yeah That weird because yesterday I slide my subs out from under my seat and forgot I had left them out and they didn't bump at all then when they were under my seat they bumped. And with a box built to specs, and the right sub downfirw it should be golden. And yeah that sub is really shallow thats why I thought it would have a good chance at working with my install but ill have to do more research. I could most likely find a cheaper one.

i would always go for a normal sub rather than a shallow sub if at all possible shallow subs arent known for their earth-shattering bass. but with anything as long as your box is a good match for the sub then it should be just fine.

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Yeah I figured. I still I'm looking online for a sub that not shallow mount there ain't much but there gotta be something. So it's not so much the deepness of the box but airspace? Cause the box I would build would be more of a lengthy box instead of deep.

yea the physical dimensions dont matter so much as the actual net airspace.

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Okay cool do you know of any subs that are able to fit in a shallow mount but good for deep bass? I got that 1000 watt mono block hifonics amp would it push any sub?

this is probably one of your best bets.

memphis shallow mount sub

the dual 4 ohm coils will match nicely with your amp. and it fits in your box. i was going to suggest the kicker CVT even though i cant stand kicker, but its even too deep to fit in your box.

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yeah i looked at the local shops for that sub and i couldnt find it...i mean how much more would i have to raise my seat to get a 12" confortably under that seat? from doing research most of the shallow subs are for non deep bass more of just a vibration, but thats just what ive heard.

your box would have to be at least 6 inches deep because most regular subs are about 5 inches in mounting depth.

take a factory bolt out and go to the hardware store and fine a longer bolt with that same thread pattern. buy some flat iron and cut them to length and stack them until you get the height you need, drill holes for the bolt in each stack and bolt them in place.

if the seat isnt 100% solid after you do this then take them back out or you might be able to add extra bolts through the back of the cab for extra stability.

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Yeah I did that with some metal square washers that I had raised it about an inch but not much I might even change it to metal plates and stack em like you were saying. I might be able to add another inch which would make it 6" where the tranny pops up and 7" where the deep spot is. So I could run a 5.25 depth sub, downfire with an inch of clear space from the floor. I did some research on the 1/2 to 3/4 mdf and alotta people say bracing would I run the brace length wise and would that cause less airspace?

for bracing just use a few 1" wooden dowels in the middle of the box from top to bottom and screw them in. 3 or 4 pieces should be enough and the airspace they would take up is very very small so i wouldnt worry about it at all.

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aight got it the dowels are a great idea. i have been searching all over for a sub that will fit cant find anything so i did some more measurements tonight and right now where the tranny doesnt bump up from the floor to the bottom of the seat its 7", i could only measure out about 13.5" for width of the box and still 35" in length. Where the tranny is its about 4.5 almost 5". I could prolly make it 7.5" does that broaden my range of 12" subs? if so any suggestions?

That would leave me with a 6" mounting depth if I make it downfire with a 1" gap and also using .5 mdf. Is that correct?

lol, man you dont give up do you yea every little bit that you can raise the seat will help out. at some point though you might as well just build the seat into the box. build the box and put some pillows on top and mount the seatbelt brackets to the box.

a 6 inch mounting depth does broaden your options a little but you are still in the same category of smaller 12's. these kind of subwoofers will mostly give you about the same output given the amount of power you have on tap. plus, at some point, if you keep going bigger then your box will be too big for a single 12 sealed but still too small for two 12's or two 10's.

its understandable that you dont want to waste any money on something that may or may not give you more bass but that comes with the territory. there are simply too many variables that need to be measured to be able to tell you if you will win or lose. ive had many good and bad systems over the years, in fact im trying to figure out how to deal my own bass problems too. i took a gamble on whether or not i could stick a 15 in a small box because of space limitations and now im living to regret it. im stuck with the dilemma of needing space but wanting more bass too and at some point one of them will have to give.

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